Gone West

I fitted a 125mm serial rather than manifold ducting system in my last house using rigid uPVC. Fitting attenuators reduces 'cross- talk'. The ducting fitted snuggly through 250mm metal web joists. It does mean the joists have to line up accurately though.

https://www.theenergyshop.com/guides/which-energy-suppliers-have-gone-bust https://www.theenergyshop.com/energy-suppliers

We have had twenty five trees cut down since we moved in four months ago. They ranged from 600mm down to 150mm diameter and I drilled 22mm diameter holes, around 70mm deep in the stumps and filled them with SBK. The only ones requiring more treatment have been Ash and Beech. For a slow but sure kill bang copper tube into the hole.

I'm sorry I don't still have the costings from my research. IIRC I contacted Rehau and they gave me the name of a design company who gave me the info I needed.

I looked at this around twelve years ago when I was designing my PH and decided it wasn't worth the cost and effort. https://www.rehau.com/uk-en/ground-heat-exchanger

Have a look at permitted development rules and then maybe you can forget about the LA Planning process.

@zoothorn I gather from what you've mentioned in the past that some of the folks around you are less than friendly. I don't know if you are aware that you can get anti-lift locks for those types of gates. We fitted them on ours at our last house, because the local farmer said he had 'lost' some gates that way. https://www.jacksons-fencing.co.uk/product/sc_271200bm/anti-lift-device-for-timber-field-gates-inc.-padlock-galvanized-v

They look great, where did you get them from, if you don't mind me asking.

Well done, that looks very smart.

Good luck, hope it all works out for you.

I also used 12mm Hardie Backer board for our wetroom. It's heavy and a bugger to cut but I think it'll still be there for many years.

Yes, apparently mine were installed in 2011 and have a 25 year payment period.

Yup, a Cornish cream tea.

Yeah I made sure the picture was correct for Cornwall.

That's a Cornish cream tea, like a Welsh cream tea, only better .

That's looking good. If it's well concreted in 18" will be fine. We had the loop latch fitted to the larger gate.

There is a chap on GBF who heats his house with A2A, I think it's Owlman. We heated our last house, which was a PH, with EASHP warm air heating supplementing the electric towel rails which worked fine. It was a small house though and very well insulated.

You can buy screw on aerators which would fit any tap that had the correct size threaded nozzle. This one also has a flow restrictor built in. https://www.screwfix.com/p/strom-mini-flow-tap-flow-restrictor-aerator/6177r

When I did our front gates I drilled the holes first but obviously you can't so I would drill the top hole for the threaded fixing exactly the diameter of the fixing and you won't need much force to tap it through. The bottom hole doesn't go right through the post only deep enough to get the fixing far enough into the post. I think 13mm sounds a bit small and would try 16mm myself and try to get some support behind the post when you tap it in. Remember to make sure the pin remains vertical as you hit it.

Christ your work is neat. Wendy couldn't believe that you took the time to fix it and then painted it. Mind you she's used to me.

Well that'll make you feel knackered if the Covid doesn't.

Are you feeling better now, still banished to the garden?

I would go with option 'B' because I care more about functionality than aesthetics and if the sashes are opening then they should let in air. IMHO option 'A' makes me wonder why they are opening sashes and not fixed. Just the way I am.

https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/deals/homebuilding-renovating/?utm_source=MSE_Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_term=14-Sep-21-50695542-14103&source=CRM-MSETIP-50695542&utm_campaign=nt-oneliners-two&utm_content=11#53584

Do you know if you need BC involvement to remove an extension?