Dave Jones

why do you want to lose the screed its your finished floor ? pipes stapled to the insulation then 75mm sand/cement screed on top.

they can literally do what they want as they are not accountable. Your only recourse to any of it is an appeal unfortunately.

your making a rod for your own back by choosing a niche, expensive build system with limited builders who can do them properly. save yourself a load of headache and cash and look at a normal brick and block build.

rotate socket 180 degrees and refit.

need to see what is under that lead. should be soakers and a couple of trays, one at back and one at front. The cover flashing looks a little low, ideally it needs to be 150mm. get it scaffolded and take more pics, lift the tiles.

ripples means you floated it a bit too early. It needs to be nearly gone off and it will be like glass.

what is your slab build up ?

faster flow ?

idiotic.

check both sides, also check they haven't already planed the door.

planning consultant.

floor to ceiling, exceeding current regs, Who best value ?

digdat

not any more. new regs. every cold bridge, insulation detail etc has to be photographed with geo tag to prove its all been done.

shame its a shed build, with a normal build you could easily had a vertical DPC at minimal cost.

the only part exposed is the centre join if you have multiple panels side by side. Everything else is flashed.

scaff / cherry picker and replace with dry virge.

gabions a section at a time ?

rubber roof, cheap and easy. couple sheets ply, couple 6x2 timber joists job done.

sell it.

screeding is a trade and a skill i think. pumping liquid just doesn't seem the same.

not a fan of flow screed either.

pays to keep them onside in case you need them back for snagging at some point.

which elevation has front door/letterbox ?

sounds like you have a plan. Hard to do a m2 figure until you have a plot and plans that can be QS'd. Flat site on good ground <<<< sloping site on clay for example.