Carrerahill

Sort of but both further down away from the house, that little short link would be better a bit longer to keep fall/velocities etc. consistent.

I would expect them to be sort of M5/M6 machine screws or something. If it is just a modest oven it could also just be in with self-tappers into plastic or metal.

I'd move A down a bit, then put a new chamber into the clay near the house, I would then also catch the waste from the run from the door directly into this chamber so that A only collects waste from the 3 outlets shown top of your plan. Then run A over to the new chamber on a branch. Just lay it out well so that everything is always trying to flow away, try not to have things running across your site is never good.

Keep emailing his solicitor, it will cost him when they reply to you or possibly even read your correspondence, to make things worse, print and post it all. Then they have to scan it to send to your client or indeed copy it verbatim if they want to quote you, all costing money. Your neighbour might get fed up paying solicitors fees because until you do anything, there is little that will or can happen.

Up to 16A you only need to give them notification, it has become apparent that most solar installers have not being doing this properly and the DNO's reaction has been zero. The installer does the MCS cert, the utility company accepts that as part of the SEG application and that is the end of it. DNO never gets told. Over 16A you need approval to go over 16A and then the DNO really only wants to know so they ensure the upstream network can handle the export, which for now will not be an issue but if you had 20 houses on a tranny phase protected by say a 600A BS88 - then if each house generated & exported 7.2kW then that would arguably be sitting right on the LV network design capacity. If you want SEG then you need to go through the proper channels, if you just want some solar and plan to self-consume/store, maybe export a little bit, then I would just crack on and do it.

I am going to wire my inverter/charger into the grid via input terminals, so if there is no PV coming in and no battery capacity, it just draws on the grid and comes straight out the output side into my consumer unit. Technically it is "off-grid" but fully connected too, I can of course simply isolate this supply if I want to go truly off-gird. If I do my sums right and the sun works, I should never actually go over to grid.

Not true.

If no one can see them I wouldn't bother. I have put them on my garage and your meant to have PP for that but no one can really see my roof.

Yes you could have an off-grid portion and take for example all your lighting and other light loads off the main board and be semi-off-grid which is something I am looking at doing. I am going to start small by taking the garage and outside lighting off-grid, my plan is to install a 6 way consumer unit next to the main consumer unit and start moving circuits as and when capacity permits, I will always allow for another means of AC input (generator or grid) via the charger/inverter so on a grey winters week, I can still pull those circuits onto the grid. I also contemplated making my loft conversion an off-grid space. My plan long term is to come off grid 100% but I want to go through a period of discovery and learning first.

Is there no other way whatsoever of getting into your garden without going via his. When people try things like this with me, I do my best to find another way or to do something totally unorthodox just out of badness. Could you remove a wall or fence anywhere, even if it meant paying a neighbour and having the wall or fence reinstated. Airlift the materials in? Can you not come through your house? Crane the stuff in from the street... This would allow you to totally cease all communication with your neighbour and their solicitor and simply go and do your own thing which would be highly satisfying. Of course, if you can prove right of way over this bit of ground then that would be highly satisfying too.

Just get decent ones, zinc galv or stainless. Timco or Fisher do boxes at decent prices. Even the sheradised ones, which are not as good, I found, having sat in a damp garage for over 10 years, I noticed had no disenable corrosion on them. I cannot imagine you will have any by way of exposed framing nails. I never had an issue with SS nails, they work just the same in my gun.

Have you gone to speak to him, you have clearly done something that upset him, I am not suggesting that what you did was unreasonable, but certainly in his eyes it is/was. Just speak to the guy, when you knock his door etc. just say I would like to have a conversation without prejudice and that you will respond via his solicitor but you want this without prejudice discussion with him directly.

They do not need to be on their own circuit. A dedicated circuit is fine, but given they are all battery backup its not the same issue really. In an ideal world yes you would but not a requirement and I am not really sure, having done it myself, what real benefits it really has. I always spec them on their own circuits I have to say, one of the first things that get's VEed out though.

It depends what your putting on top of it... What was down before? Sub-floor quality requirement is driven by floor covering type.

It looks fine, but a bit of a long way round...

Got to be real wood for me. When we renovated the first floor I used all Howdens MDF stuff. It looked good for a while but now looks awful and by the time I got to the extension and ground floor I had converted to pine. I also go for the bigger stuff, 145mm I think, it looks great and is very forgiving. I am going to rip out all the MDF over the next year or so upstairs and replace it as rooms get redecorated. I literally hate it!

Almost everything can be DIYed in my experience, even the stuff that apparently cannot! Its just a case of buying or borrowing the right tools! MVHR would be very high on my list of easily DIYed items.

What a great question. I will be intrigued as to responses you get on this one if anyone has experience and further down the line, your own findings of what happens when your contractor demo's your building. I am going to suggest it will just get broken up into the rubble as the walls fall, I do however hate the idea that some of this rubbish is just going to break up, blow around, get mashed into foam powder which will go into the ground where it will stay for centuries. I don't even like PIR insulation being cut outside and all that dust going into gardens/sites. Everywhere I look contamination from man made materials is in the ground. Stuff like block and brick and cement and even glass is bad enough but at least it is more or less inert and as far as I know would cause no pollution in terms of a contamination that can leach through into the soil/water.

Probably not - even if they did, they might just send a email or letter to the electrician telling them to sort it, but they will immediately treat you with contempt, because you are not paying their subscription. They will also probably almost immediately treat you as a laymen and try a fobbing off exercise. Just to understand this, did your electrician install a new CU (consumer unit)? I would expect him maybe to have done an EICR before the board was done to highlight any issues, after the board is installed I would then expect an EIC for the board, but the whole installation should be checked now he has replaced the heart of the system.

NICEIC is just a subscription gathering organisation in my eyes, as with many of these professional organisations. I have more or less been in engineering consultancy my whole career, I've been a member of a professional membership for 1 year until I came to renewal and realised I'd given someone £350 the year before for absolutely no reason - well, apart from the magazine, which was pretty much a magazine full of advert articles! A few years ago I did some research into it all, and came up with the answer that in Scotland anyway, you don't actually need to be a member of any of these organisations, its just implied and people expect it now, but as you say it doesn't actually mean good sparks. Thinking aloud here for some discussion Dave regarding the immerser on the ring; I'd say that within 314 - division of installations, that will suggest that a hot water heating circuit should not be combined with a kitchen ring, it also ruins the diversity figures and the circuit design is being stretched having a 11-12A continuous (hours) load on it when other kitchen appliances kick in.

Get your plumber and electrician back for starters and get that mess sorted! I'd ask your plasterer to put some access hatches in for when those unsupported and stressed push fit Tee joints are so when they blow off you can get in and fix it quickly.

How have you calculated this? Have you applied diversity and or done a load analysis?

3.4 lpm sounds like a dribble. I think that will be one of those showers you will be shifting about looking for some water!

If you tell me what your planning on installing in your workshop, I can do you a cable calc and quick written "design".

I created a external lighting circuit which does all external lighting on house and garage with a feed into the garden for garden lighting. I have interlinked all of them onto a photocell (or some are wirelessly with Shelly's switched via a link to the supply) so that they all come on at the same time (I hate lights coming on in dribs and drabs. I can override it all too from a switch in the kitchen or my phone. Then down one side of the house the lighting from the gate is then on a PIR so it only comes on if activated. We also have one light that comes on at 10% when dark and ramps up to 100% on motion detection for the log store. General back door, main side of house and front door lighting is on when it is dark all night. All the lighting is the same except 1 piece (the log store light) and it looks good.