bassanclan

Just go straight through with 6mm sds, or better still use straps

100mm long screws (some companies make them 102mm) have a few drill bits different lengths. 6mm and 6.5mm to overcome problems, blunting or breakages

Do you want to build to the same height and depth as the neighbour?

No screed, just a single layer of structural concrete. Leave to set for a few days then put a few sheets of plywood on for extra protection, but yes it does mean ufh pipes need to be in at an earlier stage than otherwise would be the case

The first time you buy Agilia you get site service. Subsequent times you are expected to know what you are doing which is why you might have had problems 50 percent of the time?

The bits you buy from Jetfloor are more expensive. A shaped section of eps is always going to be more than standard 8x4 sheets. Also, you can't shop around so much for the concrete beams as you have to buy the whole Jetfloor system. Also Agilia concrete is more expensive than standard concrete and needed a pump. No issues with cracking. Went in the next day after pouring and cut breaks in natural places,e.g. across doorways etc.

I would be inclined to stall whilst you arrange storage, then pay and collect at the same time

Make sure at least£100 is now paid by credit card, even if you've previously paid it by debit card or bank transfer

Ive used Jetfloor. Easier than traditional heavy dense blocks. No fibres or screed, just 60mm "Tarmac Agilia" structural concrete topping. I have no complaints, but it is more costly than a slab

Looks like plastic wall panel rather than tile

I doubt the sill will be locally, individually made. Look at Stormguard thresholds Coastal thresholds

The builder has probably dug down 300mm over the whole area of the extension to allow for insulation under the floor.

I think British Gas are being fair. They have to be sure the pump they provide is suitable, otherwise you would surely be coming back to them with a complaint!

The only time where they can impose a deadline is if they come for the final inspection and then I think there is 8 weeks to sort out any errors

We have an 'internal' kitchen as an extension was put on. It is "too dark" by your definition, but plenty of good lighting means it is better lit than most other kitchens I go in. I think if you have good natural light you are more likely to overlook good (electric) lighting, but that is exactly what is needed in a kitchen. Far rather an 'internal' kitchen than dining or sitting room

The reason for digging down ia usually because the garden is already at the correct level for the house and by adding material ontop you may bridge the dpc. Also by adding material on top you have to retain it at the edges somehow. If you have a walled garden its no problem

Engineered oak parquet herringbone

I like LTP Mattstone, but its a matt finish and I don't recall seeing a gloss equivalent

Plenty of lubricant to keep the drill tip cool

Had a little play with this model. If you put the level of pir as low as 5mm it still puts the dew point in the insulation

Did Go Plastering ever come and hack it all for you!?

The plasterer isn't going to try and sort it out. If you can live with the discrepancy then fine, otherwise you have to fix it!

5m of Phillips hue is something like £200, so I would expect a good warranty! The link is for 25m for £30, so a fraction of the price.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304801351297?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bobn_xQbRPy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=sZUbc1BTTHO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY With a driver such as this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225382212188?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Qmt-DtvTSW6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=sZUbc1BTTHO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY And you are sorted for less than £50! Make sure you choose your driver appropriately to the length of led. Ideally loaded to 75% or more. E.g. if you are putting 10m of 4.8w per m led then thats 48w so you would choose a 60w driver, not 80w driver