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TheBeliskner

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  1. Hertfordshire. The house has a full external render with wooden cladding on the top half. Roof is a bit of a weird design as it extends down past the ceiling of the house so we have the angle of the roof around the edges of rooms and windows have small flat roofs protruding out. No evidence of damp insulation when I've been fishing around in the walls.
  2. I've got an ThermaV Monoblock installed with a Hive thermostat and I'm beginning to think the hive is a bit crap and causing problems. Set temp is 18.5°C, as soon as it hits 18.4°C lots of energy getting the system up to temperature then 18.5°C and it's off again. It's wasting a bunch of energy. Does anyone have any suggestions? I've complained at hive for not giving any options for hysteresis so it can swing 0.5°C either side of the temperature target but they fed me some BS about the hive algorithm is the most efficient at maintaining a comfortable home temperature. I'd be willing to try just using the native LG controller but that doesn't seem to have any heating controls available. Can they be enabled again and if so how? Any suggestions for other thermostats that actually work properly? Thanks.
  3. I've not seen any evidence of air circulating behind the plasterboard, the sockets I've taken off are draught free so that's some small win then. Thanks for the advice. I think I'll lift the floor around the edges in the new year and seal up any gaps I find. When I get to refurbishing the bathroom next year I wasn't planning on pulling up the floor but I think I'll do it now so I can seal up the gaps. Might even make use of the opportunity to put in some insulation in the suspended floor and some underfloor heating. Busy year next year!
  4. I've no idea what that means exactly but I'm guessing you want to know how it's plastered. It appears to be dot and dab plasterboard onto the block work. What we didn't discover until after we moved in was that the extension was self build by a builder and we've found some oddities. There was a rat problem, the previous owners told us it was fixed but it wasn't, ultimately it was caused by unsealed redundant drains. There was also an old boiler that was bodge installed and the person who installed it denied having ever done it even though their name was on the paperwork and nobody could provide any invoice to prove who did it. Before we moved we knew there was no electrical certs but we planned to change a few things anyway so that was fine, when the electrician's came to do our work they described it as "builder electrics" with the only redeeming feature being that at least all the circuits had continuity. Poor airtightness seems like par for the course at this point.
  5. I've been considering lifting part of the floor to solve a few squeaky boards. It sounds like a might as well lift all of it and and break out the expanding foam?
  6. Hi, We live in a house that's half 1920's and half 2008. The old part of the house is great, no major issues, the new part has a fibre filled cavity wall with rendered concrete block outer and aerated concrete block inner. The house his fairly exposed at the top of a hill and it gets pretty damn windy. 2 upstairs rooms on the new end of the house are colder than the rest, even the downstairs room is a little colder but more manageable. It's certainly not loft insulation as there's 400mm up there. I had to drill a hole through the wall recently and as soon as I reached the cavity I could feel a fairly significant breaze coming through. I lifted a corner of carpet and put a hole through there too and I can feel the breeze under the floor too. Is it normal to have that much airflow in a cavity and/or under the floor? If not any suggestions on how to find the cause and fix it? Take a guess which rooms are at the new end.
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