JohnMo

Bit confused by this thread, the issue is not short cycling of the ASHP, which seems to what everyone is trying to fix. Instead the issue seems to be hot water not being drawn into the pump suction. Nick's drawing would allow the pump in the ASHP to push hot water the the UFH manifold pump, but needs the whole system with anti freeze, £150 mentioned. A small pump would fix issue, without a major replumb, or am I missing something?

I would do all the built in stuff first, then floor covering. Floor covering are replacable, if they are under built in stuff it a pain to change out. The built in wardrobes would normally be in place for ever, so floor covering butts up to them..

If its noisy it could be pump cavitation, due to limited water pressure upstream of pump. It will wear the impeller in the pump quite quickly. To fix either increase elevation of tank upstream or install a pump. Or a small hole in blocked bypass may fix, but would reduce temp at manifold. Tweek temp up at cylinder to compensate. Or small high efficiency CH pump set to min speed, let it run 24/7 during heat season?

You can locate panels East, South and West. Install with optimisers, will keep performance up with shading.

You don't drill through any slates to install the "solar slate plates", the plate replaces a slate and sized to match the slates you have installed.

I used Wood Kraft in Elgin, they are wood, not Ali clad, but very good quality. I have a some big windows with angles, so wanted the same company to measure and install. No real issues, any issues were solved easily, with the workshop just 3 miles from site. Would recommend them and use again. Not cheap, but worth it.

Various sizes are available, ours are 310W each, so 10 panels, ours are in an approx 10m long line.

Saving are better than before, (pay back quicker) with current and expected cost increases. Plenty of companies sell a kit of parts, a local electrician can install, a PV diverter to immersion. 3kW system should allow you to self consume what you produce.

What about using solar limpets, or solar slate plates, don't see why they make the process more difficult.

No reason

We bought everything in sales, saved a small fortune, not had any issues. Most bought when we were at foundation stage, some before that (pre lockdown sales at start of COVID). But to this you need to know what you want and where it goes - but then don't change, over wise you'll have a lot of stuff that no use to you.

I have used crystal clear and it's very clear, BUT has to be exposed to UV to stay clear. Whatever you get read the data sheet to make sure it stays clear where you plan to use it

Temporary work platform is a triangle of steel with a tongue at the top which is hammered into the sarking board. Two or more pieces attached then a scaffold board.

Slate with GSE - before and after

If you go this route do it on E7 or similar low tarrif

Before you go A2A, have you lived, been in a building where you have A2A wall units? I have and found them noisy, blow drafts at you and are generally annoying. Would not have them in a house again.

Both nod and I posted at same time. As an example I have roof integrated PV 3.1kW and it takes up around 15m2, on a DIY basis cost cost just over £2.5k with electrician cost included. No roof tiles needed under PV. A concrete tile weighs in quite heavy when compared to slate. Have a good look around, to see if there is any sag on the other roofs, IE is the roof line still straight. Also did they have to reinforce the roof, with extra wood etc. Look on gumtree etc for people selling excess Welsh slate, you may see a bargain. Get the roof stripped, the existing slates inspected as they come off and reuse the good and replace the bad. Find a decent slating company, ask around knock on door in the local area etc.

Best guess would be the point where the vent stack goes through the roof. If it is damp now it is a current issue or dry could be old or just not leaking now.

Should give you a good idea of where you have issues. Our pre test cost £200 and it was a negative pressure test only, you can easily feel any leaks especially when it's cold outside.

This what the Durisol manual says. 17. Mortgage and Insurance Mortgage The Valuation Panel of the Council of Mortgage Lenders has confirmed that ICF (Insulating Concrete Formwork) construction is acceptable for mortgage purposes as a standard form of construction, subject to provision of valid product certification and monitoring of ICF System providers by the ICFA (Insulating Concrete Formwork Association) of the UK. Durisol UK is a full member of the Insulating Concrete Formwork Association (ICFA) which is a UK Trade Association founded in 1992 to promote ICF as a concept in the UK construction market. https://icfa.org.uk/building-with-icf/mortgages/

This is what we did, didn't want anything in the roof as difficult to maintain.

Hi, you should aim for as large an overlap as as possible, but as long as the joint don't coincide with each other you should fine with a small overlap. The main reason for the staggered joints is to limit the thermal bridge, if you have gaps at joints.

We had a house in Elgin, built in 1830, with dormers from day one. But the original ones had lead covers, and at some point two had been replaced with felt. So could they be original build, if they are lathe and plaster good chance they are original, if plasterboard they could have added after the original build.

We have a mix of oak engineered, tiles and carpet. Carpet somewhat kills the usefulness of UFH. But what I may like, you could hate, you pay the money, so choose something that suits the house, your decor and your budget.

Sounds like a not starter. Because of the dead leg alone.