PeterW

Fit one of these and be done with it - quick and easy, and you could do it yourself for change of £600 https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/a1%2fiqool-smart12hp/electriq-a1iqoolsmart12hp-air-conditioner

panel has its own mounting screws etc so you fix it to the wall and then point due south unshaded and 45 degrees etc to get best sun.

PERT and PEX are broadly the same thing - a polyethylene pipe, the difference being PERT has a modified binder to deal with continuous high temperature (ie 55°C plus) which isn’t needed in most UFH installations. The AL layer is key to oxygen diffusion but has nothing to do with the flexibility or tightness of bends etc. 100mm spacing is close and will use more pipe and will also need “light bulb” turns toward the ends as the bending radius will not allow it to turn back on itself in 100mm. Bear in mind if you use 100mm you will get quicker response times as you can put more heat in, but it will still be the same amount of heat irrespective of the pipe spacing.

Maybe it was mild mannered Penry the Janitor..?? Or maybe it was Admin ..??

Reolink IOS app works with anything iOS 8 or later including iPad

No… it’s rechargeable and runs for a significant time plus has a solar panel so if you point the panel as close to south as you can it should be self maintaining. It is also wireless. So no holes through walls or draped around the place. If you want to dispense with the panel and drill a single hole through a wall it will take a USB cable but I don’t think it’s water tight if you do.

Register for the Stelrad STARS app and you can do room by room calcs.

Please don’t buy it..!! Go back, look at my link

@zoothorn here you go - wireless and a solar panel and a decent brand tbh for £80 (£60 with voucher) so you could start here. Reolink CCTV Solar Security Camera Outdoor with Rechargeable Battery, Wireless WiFi IP Camera, 1080p Time Lapse, PIR Motion Detection, 2-Way Audio, SD Card Storage, Argus Eco with Solar Panel https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07QQNRWK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_62M1WAH060PV26PJG5YB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Swann is absolute bottom of the pile and it may look cheap (until an installer adds ££££) but they are not good. Self install of a wireless system with power from the nearest socket may be best for you.

So firstly you should be insulating the MVHR pipes to stop condensation etc as that is a concern. You should also have some sort of insulation in the studs to stop thermal and noise transfer, and that could be something such as the frametherm or slightly denser acoustic insulation panels. You have 65mm of PIR/PUR in that build up already, external heat effect is going to be minimal I would expect.

Ok but why are you concerned about the decrement delay on a service space..? Fluctuation of that space will be irrelevant as it is probably 8-12°C warmer than the rest of the building due to its contents and in reality you want to keep the thermal performance better than the decrement performance so density becomes irrelevant.

Not round here ..!! One council has a policy where the extension needs to look like an extension, the neighbouring one encourages extensions to be in the style and character of the original building ..! They are also now going to the point of ignoring “street scene” and allowing large extensions on streets of brick finish houses to be rendered along with the rest of the building as a “statement”…

Yep the cost of the tank and controls will far outweigh any ROI that isn’t measured in decades. Worth seeing if you have anywhere to “hide” IBCs as they are a cheap option - I’ve buried them before in steel cages and concrete capped them but you need to be sure they will work for you like that.

Use Frametherm 35 instead - will be pretty similar and it’s a standard product. Never sure why architects specify random products at twice the price that are on ridiculous lead times.

Builder is correct unless it’s a box lintel. Eaves lintels have a shorter outer flange but all require blockwork on the inside. You could get BCO to agree to use a 140mm concrete lintel on the inner flange but it would depend on the span if you could get one long enough.

Sorry meant area code not exchange

As long as they stay on the same exchange then they should be portable.

GSI Southern have a policy that may help. https://gsi-insurance.com/products/household/unoccupied-property-insurance/

Eh..? Who told you that .??? There are TF that are 400 years old and more. I would expect 75-100 years min, and that’s conservative. On the other points, with good planning you can achieve all the perceived benefits with traditional construction methods as you can with TF, the only benefit is normally speed to wind and watertight.

So that’s the face into the cavity ..??

Are they Ytong 650’s as they are longer than a normal block. If that’s inside face then it’s crap - ask for it to be pointed and full perps as that’s about as sealed as a seive…

Cut it off at ground level. Drill a few holes into the stump that is left and then put a couple of these in. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eco-Plug-Max-Tree-Killer-Stops-Regrowth-of-Stumps-WITH-or-WITHOUT-Drill-Bit-/174580877798

Sadly far from “standard” as they range in imperial sizes and metric equivalents too ..! And it depends on the manufacturer as well as to the lips and bolting of joints. I would grind this out til the crack is clean and then use JB Weld or similar to repair the crack and then leave it. If it’s fully cracked all the way round then it’s not really repairable.

Staining is usually due to either an external factor (a lead or copper ridge leaching salts for example) or because cheap slate with high ferric content has caused staining due to rainfall.