crispy_wafer

I'm working to this but removing the volumiser and extra pumps. Don't think it could get much simpler.

I understand now, what you mean about triangle of blocks.. doh! Yep 6" away from stairs. I'm happy to go at most things so Yeah I reckon can do this!

Excuse the mess! Here's one side, covered in parge, I'll need to untack the wiring and relocate the switch, but that's no biggie, even if I have to replace wiring. Other side

So, it seems I've a doorway in the wrong place... Something I knew about, just shoved it out the way till I had headspace to think about it. Long story short, builder increased the height of ground floor by a block, leaving not enough length for staircase before a doorway... I just need the doorway shifting 6 inches thataway <---.... It's and internal opening in a cavity wall, block and block. Concrete lintels in each leaf above the opening with 150mm either side. Width of the opening is about 900mm. We have a floor above on one side set on Pozi's. Is this something that I can deal with, by drilling out space for the new lintel, drilling out the mortar, knocking the lintel out then replacing with a longer one, I can then set about opening up the width of the doorway at a later date? Or do I need a man that can, who has all the prop gear, expertise and stuff?

That's what I'd do. Plastic waste pipe and fittings is a game that no-one other than the bleedin manufacturers win.

What thread is on the bottom of the mvhr unit, if a standard size would it not be be easier to just start from there and ditch what was supplied?

Seems a pretty routine buildup that many have used and incorporated UFH in before.

Steinel

I did try mortar in a bucket and a brush to start with, but found it ended up crumbly and didn't adhere too well to the blocks, just ended up grainy and on the floor so I went the expensive route and bought in soundcoat @ 10 per bag, never even attempted a plastering type motion before, 1st wall was a mess and more slopped on the floor than the wall, second wall better but still dropped loads. After that, spot on, got the hang of the hawk and trowel... Although I could only manage 1/2 a bag at a time as my shoulders were crying.

Beadmaster

just adding, common sense really, but make sure it's high enough to mitigate any risk of water ingress from flooding (if that would ever be an issue)

first thoughts are sheet of mdf, cut to size then get your dakar colour matched at dulux and get a local decorator to spray it for some beer tokens.

No probs, 7600 ish for a 10kw multi split, 4 individual units in loft and cupboard spaces, with ducting to bedrooms and downstairs kitchen diner. Mitsubishi heavy industries, whilst not the greatest, certainly not the worst out there, plenty of installers out there who are familiar of it needs fettling in the future. I think the price was about fair. Has to be said though, a single multi like this will only do heat or cool at once. If you ever envisage heating and cooling at same time then it needs separate units.

haha, ive no idea, i'm still grafting away trying to build the place - plasterboarding now... Either way I'm sorted for heating and cooling, I've got ducted ac downstairs too, and with the amount of south facing glass it will certainly come in useful, upstairs and down. The main thing really is we have heating and cooling and will be comfortable.

When I started, fan coils and ashp cooling wasn’t a much travelled path in the trade, and those who I was taking advice from admitted it was doable but wouldn’t warrantee any work if we had issues with condensation drips and damp…. We had a2a at work and use it for both heat and cool, so just went with that, looking back I’ve spent twice, and should have insisted…. Upstairs I reckon will be cooling the majority of the time, we like bedrooms at 17/18 degrees and I reckon heat wise that will be achieved from air movement from downstairs. My biggest concern is bathrooms, although I put in electrics for a mat and towel rad in each I’m now thinking I could whack a fan coil rad in there and make use of the ashp at this time of the year, the extra load won’t be much as it will be on the ufh circuit. I may just run the pipe work and leave in the floor void. So if it becomes an issue later on then tails can be pressed on, and pulled through the floor.

Upstairs we have split ducted air to air in the bedrooms, bathrooms we have electric ufh, and I’m considering putting a fan coil rad in the bathrooms as a last minute decision instead of electric towel rads before I finish boarding the ceilings. It’ll cost nothing to pipe up, as I’ve got loads of 16mm pipe left from the ufh.

Register plate. Steel, disconnect flue and insert through hole. Though you can cut hole in plate and saw down the middle and slip either side of the pipe and then fashion something to cover the cut if flue pipe removal is a faff.

We had to fit swift boxes too, trouble is, the swifts that visit us every year nest in the stables…. So the one in the brickwork is redundant, just a box ticking exercise I feel. Just as well because I don’t fancy swift crap down the brickwork, and on the floor below.

With the OSB/Ply being used to close the cavity and it only being fixed to the internal leaf, would this allow any flex in the board at the window frame, or is the OSB rigid enough over the width of cavity? What would the J bead be used for?

If merchants then yeah, I do, all my build stuff is on CC, section 75 if nothing else. If it's brand new, make sure you've used it in a chip/pin somewhere first as it may decline over the phone.

When confronted with a steel that split my house into two in the floor void, I had to replan, moved the unit to the loft, built in a cupboard in one of the bedrooms and drop the pipes to the ground floor through the void at the back of said cupboard. Is there any opportunity for you to do similar?

if anything like mine, this, or res bar will need doing, just to have lovely flat surface to plasterboard. just looking back through my emails 304*75 at 400's worked out at 11.2mm deflection cost was 1585+vat for 25 joists to span 5.2m asked them to get me to 8mm and they came up with 304*122 @ 400's cost was 1980 + vat for same qty's. for 400, along with switching to attic trusses it was a no brainer, makes for piece of mind. 400 centres is a pain for soil pipe, so design in mind

I've been using these GTEC screws for fixing ply, plasterboard to metal frame (C Stud or Top hat and res bar), I picked up some crappy self drilling screws from screwfix, and butchered the plasterboard as they didn't drive into the metal very well and just spun around in the board making a mess. Siniat GTEC 32mm Drywall Screws - ADA Fastfix Ltd Pricing note, I'm paying 13 + vat for 15mm GTEC Soundbloc, and 10 + VAT for 12.5 Soundbloc, not in massive quantities. I'm taking 30 or so at a time as I dont have too much space to store, and not leaving outside now its got a bit damp...

Whilst you are doing all that good work don’t forget your perimeter insulation.

About the same for the steel fab, with a single winder. Treads at about 200 ish per, and a steel balustrade at about 1300. Wooden capping to the steel balustrade not costed yet.