JohnMo

Hence put it on thin to fill gaps and pin holes only. Broom in photo is the size I used for applying hithe parge coat. Mine is on Durisol blocks and you can see the blocks clearly.

I mixed mine to a double cream thickness, then got a few cheap natural bristle brooms, rubbed it well into surface, so it had no pin holes. Once dried, had a look over and where pin holes had occurred during drying gave a second coat. When attaching battons I used a hybrid seal in the holes for the batten screws. We used tapered edge plasterboard and taped the joints. (Dry lined).

Overall seems a complicated roof to build. Why not. Metal roof. Suitable membrane Ply Rafter Under draw with counter battens to suitable thickness Spray foam to circa 350mm Airtightness vapour control layer Comments on your build up As said above. I used Passive House Systems, reflective air tight vapour barrier. Their primer on the parge coat, then the airtight adhesive. All joints and staples taped. Photo of roof and wall prior to battens. I don't believe the open cell foam is that airtight, as I missed some taping on the ceiling and had an air leak at that location. (air test prior to plasterboard). To If you are doing a parge coat add some lime to the mix, give a better mix for brushing on and stays more flexible after drying.

Have a look on the manufacturer website, they now list various delta T, if not give them a call or the UK agent.

This kit is a 4.5m pole. https://www.ungerglobal.com/uk/products/stingray-indoor-cleaning-kit-450-os Not cheap, but in theory would give a 6.5m + reach., So give s tick in the box for internal Window cleaning. External can be by ladder or wet pole as above suggestions

You could use a pipe stat, close to the pump. Set at say 45 degrees and wire the pump live through the normally closed connects. If the flow temp goes above where it is likely to cause an issue the pump gets switched off.

We did parge, but at the DPC we did a coat of airtight paint, as the diagnostic air test showed a leak there.

I would just bite the bullet and use a single Sumamp. Anything else is just p***ing about if you are going ASHP, with your space constraints. The other is install cylinder in loft space, if you have one. Or stay with gas. And wait for high temperature heat pumps to come available.

No dry lined and taped - that's the Scottish way.

You can use Aerogel, which give bout 20% improved performance over PIR for the same thickness, for 3x the cost. Or get some thin PIR and foam into place

If you have a smart phone, download CDM regulations App and there is a H&S form to fill in. Takes 20mins. You are then the Principal contractor.

Depends where you are in the country, in NE Scotland you can't easily get plasterers. So a parge coat makes sene. For a parge coat, I mixed 1 cement, 3 sand and about 1/5 lime, mix to a double cream thickness. Get a few natural bristle brooms and apply with them. Rub into surface so all pin holes are filled. Plan on a couple of days for two people, depending on house size. When attaching battens I used hybrid sealant in the holes.

You don't notice them after a week in the house and it's all furnished, too much other stuff for your eyes to see. Spend thousands, if you need to, but I went with Aico and didn't.

You just don't notice them after a week in the house

+1

Dot and dab, will not stop leakage, so unless you seal the block work, 4 ach may be as good as you will get. It could be worse. We have Durisol ICF, which is made of woodcrete, which leaks like a sieve. I did a parge coat, with sand cement and lime. On an airtest prior covering with plasterboard, we had leaks in window corners and at dpc. The walls themselves had no leaks.

Not sure why you say that, as it is officially allowed. https://www.gov.scot/publications/fire-and-smoke-alarms-in-scottish-homes/

The battery ones have to be sealed so you cannot replace the battery to comply. Once battery expires you need to install a new smoke or heat detector.

Became a requirement for rental properties about 10 years ago (I believe). You to have a heat detector (only heat not combine heat/smoke) in kitchen, plus smoke elsewhere.. Google combined ones are mentioned in the guidance notes, as not to be used, as they do no comply with the registrations, being combined smoke and heat.

Somewhat lost me. First point, yes Second point, you didn't ask for that, you asked for the furthest point for secondary return with manifold. If you want it at all outlets, that could be done. The flow will go through the manifold so that is also heated. So all outlets close to manifold get hot water quickly. No a secondary return does not save any energy, as you are pumping hot water around a circuit and it will loose heat constantly, hence a need to insulate well. It save running cold water down the waste while you wait for the hot water to arrive. I have mine on a timer so it only runs when I am most likely to want it, to save energy.

We are in the country, it quite contemporary, but the planners words - fitted in with the vernacular.

We are in Moray, we had to have slate roof, but we have wood cladding and stone. And it's single storey. So doesn't have to be ...

Just doing that now, already have 3.1kW of PV. Could do with some water heating in the shoulder months when PV output isn't generating at full capacity.

B&Q?

I take you still have to get a warrant? During the warrant stage I change quite a lot including the whole build method, quite a few sizes etc. Could stone slips be an alternative to render, from a distance you get the same look, but close up a very different look?