PeterW

So we have a similar issue - need to get on to sort power to the site as currently attached to the neighbours house and that needs disconnecting ..! In the CIL forms it was a grey area as to whether utility connections counted as service ducts etc for the purposes of commencement so submitted the CIL commencement form (to lock in the discount) despite not having discharged the last two conditions. Quick call and they accepted it. Six weeks later and we have just had the conditions approval - now to submit the NMA..!! I would submit the CIL commencement form with a note saying you need to start non-build related tasks - such as fencing etc - and see what they say.

SDS do them in a variety of colours. http://www.sdslondon.co.uk/ceam-concealed-hinges/ceam-1129-3d-hinge-2540-kg.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw7svABRCi_KPzoPr53QoSJAABSvxff3jbw4Jc4hPxwboSTCG7BWx60fsd1bk5omr9HdKuaRoC2vfw_wcB

will be dry as a bone and any cracking would have happened by now. I'd just get tiling...

I thought the same..! Looked at the planning portal too and I can't see where any detailed plans were submitted for Lammas - makes you wonder if the council wanted them to fail.... This is on the Lammas pages about planning http://lammas.org.uk/planning/

How big are the tiles..?? usually get two from a tile unless they are only 150mm square

How long has the floor been down for and are there any expansion joints..?? IMHO - in my humble opinion...

12mm..

+1 to that

Do you mean a 3D hinge like a Tago or CEAM hinge..? They need to be perfectly accurate and you usually need a routing jig to do them - easy on a door, hard on a frame unless its on the bench. Most need either 3 or 4 on each door depending on weight and they are upwards of £20 each. Last CEAM jig I saw was £230 plus vat...

Its not as simple as that ! You need the heat loss per room to work out the spacings - I have some with 200mm, and some with 150mm...! You can always run it a bit cooler and maximise the COP on the ASHP - running it hotter as you've spaced out further may give you other issues

So that spacing is OK but that hallway cupboard floor will be warm ! Surprised they have gone for a serpentine flow though with multiple loops in the same zone.

Horobin ones are pretty good - and the bungs don't corrode as they are nylon ! http://www.plasticdrainage.co.uk/100mm-4-drain-test-kit-boxed-7952.html

Don't go with the cheapest for underground UPVC - Brett Martin is good, as is Polypipe. I would always use longest possible pipes, preferably 6m single socket lengths that on the face of it seem a little more expensive but you will find that they are much easier to handle and get the falls correct.

Close as in ~100mm apart..? if its only for a short length such as 2-3m then it will be fine but beware of overheating that area

Its got 101 uses but be careful as the edges can be sharp so if you pull anything through a loop of it then it can cut into it.

OK - this is the key paragraphs from the Historic England guidance and I've been round this loop with both G2 and G2* buildings : You will need Listed Building Consent for all work to a listed building that involves alterations, extensions or demolition and will affect its character as a building of special architectural or historic interest. Your local authority can help you to determine what the special interest of your home is. The requirement applies to all types of work and to all parts of the house covered by the listing if its special interest will be affected. The list entry will identify the principal building or buildings that are listed. These will be identified by the formal list entry and not the narrative description, unless there is ambiguity in the list. The whole of any principal building is listed, including the interior. These rules may mean that considerably more may be protected by the listing than is obvious from the list entry alone and there can often be considerable uncertainty as to what is covered. This apparent unhelpfulness in the rules is mitigated somewhat by the fact that listed building consent is only required if works affect the special interest in the relevant structure. It may be unclear whether a structure is protected, but it may be clear it holds no special interest even if it is. Group value should obviously be considered in assessing the special interest of ancillary buildings. Back to the OP comment - they have asked for white painted timber windows - they CANNOT say what that timber is.

Short answer... NO... Longer answer .... Discharge from a digester is approved by EA based upon the amount of effluent leaving the discharge pipe, not the tank (who knew....) So if you add to it, then you will increase your discharge rate and "could" have problems with EA. Best advice is ring EA - they can be helpful ..! They may suggest just running a second pipe next to the first - this doesn't need to be 110mm UPVC and could just be cheap unperforated land drain.

Errrr.... Loop the Willis across the supply and return of the manifold. Need a fill loop and an expansion vessel (probably no more than 10 litre). Set the rod stat on the Willis to about 45c. Room thermostat calls for heat, trip a contactor/SSR with the immersion on and the pump on the manifold should easily circulate the heated water.

Possibly ... the heads are fairly standard although the length of the valve stem and oddly the screws holding the head on can be different. Is the valve stem easily moved ..? If you can wait then order one next day from BES as they are half that price.

If you buy blocks then ensure they are properly wrapped or covered as if they soak up water then they can freeze and crack.

You need to be very careful with Grading and its uses - I advised on a G2 recently where the Council were saying they "needed" to be consulted on "all aspects" of the changes. Politely but firmly the council were advised that we would not be consulting them when it came to replacing floorboards... Grading ONLY applies to the items listed in the grading notices - I looked at a house where only half of it was graded as there had been an extension added post the grading and the extensions was not graded. I've also seen one where the external garden wall and iron railings were listed but the house was not ! Listed Building Officers and Conservation Officers love to think they have carte blanche to insist on you doing things that they have no jurisdiction over. The first place you should start is with the grading notice for the property - that should list out what has to be considered when you are doing any work on the property.

@Nickfromwales if you're putting coving up does it not make sense just to leave a gap at the top and fill it ..?

Welcome ..! if you just want direct heating at 2-3kw you would be better with a Willis Immersion unit and let the pump just circulate through that. You should be able to get one for £35 or so and they are easy to fit.

You can use 10 or 15 but if it's only to a single tap then 10 would be fine. What are you doing about drainage ..?

One piece of advice on this ... DON'T ask the planners ...!!! Other than "white painted timber" they cannot tell you what to use if it's not going to be seen !! Use what is best for you from an economic and longevity perspective and just give them what they want - a white painted timber window ..!!!