bassanclan

1 day per room to board 1 day per room to skim Say 10 rooms, (take the rough with the smooth, the downstairs wc makes up for the vaulted celings) Say £150 a day (I'm paying £120 cash). £3000 (add a bit on as the plasterer is taking the risk) = £3500

Go bottom to top Fit the actual battens you need in their final resting place, but only every third or fourth course

Nothing should rip anyway!

Maybe an agreement to fit cctv to provide actual surveillance might allow you to apply to change the windows condition? If you wanted the tree gone then you should really have cut it down before making the application

Vinyl silk would give a sheen

Yes most coat with Leyland Super Leytex, or any "contract matt" (non vinyl) then fill. You will see amy areas that need doing a lot easier once it has had a coat of emulsion. Filling after mist coat is fine. The mist coat soaks into the plaster skim, you could say it is dying the plaster, so you there is no problem with adhesion of filler to skim, no need for pva, sbr... or xyz!

It would be good as a final coat, but I think the vinyl might not be ideal for the initial mist coat. You can get something very cheap as a mist coat, you might need two coats, but you're aheadofscheduleon the projectand can affordtosit and watch paint dry

Always the tiler

Is there any need for the brick specials above the front door in the photo? The timber provides a natural horizontal line anyway. Is the concern that you will see the edge of the render board from underneath?

Leyland Super Leytex is great for bare plaster, but pretty pricy usually

You want a "contract matt" type as the mist coat mixed with water rather than anything with vinyl in

Well done on the plastering by the way

The diagram you have attached there doesn't look like a hipped roof???

I would still use D4 expanding glue. It's thin and runny becasue it is hot, if you put it somewhere cooler it will become more viscous, but be more difficult to get out the bottle

Have you got a cupboard etc somewhere else in the house where you can have a practice and get your technique in the groove? Even a damaged sheet of old plasterboard temporarily tacked to a garage wall?

The multi finish isn't a problem if you are skimming over it, the cracking you are reading about is probably where people have used the tape and fill method only. My concern was how flat is your wall now? Simply as multi won't sand as well as joint cement. You also need to make sure all areas have the same prep. What you don't want is patches of wall here and there going off at different rates

+1 Don't waste your money on it Have you filled with multi finish or is it joint cement or something else?

In one way I agree that new PB shouldn't need anything. The plasterboard is unused, but this bathroom is about 10 years in the making and plasterboard is hardly "new" @Onoff is worried about suction. Generally if it is sucking in too much the PVA it, but he works at a similar pace to a man painting the forth road bridge with a 1/2" brush, with his arms tied behind his back, so won't get the plaster on quickly enough. Blue grit is by no means a solve all, but it will reduce suction (and differences in suction if there are different substrates) and is used when compeltely dry rather than tacky like PVA. I think we all agree that the BIL should be doing the job. Why not get him in to consult on what you should do? Invite him for a BBQ on the day you are doing it and he will give you some tips and be able to take over if you make a hash of it!

You should be able to get the blue grit to stick fairly evenly, use a low pile, but not smooth roller. You need a roller tray, not just straight from the tub. It might be that you have to go over a few times to get it spread evenly, but I just did 25sqm inc celings in an afternoon.

Your brother in law will tape the joints first and then blue grit

If you blue grit it needs 24h to dry, whereas pva you'd want to be laying on the plaster whilst still tacky

Where skim meets tile it should be taped. Don't tape where it is wholly behind tiles. You can fill that bit of damage with a bit of (powdered) tile adhesive. Don't put scrim tape on until the day/day before your brother in law is coming to skim

...for the brother in law to use...

I think it's just a very small trowel size to be able to smooth it so tightly

Well I've bought one roll to give it a go along with some aluminium diffuser strip from aliexpress. Mains dimmable drivers seem to be a bit pricy though