tonyshouse

3g is the mainstream product in central and Northern Europe with good reason. extra sheet of glass in a more robust frame makes perfect sense

Bruno - Blow a fan heater on cold at it?

Insulate the house and keep the rads

Buy a roll of 100mm wide thin brass and glue it on I like route red in draught strips to the bottom edge of plinths and flat floors. consider brass angle for the corners

I turn the tray down or up 50 mm cover the edge with EML half on the blocks, half on the membrane and wet plaster to give hermetic seal.

= disastrous thermal bridging and cracking due to different materials in wall, plus nightmare to cut over top of floor beams

The cladding join, roof to wall will suck I water and rot! the whole thing is mad! Glass roof over the wood for me with overhang

Thermal bridging, or use bricks with same U-value, different materials = potential cracking Ptrsumr tray goes over bricks

tony likes it, which courses will the wall ties be in? where the inside if the tray flaps over the blockwork I pin or staple EML over it before wet plastering this works well at ceiling level or behind the skirting, slightly more concerned about a slip plane one course up and a crack developing. Escape route is to turn the tray 50mm down and fix 150 wide EML over it, 50mm of hermetically sealed to blocks above and below and anti cracking over it.

They produce heat at lower temperatures more efficiently. Best plan is to improve fabric insulation to the point that the radiators will work as low temperature emitters microbore is not so bigger problem but shifting heat around will require a good pump and clean pipes

In terms of the party wall act I think it will be a party wall, in legal terms it sounds like it is yours and so permission needed to attach to it.

Well past it’s sell by date redo it all

I worry about air leakage through the beam and block followed by infiltration into the room, cavity walls also leak. I would have poly on top of insulation, then combined air barrier, vb and dpm, then trap it behind presumed skirtings sealed at doors and corners

Roughneck mutt - now my favourite tool

You need to seamlessly join roof insulation to wall insulation, mine goes through the wallplate zone at 400mm thick - leave no gaps, cracks or as is more common complete misses

Sounds to me like you are building in a thermal bridge. If you can use insulating block for the wall above the floor then why not through the floor too? I would avoid aircrete above the floor, they tend to crack badly

Wiggly pipes where exposed, difficult to paint, cheaper, quieter, superior

Don’t touch the gas pipe, get a gas safe plumber bricks can then be removed up to under the lintel

Solenoid operated shutter will stop this or an iris shutter, you and millions of others have the same problem

I still would never use screws, too easy to make a mistake

The screws look OK must have happened since I retired, sorry

For joist hangers NEVER EVER USE SCREWS! The heads sheer off, need to use heavy duty twist nails buy a compressed air nailer cheapo ones are ok , never look back

Better off rendering to the underside of the slates, undercloaks drag water into the wall and parging which cracks and falls out. no need for verge ventilation generally, eaves and ridge do it all

3.5N should be OK especially as they are wider than 100mm the cold bridge through the sole plate may still allow condensation on top of the dpc , need to add outboard insulation to reduce that risk

Aerated concrete should work. The problem is with the wood as it is uninsulated and on top of something cold, at the outside face temperatures will be outdoor temperatures and so as this can be very cold condensation can happen. I recommend adding insulation across the dpc on the outside, if it was mine I would change the sole plates for 100x50 replacing the missing bit with pir