bassanclan

The bottom 10-20 rows look staright, but going along the wrong direction for the ridge point, after that the bonnets are all over the place

That is poor, you can definitely do better

Option 1 is less desirable. Removing any part of the structure which is sound has higher risk and may have unintended consequences, especially as you appear to have limited knowledge. If you follow as I said before it will provide equal stability without the risk

Way less disruptive to follow option 2,but use your design in option 1 for the stairs area

Bad idea to go in excess of the specified spans as it doesn't keep the floor feeling "solid"

Yes I agree. In my case the engineer from Hanson designed it based on 150 beam and gave a deflection which I felt was too high, so requested the 225 beam, (at no extra cost) which greatly reduced the deflection. In retrospect, with such a small amount of concrete topping (50-60mm) I wish there was an even thicker beam option to make the floor seem even more solid

Would you be able to move the lower door up 4mm and leave a 4mm gap nearer the floor?

How are you fixing the straps? Concrete screws? Also a spare sds drill bit wouldn't go amiss.

Buy some PAR timber and make exactly what you need

I fitted this on our utility cupboard and it does the job 2Amp 250v push to break electrical mortice switch https://amzn.eu/d/2s6oTKl

+1 electric planer and a sander to get it to 2mm

If his screed is level then you can have no complaint, you have a problem with your existing house, the new extension is not the problem. However if its actually your existing house that's level and the new bit is out, then you have grounds to complain

Looks like old type bitumen felt rather than modern breathable membrane, never the less it is on a roll, so there are laps where one roll overlaps the next

Worth checking the fuse on the fused spur of the immersion heater

Another vote for recessed covers

I think you just need to click "change payment method" as I have had no problem

Head height is fine for storage, the stairs and dormers led me to presume it was for a home office/gym etc. You could have saved a couple of thousand by not having the dormers.

Just as an aside, have you modelled the cross section to see the useable head height in the upstair as 5.5m ridge height seems fairly low, especially after insulation etc

You could build with a wider cavity and therefore insulation, but it looks like its only the gable walls which would benefit from a wider cavity (and the garage area), so far better to build it as the architect has shown

It might be something to go with the first floor of the garage

Cylinder mowers give a better finish to the lawn and will stripe it nicely. Rotary are easier to maintain and you can have a roller on the back to give a stripe.

Or an old land drain

No. Just no!

It might be that property with a D rating had the latest available boiler fitted in 2020. The same boiler may have been fitted in 2021, but improvements in technology may have meant it was no longer considered the most efficient available. A don't know if energy ratings of boilers changed, but certainly electrical items did https://markselectrical.co.uk/connect/energy-rating-labels-have-changed.html

If you have awkward neighbours the party wall act might make the costs too high for a small sq ft