bassanclan

Permitted development is always based on the original house, but I'm not sure that the house would have originally be designed with an internal kitchen, so you have to be sure that the house hasn't already been extended

Definitely tank it. Doesn't matter which system, they are all basically liquid rubber. Get a kit which comes with the tape, which you need for corners and joins.

I don't know why your architect is wanting to reduce the ridge to 7200, when 7441 has already proved acceptable, its just unnecessarily cutting down your useable space.

I am going to see if i can get away with using my 6m scaffolding tower, split into two to build a triple garage.

I think you missed a trick by not referencing the approved ridge and eaves heights. 7741 ridge 4986 eaves as previously approved would be a small tweak, but may be the difference between getting planning and not!

https://theecosupermarket.co.uk/product-category/solar-inverters/ Anyone used them? Looks reasonable prices for inverters. When you use City Plumbing solar kit build tool you realise they are making their money on the add ons.

The joy of City Plumbing is that it is free delivery. Bimble passes the total cost of delivery on m, which varies up to £210 for a full pallet.

It looks like the existing house is a bit of a hodge-podge of add ons and bits added here and there. Considering the cost, time and trouble you are going to, I am not sure the design of the overall building will look harmonious.

What ongoing costs are there with GSM systems? Do you need a monthly subscription etc?

Nobody can know what floor will be ok until you can be certain that the floor joists and therefore the ply etc is not moving

You can put self levelling on the ant crack mat, but it will crack because the subfloor is moving too much! LVT is bonded to the floor, it shouldn't crack, but with the floor moving so much i wouldn't be sure, if it doesn't crack gaps will open up between the tiles. Don't take up the whole floor, just enough to prove that the floor is not fixed properly, then ask for the builders public liability insurance details!

Yes I have rewired it temporarily so that the switch on the wall is basically a pump on/off switch and it works well. I have asked for a replacement part to be sent. When it arrives I will initially just put it back as it was to make sure it works, but should the DESIGN change, e.g. relay extra fuse, etc and if so how?

That looks ok in its self, but can we see what you are starting with?

How is this timber fixed to the blockwork? There doesn't seem to be a joist hanger. I suspect the timbers are resting on a concrete block on its side. A noggin against the wall hides a lot! Have you got much insulation under there? Doesn't look much space for insulation and ventilation. If you are having to rip up the tiles then the chances are that the subfloor is going to be damaged, so worth spending the time getting that right first. If the builder hasn't fitted hangers as he should then all these remedial costs are on him!

Just getting round to looking at this again Voltage at the pump 240v Input voltage 240v Output voltage 240v Output voltage when going through the flow switch 220v Neutral from pump to neutral on another circuit is 0v It must just be the flow switch has gone and the new one is faulty! Given both are under a year old I will return to RS and see how a third one works! As they will probably send me a replacement is there a better way it could be used to prevent this problem recurring? Alternatively a completely different setup which would make sense?

Children need to be 13 to work

Maybe worth measuring as best you can the thickness of each pane of glass. From your photo it looks more like 5+2+5 which would make sense with 12.02 overall thickness

Just had a quick google. Your picture is toughened and laminated glass. It seems that 6mm glass + 2mm plastic + 6mm glass makes a piece of glass 12.5-13.5mm thick

The system worked fine for about a year, then the electrical bit of the flow switch went wrong, but of course you have to buy the whole part. Not exactly sure how the switch works, but it looks like a little magnet which moves inside when the water is flowing to complete the circuit. I swapped it over and it has worked for another 10 months without a problem, but there must be an underlying cause of two failures in a short time

I found this photo which shows the flow switch

https://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivity/fs-05/flow-switch-brass-ac-10bar/dp/1006768 This is the flow switch. I'm away until Thursday so can't take a photo, but thought I could order a part for my return. I'm taking readings with a basic cheap multimeter. Two wires, brown being live in ans blue (sleeved brown) as live out. It is fed from a fused switched flex outlet. With the switch off there is 0volts Switch on shows 240v going to the flow switch and 0v coming out. When a hot tap is turned on 220v or 224v coming out

I have a thermal store with an external plate heat exchanger (phe) When a tap is turned on a dlow switch detects the flow of water and turns on a pump to pump water through the phe and heat the mains cold water. There is a problem. The pump isn't coming on, so manually wired the pump to a plug temporarily - it works. Input 240v into the flow switch, 220v coming out. So i got a new flow switch, but that behaves similarly, 240v in and 224v out, this time getting the pump on, but the pump flashing saying low voltage. Pump is a Wilo para RS25. I feel like 220v should be enough to make it work? Specs say 230v +/- 10% Can I have two faulty flow switches?

I think you need to be taking the closure plate off, it's the only way to get to the source of the problem

If you are anywhere near Derby you can ask Donfabs and Consillia (I sometimes contract for them) they specialise in one off metalwork

Jet blue ptfe liquid