Gone West

Yes, in my experience tossers with a limited vocabulary of - massing, bulk, form, scale, incongruous and discordant used for refusing applications.

Ideally the window frames would be installed inline with the insulation layer. Presumably the aluminium frames have a thermal break in them. What is the RH value near the windows. We have single glazing in one window and an air temperature of 23C and RH 50% near it and we dont get much condensation on that window.

Don't know what the annual average for Cornwall is but annual average for SW England & S Wales is 1277mm. Annual average for NW England and N Wales is 1338mm. Nearest station to us is Bude and it's 905mm, always seems to be dreich when I go to Toolstation. Ambleside is 2103mm and on the dry side Manson is 613mm.

We cleaned all the bricks, it was only soft lime mortar, and Freegled them along with the timber. I put a bit on here about it.

At Faversham the average annual rainfall is 675mm but I much prefer Cornwall to the South East and won't be moving back.

Are you staying put? I overheard a woman in the local post office, when I lived in East Kent, say that she had moved back from Cornwall because it rained too much. Must have been a waste of money to move 300 miles for a year or so and then move back.

We've got an Apollo wireless oil tank gauge that seems pretty accurate.

We installed a WPL Diamond system which ran faultlessly for eleven years except for the Secoh air pump which packed up after ten years and was replaced with a more efficient Secoh pump. The local farmer had a large Biodisc system and he was forever 'fixing' it.

I'm not sure if I understand the problem completely but the house we've recently moved into has a Mira Event XS shower which has a pump built into it and runs off a low pressure hot and cold supply. https://www.mirashowers.co.uk/showers/power-showers/mira-event-xs-thermostatic/

I don't know if this will be of any help. https://www.tileandstonejournal.com/featured-articles/green-screeds-what-we-should-know-before-tiling-them/ https://www.bal-adhesives.com/products/new-floor/

The only things I remember for sure that were branded were the Nikles showers. The taps may have been Crosswater but the ceramics etc weren't labelled as far as I can remember. I'm sorry I can't check as we moved house a few months ago.

We bought everything for the bathrooms from Bathstore around five years ago. The quality was good.

You know what you're doing though ?.

I guess you could use something like this if you use a S/S flue. https://www.riversidesheetmetal.net/chimney-caps/5.html

I wonder if it's something to do with the coating on the surface of the Caberdek which is making them apprehensive about gluing to it.

It's looking good, smart ensuite and that's going to be some shed.

We used a Roughneck mortar gun for pointing our patio slabs. A bit of trial and error but once we got the mix right, it was straightforward.

Have you tried Geyser. They had quick delivery but that was a while ago. https://www.geyser.co.uk/

That is exactly what we did. The per m2 comparison is meaningless as you are never comparing like with like. Even the m2 figure can be interior or exterior area. When you get into comparing professional builders doing self builds with amateurs/DIYers and how much they do themselves it becomes pointless. We didn't have to buy our plot but we did have to demolish the bungalow which had asbestos and those costs were included in the total. Our total cost was £246,818.26 which included nearly £7000 worth of tools because I did a lot of the work myself. This is the amount of money I wouldn't have spent had I not built the house. This was for a gross internal area of 126m2 or gross external area of 162m2 because it was a PH with thick walls and not a regular shape, again not the same for everyone. It will cost you whatever you end up spending.

The all LED lighting in our last house was perfect, there's nothing I like about the lighting in this house so I will have to change it all.

How long did it last. I'm thinking of rewiring all the lights next year using Quinetic. I've got a single switch and receiver to play with.

You've not heard of Rehau Geneo profiles then.

I built a PH with an Isoquick insulated raft foundation which had 300mm of EPS under the concrete slab. Obviously not something you can do but I would want at least 150mm PIR insulation under a concrete slab. It would mean digging out probably below the foundations which would mean getting advice from a structural engineer. An alternative would be to use an air to air ASHP which would mean you would only have to carry out repairs to the floor. There are people who are very happy with their A2A systems and The Green Building Forum has contributors who have given details.

I would have thought it would depend on the type of construction. We had our TF first tested after windows and doors were fitted and plasterboarding done, but then we didn't use airtightness membranes or tapes. We got 0.5ACH but the tester wouldn't accept it for SAP until the house was more complete. The final test was done after all second fix plumbing was done and he did a final SAP test which averaged 0.47ACH.

I wouldn't fit insulation unless the building was weathertight.