Gone West

I looked into those for my last house. https://owen-brothers.co.uk/singlephase/ob112-50a-sp-meter-mid-b-d.html

Since moving in the internal RH has roughly gone down from 65% to 55%. The internal wall surfaces are, as far as I can tell, gypsum plaster on sandstone or concrete block. From the brick example it seems as though there is potentially a lot of water stored in the material which I think would probably be less in hard plaster and sandstone, but I get the gist of what you are saying. I guess the temperature gradient within the solid stone wall would go in the opposite direction to the moisture gradient, as the house warms up.

So if there is around 100m2 of walling, 500mm thick, internal surface at 13C and the internal air is heated by 10C to 23C how much of the energy going into the house is evaporating moisture and how much energy is needed to bring the internal wall surface temperature to 20C.

I would wait until you have a replacement gas boiler fitted and check that all the radiators are working correctly before deciding your house is especially cold. We moved into a bungalow in May that had been empty for a year. It was cold, as it hadn't been heated and the construction is a mix of 650mm thick stone walls, concrete block walls and insulated concrete block walls. We filled the oil tank and turned the central heating on and after a couple of weeks the structure was warming up (thermal mass?) and now it's a nice 23C throughout the house.

When I did my 'O' levels in the sixties not only was calculus included in the maths, but statistics had it's own paper and the sciences were all separate papers. Now it seems they're all lumped together.

Well glory be. There's obviously no problem for heating in the future, with HVO heating oil and hydrogen gas we won't have to change much at all and the world's problems will be sorted without the need for ASHPs. Thank goodness we've got Boris. Got out of bed the wrong side this morning.

Well done, great looking house. Do you mind me asking what the grey flooring is in the picture.

You won't regret it, we have two in our kitchen, no noise and extra light.

That's very interesting. It would be good to have updates as the colder weather comes. I have often thought about A2A HPs as a good option, thanks for posting.

Disappointing? In my view it was the worst, most misleading programme about making houses more energy efficient that I've seen.

I started to watch this program, on ITV, last night. I stopped watching it soon after starting when they stated that UFH was more efficient than radiators and was a way of turning your home into an 'eco home'. The program was so full of misinformation, it was certainly the worst program I have watched on the subject and made me really annoyed. Needless to say I won't be watching again. Glad that's off my chest.

That's what we did with the MVHR extract 1.5m away from the recirculaing cooker hood.

No it wouldn't triple it but I was surprised when I ran PHPP for my last house how much difference it makes, everything else being equal. 9kWh/m2a @ 18C 13kWh/m2a @ 20C 21kWh/m2a @ 23C

But doesn't there have to be a standard for the indoor temperature otherwise the comparisons are meaningless. Running a house at 18C downstairs and 16C upstairs is always going to look better than 23C throughout the house.

@zoothorn If it were me I would just have it fitted and then use Nick's guarantee if needed.

All this meter fitting thing is weird. I'm being hounded all the time by SSE to have my existing meter changed to a SMART meter. Emails, phone calls telling me an engineer will be coming round on Monday unless I cancel it. So I cancel it online and then get asked when do I want it fitted. I told them that under no circumstances would I have my meter changed. Then it all starts again.

When we sold our last house, which was an A95 the estate agent said he hadn't sold a house with an A EPC before. I used the Government endorsed Simple Energy Advice site for our current house which is an old stone walled bungalow. It came up with fit PVs and use LED lightbulbs and that was it. Well we have a 4kWp PV system and are changing the lightbulbs so according to them we can't improve our house. No mention of EWI or IWI or changing the heating from oil to HP. https://www.simpleenergyadvice.org.uk/energy-efficiency/reduce-bills

Ours was six weeks at this time of year between fitting the first floor and the roof being water tight. We used Caberdek and had the joins taped and we didn't have any problems although water pooled on the floor and I swept if off when required.

I agree that it doesn't matter whether the energy comes from electricity, gas or oil but I think it's more complicated than that. IMHO it is the temperature of the water that is important and the differential between the air and water temperature. In a well insulated house the differential can be low with very little convection and the environment feels comfortable. In my current house I don't believe that even with a very large surface area of radiators at 45C the house would feel comfortable. I'm not going to spend thousands experimenting, I'll just insulate as much as I can to reduce the oil consumption.

You have now, as we have always run our CH 24/7 whatever fuel was being used. I tend to agree and would never swap my oil boiler for an ASHP because with 650mm thick stone walls I would never feel comfortable. I looked at the Vaillant website and couldn't find an Arotherm3 so guess that the 3 refers to the third most powerful in the series which if IIRC is 11kW.

Is that solar thermal or PV. We had a 180l UVC heated with an EASHP which was heated to 45C with a backup immersion. We never used the immersion and never ran out of hot water and that was for just two adults.

We fitted all AEG appliances, including a 700mm induction hob, with the exception of a Miele dishwasher and washing machine. All were working fine for three years up to when we moved.

At our last house we had a granite worktop and used G clips to to hold a composite undermount sink. No bonding required. https://www.gclip.co.uk/Home.html

You could use fan assisted radiators so they needn't be so large. https://www.myson.co.uk/products/iVector_MKII.htm https://jaga.co.uk/heating/

I fitted a 125mm serial rather than manifold ducting system in my last house using rigid uPVC. Fitting attenuators reduces 'cross- talk'. The ducting fitted snuggly through 250mm metal web joists. It does mean the joists have to line up accurately though.