crispy_wafer

A google search for internal steel doors reveals some good results, good pictures too, which give me an idea of what I might be looking for.

👍 for the plan of attack, 🤣 for having to spend time with the family

Seasons greetings. Might be one for the OMG why’s he done that thread… Anyway, the house is coming together very slowly and I’m now starting to really think about doors and stuff. Downstairs is pretty open, no private rooms as such apart the w/c which will have a conventional wooden door liner and door, all other rooms, it’s open season and glazed doors will be the plan. My opening depths range from a couple at 150mm to 300mm through a cavity wall. I don’t mind wooden door linings, it’s just I’d like to consider alternatives. Rather than hit up the tried and tested timber door linings, I fancy something different. Is there a narrow door frame system that would say fix into the opening, allowing me to plasterboard through the openings? I got this idea when I was sat looking at the my external aluminium external door, the frame isn’t very deep, and this look appealed to me. Is there such a door product for inside?

my first hangers were about 300mm ish, as I screwed to joists which were already spaced, then hangers every 600-800mm, mf7 was again about 600-800mm. Odd spacing every now and then to cater for lighting. Top hat was then at 400 centres. Sometimes had to adjust or double up again so lights/mvhr/ac/speakers didnt clash. A handful of my boards I’ve trimmed down to fit the top hat spacing too. So 300, and about 600 from the wall.

For diy use, I wouldn’t have thought so. as long as you keep away/be extra careful round 3rd parties and buildings where insurance may not pay out if they find out you don’t have a ticket. I guess with telehandlers just be careful of ground conditions, weight carried and heights you need to reach. ( pallet of bricks to 1st floor etc). Take care.

And progress on one side

Just popping in to say, a neighbour down the road from me refurbed his bungalow last year, roof off, external block and render away, bricked the outer leaf and did an internal refit too and a smallish extension. Took him 4 - 6 months, but is a builder by trade, so has the benefits of can do, or knows men who can.

We’ve got faith in you big man!

Nah not really, get all the bits lined up expecting worst case before you start. Send the wife out to a spa for the day then crack on. You’ll be done and dusted before it’s time for bacon butties.

aah, i was under the impression that the boss was welded, which failed then covered with gunk to fix. Ok my mistake, cool.

normally takes me two, always chalk the first go to my apprenticeship before giving myself a bollocking, and doing it so at least it looks right...

I know you've got your fancy ceiling and you can get access to that joint whenever, but, surely that bit of waste and soil pipe will nag away at you until it's right? The only issue I forsee in fixing that is chamfering the 4" pipe all round if you wanted to use push connectors instead of solweld on the 4" pipe, unless you have one of those chamfering gadgets of course.

I'm working to this but removing the volumiser and extra pumps. Don't think it could get much simpler.

I understand now, what you mean about triangle of blocks.. doh! Yep 6" away from stairs. I'm happy to go at most things so Yeah I reckon can do this!

Excuse the mess! Here's one side, covered in parge, I'll need to untack the wiring and relocate the switch, but that's no biggie, even if I have to replace wiring. Other side

So, it seems I've a doorway in the wrong place... Something I knew about, just shoved it out the way till I had headspace to think about it. Long story short, builder increased the height of ground floor by a block, leaving not enough length for staircase before a doorway... I just need the doorway shifting 6 inches thataway <---.... It's and internal opening in a cavity wall, block and block. Concrete lintels in each leaf above the opening with 150mm either side. Width of the opening is about 900mm. We have a floor above on one side set on Pozi's. Is this something that I can deal with, by drilling out space for the new lintel, drilling out the mortar, knocking the lintel out then replacing with a longer one, I can then set about opening up the width of the doorway at a later date? Or do I need a man that can, who has all the prop gear, expertise and stuff?

That's what I'd do. Plastic waste pipe and fittings is a game that no-one other than the bleedin manufacturers win.

What thread is on the bottom of the mvhr unit, if a standard size would it not be be easier to just start from there and ditch what was supplied?

Seems a pretty routine buildup that many have used and incorporated UFH in before.

Steinel

I did try mortar in a bucket and a brush to start with, but found it ended up crumbly and didn't adhere too well to the blocks, just ended up grainy and on the floor so I went the expensive route and bought in soundcoat @ 10 per bag, never even attempted a plastering type motion before, 1st wall was a mess and more slopped on the floor than the wall, second wall better but still dropped loads. After that, spot on, got the hang of the hawk and trowel... Although I could only manage 1/2 a bag at a time as my shoulders were crying.

Beadmaster

just adding, common sense really, but make sure it's high enough to mitigate any risk of water ingress from flooding (if that would ever be an issue)

first thoughts are sheet of mdf, cut to size then get your dakar colour matched at dulux and get a local decorator to spray it for some beer tokens.

No probs, 7600 ish for a 10kw multi split, 4 individual units in loft and cupboard spaces, with ducting to bedrooms and downstairs kitchen diner. Mitsubishi heavy industries, whilst not the greatest, certainly not the worst out there, plenty of installers out there who are familiar of it needs fettling in the future. I think the price was about fair. Has to be said though, a single multi like this will only do heat or cool at once. If you ever envisage heating and cooling at same time then it needs separate units.