crispy_wafer

if you want to run a cable for future use, I'd either run a duct so you can pull a cable at a later time, or get a heat loss calc done so you can quickly spec up the right size range HP and what it's cable size requirements are before you start pulling cables.

Nah, a squirt in the end about 30mm or so each end and a very quick trigger, how far into the conduit the foam spreads I don't know. once two cables are in, the nozzle will only go so far.

That's a useful tip/thought. How deep would you say the track is on your blinds? I meant the inner leaf, but yes your point is valid and stands. The reveals are taped over and the corners painted with soudatight. I have 80mm to play with, so if I want 40mm frame to sash, 15mm plasterboard (got a pile of 1200mm offcuts to use up) + skim leaves me with 20mm or so to insulate behind. I've over ordered on the jackoboard, would this do?, or should I PIR it - guess I could ct1 insulation to the PB, I've got some sheets of 20mm left over from when I did the screed perimeter? Sounds like you had fun achieving that...

yep, then ct1 over each end, if insects want to get in they are gonna need strong digging tools

my confusing wording wont be helping 🤣, yes to window reveals. Lets say before plasterboard I have an 80mm of frame on show from block to the bit that moves when you open the window. I was thinking after boarding to leave myself 45mm of frame showing? Would that be too little, too much, or just about right?

Good Morning, Probably sounds a bit of a daft question, I'm prepping for boarding my window reveals, how much space should I leave between the edge of the window and the plastered face of board? Would you make the head same as the sides? Thanks Marek

Ta muchly, cable ran, that’s saved me from dog house.

Morning all, In my excitement of boarding up have forgotten to wire in another switch to control a separate light. Situation is a Bedroom with wall lights either side of the bed, each side have its own switch to control it’s side light. Now I’ve ran the looped in cable to switch 1 on one side and ran the loop out cable to another room and totally forgot about switch 2. Can I run a 2nd cable to loop out again from bed switch 1 to bed switch 2. thx marek

I’d give the top of the plasterboard a knock with the side of your hand or a fist , you should be able to hear/feel where there is adhesive, sounds are different to where there is none.

What kind of pozi’s, are they the metal web jobs or the I beam type? The metal web jobs are a PITA, to get between the webs on the joist without making a mess of your hands, or material, it’s doable of course just increases the amount of labour time to do it right without gaps etc. Just my thoughts just so you go into this with eyes open!

@Iceverge I need to get hold of some of these J beads for my window reveals, do you have a picture of what they look like? I mean if I go into the merchants and ask for j bead, I want to end up with the right stuff!

You’ve got ventilation going on above the roof insulation which is good, however the detailing of the pir install is not so good, which may well be allowing this ventilation a path down behind the plasterboard. For me, the gaps need filling then taping over before any hint of the ceiling plasterboard goes up. Because there are gaps the cold outside air is making its way round the plasterboarded wall. Tiles off or ceiling down. Fill the gaps, tape up jobs a goodun. Save it for the summer though A common method for fixing the plasterboard not having continuous ribbon of adhesive round the perimeter of each board is to drill a series of holes at specific intervals and squirt a low expansion foam (Illbruck or soudal) what have you got on the ceiling? Is it insulated board or just regular board? needs rectifying really, don’t want to say you’ll end up with mould issues but it’s possible where the colder spots are.

Don’t worry, part of the ahem ‘fun’ going back and doing a bit of rework. It’s how we learn

Just want to say a thx for posting this, I have a small section of flat roof to which doors open and needing a balustrade without puncturing the covering was my preferred solution. I had thought about having a deck frame fabricated and balustrade fixing to this. This will help immensely with my idea. 👍

Kudos connect 2 will give you a get out of jail card if you have troublesome joists…

Yep, invest and treat like a long term rental, stump up and buy wisely and come the end you'll get your money back.

They’d use diversity factor, I had the same conversation with my installer after I scoured the manufacturers documents for compatibility qty and combinations of units. The manufacturers documents should have compatible combinations for the outdoor unit.

My steels were installed onto pad10 stones like these https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/102mm-x-330mm-x-215mm-concrete-padstone-pad13?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA74G9BhAEEiwA8kNfpW7AdykZ7lJQ_1MUWQcu2QTXVMIk3iRFiHalWnLcnY_Lss5WgQ5kxhoCRcIQAvD_BwE builder ought to be following the SE guidance, and not deviating, unless he can prove categorically what he has done is equal to or better than specification.

I've given that some thought too (the framing, that is)! I've got a smallish wall in the dormer bedroom to attach, couple of sheets trimmed down will do it, I cant really bugger that up. That'll keep the Mrs. happy as then it's one area that'll look something like a room 🤣. You'll have to pop your thoughts in your thread about the wall liner system, ease of use, gotchas etc. I've got a block wall downstairs that will be lined as I've got 28mm copper pipework to my UFH manifold down it to conceal as my staircase is now going to be an open tread jobby and don't want to my lovely pipework on show..

Simple really, what's the best/easiest trowel to use to get the muck from the bucket onto the wall? Had a go with a plasterers/finishing trowel and hawk which is all I have and while I managed to get adhesive on the wall I struggled with consistency in size of the dabs... I mean the finished result was fine, just felt a harder job than it ought to be. Could be this apprentices cack handed technique too! Many Thanks Marek

would say any of the cement fibre boards eg hardie and others would be suitable. No experience myself so would wait for someone who has trodden this path before to chime in. What's the substrate?

I think if you attach your gl1 bracket quite low/close to the track that would give additional support to the pu glue

pu adhesive I think @nod has suggested in the past, when peeps dont want to drill because of UFH pipework under studwalls, is this for the wall liner system?

We used APR in the ceilings along with res bar, saved the RWA for the walls. RWA in the ceilings would have been a ballache... RWA is fairly rigid so offcuts will hold when pressed against each other, however once you get a row in place I'd recommend you be careful if you try to adjust it's positioning as it'll all move!

Very nice, You've still maintained symmetry so it's not so bad, Maybe just space the windows further apart so that they are above the sidelights on the downstairs french doors instead. Once it's built though, you'll not really notice after the first few months!