JohnMo

What ever you make sure you can maintain it later when lights fail. No point doing something that requires a scaffold to fix. Also the further the light from where you want it the dimmer the light will feel. We went for up and down lighters high on the wall. Overall it works great, easy to maintain, light where you need it.

Third thread today on sand batteries

At 500 degC you can make high quality steam and drive a steam turbine generator - electricity.

Do you have an immersion diverter or timer, this will use some of the surplus PV power to make DHW.

Looks fine straddling the insulation band concrete.

We never asked for permission, as we got the caravan with the site, so assumed it was ok. And it's a temporary building as such. The council assessed it for council tax and we now pay council tax on that, once we get house sign off that will revert to main house. We are private water a sewage treatment, so that was deleted from the council tax bill.

May be worth adding a drawing of what the floor to window interface will look like. You should be able to plot the heat transfer path at the base of the window from the drawing.

Used GRC Aquatech at Insch Aberdeenshire. Filter system was installed about 10 months ago, pump a couple months before that.

I think your extension will be difficult within the budget., You seem to two lounge and dining areas, which seems loads of dead space. As said utility is huge. Also the kitchen, diner sitting area looks very spacious.

If your doing a split ASHP you need F gas, otherwise no. Why waste 5 days of your life and £1k.

My borehole is 34m deep and 27m of steel casing as it is mostly sand. The borehole finished was £5k. Test pump hire, £350 Final pump and control, £1700 Filter system £1700, treating for iron and sediment, plus a UV filter for sterilisation. All the above include vat.

We got around it with a special fire proof paint, we then just painted over it once we had sign off. Wasn't cheap and had to be applied by a certified by person to keep BC happy.

Air to air may put you off also. I lived with Aircon for a few years, and found it blowing at you all the time, even though it was supposed to blow in any other direction instead of you. Not sure hot heating would be much better.

But in the case of a large array say 6kW and a small inverter 3kW or an inverter that can limit export, you could have 6 kW DC, the inverter will waste the rest as heat

A timber framed house is normally encased in 4" blocks, or bricks. Nearly every new house in Scotland has been timber framed for the last 30 or 40 years. Use cellulose, wood fibre or dense Rockwool for best performance, PIR will give little or no sound deadening. Windows will then be where the noise comes in.

It is in Scotland I believe, not sure about anywhere else

What is the DHT22 tied into to signal the MVHR to go into boost?

If you want to use for MVHR or similar, it looks the same, but internal wall is anti bacterial treated to stop nasty stuff from growing with the correct semiflex duct. Normal underground stuff is a little stiffer and not treated.

Exactly what is your roof buildup currently?

Go on your local council website they should point you in the direction of all the rules. The Scottish rules are different from the rest of the UK. Ultimately the rules come from SEPA. But there are other agencies sitting beneath SEPA.

Could you use a Shelly EM plus 50A clamp on your inverter output. Once output equal to xx, switch power to immersion, when below xx switch off immersion.

No different stuff. Use the excess DPM for covering sand etc to stop it blowing away or wood to stop it getting damp while waiting to be installed.

As Joe90 and ProDave say, DIY is the only way to go. Batteries way to expensive, cost per cycle still way to high. If you have an ASAP you can triple your useful output of your PV system. PV also covers your home background daytime electric usage for most of the year.

You will need a heat loss calculations to determine if the existing boiler is ok or otherwise. No need for actuators, you will need a pump, mixer valve and wiring center. Once thermostat is no longer calling for heat the pump will stop. Wiser thermostat looks an expensive way to control a couple of loops and you possibly need to use the UFH controller instead of a simple wiring centre. The mixing valves are designed for that.

Something like Rockwool flexi.