Dave Jones

Why ? If the scaff company have built a loading bay then it would probably be for loading materials ? If in doubt ask them.

build out of block and clad it ? Steel over the doors etc probably be cheaper. 4 hipped garages look soo much better I think then a couple a wacking gables. more work for sure.

i dont understand. You say it was all signed off. Then you say another inspector hasnt signed it off ? which ?

im well aware of the ticket scam that all the big housebuilders use and its pretty much exclusive to them. It isn't a requirement of HSE/LAW anymore than a brickie having a brickie pass in order to lay bricks safely.

pump it behind the shutter (use scaffold planks cut and spiked in with 10mm rebar), make sure its not too wet. let it fill then move to other end of the pour. it will be fine. I hammered in lengths of batten into the footing every 1.5m then lasered the tops, an easy way to know if your level as you work your way round.

just done ours last week in the heat. Used a big blue from brandon hire, £30 for the weekend. Plan is to resin seal the floor to stop the dust.

the invoices must all be in the same (and correct) name to be accepted. Doesn't matter who pays them.

have a look at single room MVHR units with heat recovery. Really dont want trickle vents if you have made a big effort to air tight the room. https://www.bpcventilation.com/bsk-zephyr-single-room-heat-recovery-unit

no such thing. Try ringing HSE up and asking for one.

fees are miniscule, less than 10%, of the price of the plot+build costs. If these are your main worry then it may be a case of wood for the trees.

the delivery driver with hiab can put them straight on the loading bay for the first lift. maybe wont reach for roof lift. YOU not the brickie is responsible for both the telehandler insurance and any HSE breaches that may happen as YOU are the main contractor in law. There is no special licence required to drive a telehandler on site.

it shouldnt be pulled tight. the correct install is for a slight sag between trusses.

well. the membrane is pierced by staples/clouts to fix it which make holes.

marmox are a very cheap option for a traditional build to delink the slab.

because recession is here.

what is the window manufacturer design for the cill detail ? They are the ones you will be claiming against should it go wrong.

yes. completely normal to drip through the nail holes.

buildzone around same. its only paperwork why bother ?

your living on a building site so you need contractors all risk. expensive.

had some nice stuff at grand designs show in may, some of the outdoor building prices were insane though and they still sold them.

air test first. Make up a blower door/window and chase down all the leaks before plasterboarding.

MCS scammery.

you can drop the war5m deck into the joists but then you must alutrix/vcl underneath and down the inside blockwork to seal it. No putting wires or downlights. You would need as service void underneath and then plasterboard.

what we are doing with ours. Concrete it to the outside of the pillar either side. When we ready to pave, cut a nice straight line (even with shuttering you wont get this straight to the mm) ready to take the paving. We also have a linear drain across the front. Can run a length of 900 dpc along the join if you really want to but cant see it doing much really, im not bothering with it as damp will never be an issue at that junction. I would up the fall as well from your 1 in 60 which will be 1mm of fall over that 550/600 width. Id make it 5mm over such a short distance. Another case of an architect drawing utter nonsense.

leccy motors being an extension to the house/work battery systems via vehicle to grid will be a game changer.