Dave Jones

simple rectangle box, you may need to drop a couple grand on an SE to spec the retaining wall but the build is pretty simple. ie 150mm cavity make sure pozi joists are specced at least 225mm deep so you can get ducting/soil pipes through minimum of 150mm insulation, 75mm screed below DPC get SAP calcs done these will specify insulation and critical elements such as lintels, cold bridging spots etc will have to fireboard the garage as its below your living area. Not sure why there is a cavity wall shown between garage and hall but its wasted space. simple block build really that should go up fast.

the way the eddi works, it takes over control of the immersion so its not longer wired to the heat pump. it can take a signal from the heat pump to turn it on.

and treble the price.

extensions have less strict regs applying so you can get away with 100mm cav and mineral batts (cheapest). New build you can still use 100mm and celotex but this is a worse and mor expensive build solution than 150mm cav and mineral batts.

and keep the fence post conc 100mm below your slab level so they sail over the top.

we packed the underside of the stairs with leftover loftroll before boarding, made a massive difference to the sound.

You dont actually need construction drawings done by a 'professional'. Depending on your enthusiasm you can just use planning drawings, elevations and floor plans. These are enough to get it QS'd as long as you fill in some blanks. Build type, materials to be used, foundation type etc SE is only needed if your footings are non standard or you need steels. Everything else BCO can do. Put up your plans so we can have a look, no point blowing £18k on useless architects drawings which will be wrong anyway when it comes to build them.

good example of a year long build, wasting the only tiny benefit of a mega expensive shed build which is speed.

another + for render and timber as outside skin .........

is the floor or the walls out of level ? Have you checked its square ?

stairbox top quality oak 2500

d4 expanding glue, can put a couple screws on the starter row. I never bothered with any more anywhere. Floor is rock solid.

is it shared with anyone else ? Guessing it is otherwise you could simply move it. In which case its more than likely adopted and you will need build over permission.

dont do it. cheapest 1 bed renter you can find is infinitely better.

using a switchbot, 2 actually, 1 upstairs 1 down. https://uk.switch-bot.com/pages/switchbot-meter-plus Made a simple automation to fire the Aquera and move target temp to dewpoint+2

using buildzone for warranty only and no issues. Local authority for building control as they spend a maximum of 60 seconds on site.

vapour barrier wont help. I have set our to be dew point +2c automatically in home assistant.

exactly what i did with our aquera. Home Assistant gives more control over it than the Panasonic app!

carpet on it!

you wont have the headroom, it need above your ceiling/wiring. osb deck, vapour barrier, celotex, osb, rubber/felt etc. 200mm needed min really. then below that your 6x2 truss, plasterboard etc etc

why do you want a vapour barrier for pipes ?

if your heat loss is soo bad you need to run at 50c then it will need to run 24x7. If you expect to run it flat out for a couple hours each night and expect that to cover the other 20 hours of heat loss you are going to be in for a shock. ASHP are not gas boilers that can provide short, fast cheap bouts of very hot water. To not cost a fortune (minimum of 5 x the cost of a gas boiler per month) it needs to run constant and low to avoid spikes. You will be writing to daily mail saying what a rip off ASHP are next winter!!!!

your existing emitters are perfectly adequate for cooling, if your close to passive and have no upstairs heating then the addtion of fancoil units is a cheap and quick option.

not really. aircon is going to be 5-10x more expensive than fancoil units.

id have thought centreline is the switch which is the highest part a disabled person would need to access ?