Jump to content

bassanclan

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1352

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by bassanclan

  1. bassanclan
    You really should solder it, otherwise it will p1ss you off. The mat should be fine. If you are worried put another mat behind, but not a wet cloth as you don't want your heatproof mat getting wet. Make sure you aim the heat the elbow (rather than the pipe) and you'll get the two joints soldered pretty quick before things get too hot If the pipe conducts heat and melts a bit of pir I'm sure you will squit a bit of foam down, which you were probably going to do anyway.
  2. bassanclan
    Or if you are an ironmongery direct customer, recommend someone, you get £25 amazon voucher and they get 20% off
  3. bassanclan
    You need to look at exactly what you signed, which will show what you and them have agreed to. A drawing will show an arrow indicating the door slides. The cost of a sliding door will be more than a fixed panel, so this will be obvious in the price too. Once you know exactly who is in the wrong then you can decide how to proceed
  4. bassanclan
    Without battens to fix the slates to, how will you know you are not running out of true/parallel? I presume you have to ping lines on the sarking and hope they line up with the battens underneath.
  5. bassanclan
    I would have imagined it would have been: Slate Batten Membrane Counter batten Sarking Fabric? Not sure what you mean here Sips panel
  6. bassanclan
    I dug a trench, lined with geotextile, then putpea shingle in, land drain on top, geotextile over the top then backfill. I figured it would stop clay getting into the shingle and then the pipe.
  7. bassanclan
    The cheapest way us to get a mat which sits in the bottom of the shower... Or a "paint on" kit as suggested earlier https://www.rubberduckbathrooms.co.uk/jt-just-trays-anti-slip-kit Far better to specify this at the start and have it fitted in the factory, but it is too late in this instance
  8. bassanclan
    2 brickies + 1 labourer will cost around £350-450 a day depending on local area, cash payments etc. They might lay 1250-1750 bricks per day. But finding someone who is capable and available is your first task
  9. bassanclan
    http://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/wienerberger-jasmine-blend-bricks-65mm-528-pack.html?utm_source=google_shopping&source=aw&awc=3811_1527000464_3123359319c7b3ed19e936effafdb463#description Says in stock
  10. bassanclan
    For anyone near Nottingham, Collins cash and carry have Leyland trade Super Leytex magnolia 15 litres for £12 (Inc vat) They also have Leyland Trade vinyl matt 2.5l for £3 Inc vat in a few selected shades, mushroom, pale beige, cream and another which I forget.
  11. bassanclan
    Or use something like this: http://www.setcrete.co.uk/product/deep-base/
  12. bassanclan
    Yes, you can do it in 2/3 layers so long as you give it plenty time inbetween to cure. Depending on what you are levelling onto you might want some SBR
  13. bassanclan
    I doubt he would be able to make a living for 40 years if he's always been this bad, I feel sorry for him because I can only assume his eyesight and sense of touch is failing. I will post a pic of the filled and sanded wall in the latter half of next week, then I probably won't feel so bad!
  14. bassanclan
    I need to have serious words with the person who recommended him, or send her to Specsavers
  15. bassanclan
    I've just had to have the difficult conversation with a plasterer: "I've had a look at the work you did yesterday... it's probably because you're not used to multi-finish... but it's not what I'm looking for" I'd initially booked him for today as well, but he didn't want to stay and patch up some old sand and cement. I feel so harsh as I've basically just shat on his 40+ years plastering experience and he's a nice guy, but it's going to take at least half a day to fill and sand down the work he did yesterday.
  16. bassanclan
    You don't want to go above 1:40 as it will be too steeply sloped, or below 1:80 as it won't be steep enough, so aim for 1:60, but be flexible depending on obstacles etc
  17. bassanclan
    You have to hope they have put some ties in the brickwork where they have changed bond
  18. bassanclan
    Can you sketch it? Is there an aav on the bath trap?
  19. bassanclan
    Stop your gold plating!
  20. bassanclan
    I think you will find it way cheaper to ask the fabricator to shotblast and prime it. If you need a bit extra protection on a leading face a couple of coats of hammering would sort you out
  21. bassanclan
    To be honest, is it worth future proofing the soil pipe? I imagine your great grandchildren won't be that fussed, as I assume that's how long it will be before this project is done
  22. bassanclan
    Even a half decent handyman should be able to do a much better job than your plumber did!
  23. bassanclan
    +1 Download the specs and get it made for £200-300
  24. bassanclan
    Personally I would swap the bottom bend and branch, so the branch is vertical, if need be make it a 4 socket rather 3 socket branch
  25. bassanclan
    Similar design and top of the range Alno excluding appliances and worktops cost me £12k+vat about 15 months ago
×
×
  • Create New...