Gone West

We had an electricity cable over sailing our plot where we were to build our house and I asked the DNO to move it. They moved it by repositioning several poles which meant negotiating with the farmer and in the end it took the best part of a year to get it done. Probably took longer than necessary because that farmer always wants something for nothing. It didn't cost us anything.

It would be interesting to know how the shape as well as the size of the room affects the supply and extract interaction. Our kitchen/diner is only 6m x 3.2m.

I would wait until it's fully set.

That is exactly what we have in our kitchen/diner with an extract at the cooking end and a supply at the eating end. It seems to work without any problems. We did run the idea past ADM Systems before we decided to use it and they were quite happy.

@Mrs CFS I don't normally comment on this type of question because it's so subjective, but I think it's a great layout. If the MVHR can be installed so it runs quietly and you don't mind going into the loft to change the filters etc no problem.

Can't be that difficult as I did all mine . I've got layout drawings you could use as a basis for yours if you want. I found the building regs. extraction rates too high and after the house was signed off I reduced them to PH levels. Again I've got my tables of PH ventilation rates if they would be of any use to you.

@Dreadnaught There's a discussion here about MVHR duct routing where I have shown pictures of low level supply ducting. Is it possible to have a small flat ceiling at the top of the vaulted ceiling to conceal the ducting. I have the extract vents high and supply vents both high and low.

The instructions say do vertical first then horizontal but I've never tried it so I can't speak from experience.

We have vaulted ceilings and took the ducting up through the stud walls upstairs. We also have 250mm metal web joists and used 125mm ducting rather than a manifold system. The rectangular ducting we used was 204mm x 60mm.

Do you happen to know if it is necessary to have the install done under the MCS in order to receive the export payments after FiT ends.

Mine came with this:- FUGI SILICONE PROFILING TOOLKIT with 16 profile variations Provides clean and permanent seals. A releasing agent (soapy water) is not needed to apply the soft caulking mass (silicone). This process results in optimum adhesion and therefore prevents mould from forming underneath. Blemishes can easily be redone without removing the entire profile. INSTRUCTION: Remove old silicone carefully with a caulking knife with saw blade, for residue use a scraping blade. When removing old mildew stained grouts or caulks, wear a protective mask. On scratch-sensitive surfaces (acrylic or plastic) use a chemical silicone remover. First clean the surface then choose the right caulking profile and apply silicone on a distance of 60-120 cm. Now make sure that both FUGI edges touch both wall and floor, slightly press the FUGI and pull – always only use the smooth FUGI edge for spreading. Start again for a new line section behind the point at which you just stopped and repeat the process. To bridge across vertical grouts hold the FUGI at a slight angle and cross over the grout-line. By doing so you will keep a uniform grout-pattern profile. When working on corners, first start with the vertical wall grout lines and let them bond. Then proceed to the floor grout starting out of the corners in both directions. Clean the FUGI after usage with household paper towel. Yes I thought it should be with the chamfer towards you but it's better with the flat face towards you, counter intuitive I think.

Yes, I'm more creaky now than I was nine years ago .

When I first got mine I just used it without reading the instructions. It turned out the reason it wasn't working very well was that I was using it back to front .

Hi Kate, welcome to the forum. We looked at Baufritz at a show around ten years ago when we were researching for our build. We liked the concept, but not the price so in the end did our own thing. We designed the look, construction type, insulation etc to give us the U factors we wanted for our PH. As others on here have done you can purchase a PH timber frame package complete with foundations which is a lot easier than designing it all yourself. Have a look at the various blogs on here detailing members PH builds and good luck with your project.

I think the shape of the Fugi one with the chamfered back that is what makes it relatively easy to use.

I used to use masking tape and a flat blade screwdriver until I got a Cramer Fugi 5 piece kit. Although it's still tricky to use if I'm trying to do a basin behind a tap. https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/cramer-fugi-applicator-kit-5-piece-711919 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBT3kvbocbc

I had put a block of polystyrene around the 110mm shower waste pipe in my wet room before the concrete was poured. It wasn't as big as 300mm square but big enough to allow a sufficient drop of around 20mm over 1.1m. I just had to chip a few mm off around the edge of the hole. After it was tanked I fitted a straight connector to the pipe and then a McAlpine shower trap. https://mcalpineplumbing.com/wet-room-products/tiledstone-floor-gullies/tsg2t6ssc-75mm-water-seal-gully-vertical-outlet-tiled-or-stone-floors

I could never imagine that far ahead when I was asked that question.

We have Lindab guttering and the bracket spacing is 600mm centres.

I wish I'd had a chamfer tool nine years ago when doing all my soil pipes. To cut mine square I wrapped a sheet of A3 paper around the pipe, lining up the edges, and taped it on. I cut them by hand and then used a rasp to chamfer the ends. I used a smear of silicone grease on the chamfer when pushing it home.

We had a 90m2 Isoquick PH slab supplied and installed and it was £18538. This included 250mm compacted type1 and 50mm granite fines laid extending 700mm beyond the perimeter of the insulation. The insulation was 300mm thick and the concrete 200mm thick. This was installed onto a level site with all services ducting and soil pipes already laid. This was nine years ago and was the first to be installed in England so we probably paid a premium.

As an update, I had 54 hooks printed in white nylon by 3DPRINTUK, mentioned by @Temp . I am very pleased with the result. The whole process was completely painless as they keep you informed about your order and the price was reasonable.

HESH rounds were too easy to defeat so died out. Spent many times at live fire exercises on Salisbury Plain as well as trials at Potton Island and Shoeburyness. Amazing I can still hear.

The name doesn't ring a bell although I did know a couple of photographers at the Fort. I shared a flat with one of them in my youth but I still can't remember their names. That's what old age does for you.

That has brought back memories from the 80s of modelling long rod DU penetrators v complex armours along with many different CE and HESH rounds.