Gone West

I had old asbestos roof tiles many years ago and found the surface of the tiles would slowly break down and they would start to absorb moisture. This then allowed moss to grow and eventually the roof would became covered in moss. As asbestos hasn't been used for many years I would be surprised if there are asbestos tiled roofs that aren't covered in moss. If worried you can always send a sample off for testing. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Asbestos-Sample-Only-Test-Testing/dp/B095PCZJ4X/

Very basic, but I just bought a load of these years ago. They were only around £2.50 each when I bought them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134402838169

How many Passivhaus have you worked on? In the PHPP it requires the insulation levels for hot water pipes. The last thing you want in a PH is heat being introduced into areas where it's not wanted especially in the summer.

No, it will encourage them to to grow more side shoots and thicken up. If it's Cherry Laurel they should grow to around 30 feet eventually. They will still grow to their maximum height if you chop the tops off ocassionally. I planted a Cherry Laurel hedge many years ago and it was hard work keeping it at only eight feet high.

I've got a Bosch DNM120L bought 13 years ago and I also think it's good, especially as an inclinometer, not as posh as yours but didn't cost as much. Don't think they make that model any more.

+1, You beat me to it. It was like being on a fairground ride watching that.

I glued sheets of OSB to OSB using Everbuild Premium Wood Adhesive. The bond strength was amazing but it was for use in my shed though. https://www.toolstation.com/d4-wood-glue/p61864

It certainly has gone up a lot in the ten years since I last used it.

I used BluClad board to clad our plinth. It was around 450mm high so I covered it with brick slips. https://www.insulationshop.co/10mm_bluclad_60min_fire_resistant.html

I'm looking to do the same, but as a chimney breast is often structural, providing bracing to the wall, I will get a structural engineer to check it out first.

I just disconnect the hose from the tap and most of the water runs out. By the time it's cold enough to freeze I doubt there's much water left in the pipe to cause a problem.

The bungalow we had to dismantle had all the internal walls and ceilings lined with Chrysotile asbestos sheets. The roof was also covered with asbestos tiles. I took a sample and had it tested. I got several quotes to have the internal sheets removed and disposed of, which varied between £4000 and £13000. I ensured that the cheapest quote provided all the necessary paperwork. While the internal sheets were being removed I was kitted up on the roof removing all the tiles and bagging them up for the workers to dispose of. So it cost me £4000 plus the cost of the testing kit. To get a sample from a roof I would wear a mask and I would damp down the area thoroughly and break off a small piece and send it for testing. If removing the whole roof I would wear the full required PPE. There may be a local company who would take the bagged up and sealed sheets. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Asbestos-Sample-Only-Test-Testing/dp/B095PCZJ4X/

Why wouldn't you. We had several triple glazed units replaced after our windows were fitted, due to marks inside the units which were unacceptable.

We've got 'Sid the Scrap' around here and he'll collect it for nowt.

Short answer is no. The difference is far too obvious.

I used all Floplast in my last build because I wanted to be sure every fitting fitted together. Floplast do a good range, but no good if you've already started. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-solvent-weld-bend-135-white-50mm/29473

I did all the circuit design, first and second fix myself. The BCO told me they didn't do electrical certification so I sorted beforehand for my son in law's friend to carry out the required checks after each stage and issue the Part P Certificate.

It could be a Weeping Hemlock. They look like council kerbs. Not the prettiest edging and they weigh a lot. I would go for it, just ram down 200mm small rubble or type1 for a base and brick on top. Lay it all out dry first to see what it looks like. Good luck.

If the quoted 250% increase in efficiency of light conversion proves to be correct then perovskite panels would be significantly better than silicon. I can't see it happening in the near future though.

IIRC in the PHPP the default temperature is 20C throughout the house. We actually ran our PH with a temperature of 23C. I think, unless it's a typo, that you will need active cooling for a lot of the year, in order to keep part of the house at 10-12C unless you live a long way north.

It would be interesting if there was historical data going back over the last 50 years. IIRC many years ago the lower Thames was so polluted there was no wildlife in it and then years later they were saying salmon were seen in the Thames.

+1

We have a hose pipe ban and can only use drippers. We bought two master units which have a filter and pressure reducer in them. We have two areas and one has around 100m of 13mm pipe which feeds two rows of new hedging, and a few newly planted shrubs with the 2 litre per hour drippers screwed directly into the 13mm pipe. The other area uses around 15m of 13mm pipe with 4.6mm pipe 'T'eed off to sixteen pots using a mixture of adjustable and 2l/h drippers.

I've just installed two Gardena irrigation circuits in our garden. That was something I never thought I would have to do in Cornwall. https://www.worldofwatering.co.uk/

I would have thought the flints would whack down better with chalk in the mix as it will fill in the gaps like having fines with type1.