markc

Hi Dee, no need to turn basin taps on, but it is a good way to lower the water level in the pipework to shower. Fitting isolator valves is easy with plastic because it’s all just cut and push fit.

If the shower is above the tank then closing the cold stop cock will stop water leaving the tank on the hot side, if you have a shower pump, turn the power off to that. Before cutting any pipes, turn the shower on to dump any pipe pressure.

It relates to the principal elevation - generally the front of the building that gets the postcode and therefore has a road running parallel (ish)

Hello and welcome, finding a plot can be hard work and demoralising but they are out there.

You don’t want to seal over fresh plaster because it needs to dry out. Once dry, if you are painting it then the mist coat acts like a primer to get hold of the plaster surface, not to seal it.

Why? What sort of loads are we talking? About 40 yrs ago I put one of the first sips floor houses up in Ideal Home Exibition, during the panel testing a 3mx3m panel had around 4tons in the centre and this was only supported around the edges. Point loads can be minimised with a little thought

Can be overhead or even just above floor is fixed to a fence or wall. Only needs to be buried if likely to be damaged by pedestrian or vehicular traffic.

+1

Hello and welcome

Ventilation, ventilation, ventilation, stick a living, breathing, cooking person inside a box wrapped with plastic and you are going to get damp and mould.

You could sister the joist one or both sides of the rafter, or double up as you say.

You do building work don't you? .. error, yes I do stuff. Could you have a look at my garden room, it's feeling damp and smells fusty. Apparently built and roofed around 10 years ago by a local builder - ledger board and dot and dab directly onto a retaining wall so ledger is rotten, PB is soaking wet and the concrete base goes right against the wall so nowhere for water to escape except under the flooring.

You have rafters holding the roof tiles etc. the lower framework is there to fix the plaster board to. The vertical pieces could well be supporting the roof, is there a wall below that point?

Diamond core drilling through a slab is really easy, you don’t need the rig unless you are doing large diameter holes. 50mm dia. By hand is no problem downward. Core bits have come down a lot in price but the quality does vary. Hilti bits have always been good.

Definitely don’t need a pit and power requirements are generally under 10amp so a nearby socket is ideal. Never fitted one but I have taken two out and had to cut the mast because the hole had been trimmed at min opening size so there wasn’t enough wiggle room to get it back out on the angle. For a standing lift, trim at 800 (less 2x half joist width) and 1000 in length the give you space to get the mast in.

That’s H&S gone mad. The risk assessment should have highlighted that the risk of injury moving, erecting and dismantling that scaffold is far greater than the risk having a much simpler staging.

Good morning and welcome, many will say funding is the key, but finding the plot or (old place to knock down) can be very difficult. I have been looking for 5+ years. Hopefully you drop on a great site and can crack on with it.

Good morning and welcome, we all start somewhere. Loads of info on here covered by previous topics and questions. Good luck and have fun.

I have always worked on eaves height being the tip of the slates or tiles etc. making it the top edge of lowest part of the actual roof.

Rip everything out and start fresh, false economy to work around what you have. if you kept the existing it would get blamed for everything that wasn’t right later on.

+1 I reckon the tile line is not fully grouted or sealed behind the screen rail allowing water to go behind the tiles

If it’s not big enough for a car but you could get a couple of motor bikes in there then you still have a petrol fire potential. If it’s not practical to get a wheeled vehicle through the opening then it can’t (surely not) be classed as a garage.

Any decent flexible tile adhesive should stick. What paint is it? If vinyl then you may find it will come away in sheets if you get behind it, if so peel it off where you are tiling, if it’s stuck well then tile over it.

LV cables are often shrouded but at 11kv, plus the transformer etc. shrouding is not practical (if it was further away you could erect a crash fence but again not possible in this case). It comes down to - how will you protect your employees and how will you protect the pole, cables, transformer etc.