Dave Jones

traditional screed for me every time.

should be, pop the end caps off and unscrew it.

have you got a router and some patience !! router the skirting line into the archi then filler the line below for a continuous look. Only you will ever notice it but when that random person also notices it , much satisfaction.

oh and the klober dry verge satisfies my ocd, the dogs leg stuff i cant live with. https://www.dryvergeandrooflinedirect.co.uk/products/klober-continuous-dry-verge-t-strip-5-meter-4-per-pack

id put a non material amendment in to add permission for static van during works. if the morons refuse appeal it with costs.

looks tidy, you could use lead as the top flashing as well, the kits that come with it aren't that great really and have to be bashed about fairish to get the tiles to sit nice. I ended up grinding a fair bit out the back of the tiles so when they lay on the tin flashing they were in line with either side.

wheres it say this in the regs ?

https://www.buildingregs4plans.co.uk/

that change in roof pitch for the conservatory wouldn't pass my OCD test, would have had to warm parapet roofed it! Oh and cut your grass!

you will need an EPC if you want a completion cert to be able to actually live in the house. At least in England anyway.

attached guide. Technical_Bulletin_A_Guide_to_Photographic_Evidence_for_New_Homes (1).pdf

chalkline the battens to make sure they are dead straight or it will look pants. Measure to top and use a gauge that doesn't leave small cut for top row of tile. Set out eaves row so there isnt a small cut either end and follow the bond up. Use a level to make sure you don't drift with the bond again looks pants. Chalkline the verge as well vertically as you will find with clay not all tiles are the same size you need this to be good in order not to look pants. Use a valley tile if you can instead of a tray, have plenty of tile and halfs ready for the cuts. Loading out doesn't really matter if there is a couple of you to pass and lay.

very interesting read, good find! In the conclusion they suggest treating the SVP as a cold bridge to ground confirming my suspicions. Will vent through tile vent and insulate as much as possible. probably a bit OTT but we have a long runs throughout the house. "In our uninsulated SVP the average temperature increases by up to 2K, but when insulated the air temperature will be <1K above ground temperature, so we suggest treating this as a thermal bridge to ground rather than air."

so you dont crap in the house ?

showers yes. bath and sinks no.

depends, if you go for 'full regs' where a plan check is performed (costs more 8 weekish lead time) or building warrant where zero checks are done. Reality is for most people building a house they employ an architect, the buck should stop with them but as well all know in the real world they are next to useless.

can you quote the building regs that specify this as i cant find it ? Same logic could be applied to any bedroom door or bathroom door opening out into the landing blocking anything downstream etc Only regs I can see regarding cupboards next to stairs refer to the bottom of a flight not the top. Doors which swing across a landing at the bottom of a flight should leave a clear space of at least 400mm across the full width of the flight

not so sure about that. heat goes to cold. would like to see real world heat loss calcs having many meters of cold bridge running through a warm zone.

sorry for more bad news the parapet wall as detailed also fails building control. It needs a cavity closer to close off the cavity and a tray (you may have this cant see from photo). These are weak points of failure when they are done really well let alone when they are wrong from the start. https://www.nhbc.co.uk/binaries/content/assets/nhbc/tech-zone/nhbc-standards/tech-guidance-and-support/parapets-and-copings---revised-05-20.pdf

not a planning function though its building control. Appeal with costs.

even cat 2 says a max of 4m3. dig a hole in the garden/drive and bury them. Just need a little chamber for a pump, they do say 3 phase as well.

looks like a cat 1 system needs between 1m3 and 1.5m3 of stored water. Not a lot and could easily be put in the loft as long as truss company is aware of the extra loading. https://www.ultrasafe.org.uk/home-sprinklers/

https://www.buildingregs4plans.co.uk/pre/loft_conversion_plans_new.php

pay £200 and get your plans QS'd. https://www.estimators.com/ Anyone having to quote will know exactly how may bricks, blocks, trays, weepers etc they will be having to lay . You will also have a ballpark price to know if your being bent over.

ive emailed NHBC technical to see what there opinion is.