PeterW

So as an M&E consultant, I can tell you a lot are independent and aren’t swayed by suppliers. We even ran a black list of products we wouldn’t recommend based on previous client feedback when the product didn’t deliver. There is also an element of client responsibility in all of this - if you don’t give your consultant a proper list of requirements for how you will use / live in the house; don’t give makes or manufactures of showers, taps and other connected appliances; and change your mind 3 times about what heating controls you want, then it’s down to you when it doesn’t all hang together. We were once presented with a thermostat that didn’t work, and client wanted “these in every room”… no labels, no boxes, no clue as to manufacturer as it had half the bits missing and yet they were “disappointed” that we couldn’t identify it so they could have them … There are hundreds of thermostats out there and yet we were supposed to guess what this was … And that is the reason why we don’t work with end clients any more !!!

It will be deeper and wider than you expect. It will also be more complex as you can’t self lay gas or electric so you will need multiple trenches. They will also require the 3 main services to be separated by at least 650mm across a trench, and the drainage may need to be at least 1200mm down if the BCO deems it to be a roadway. This may cause you some serious issues with invert levels, so you may want to consider how you could connect drainage to your existing property. Is there any way you can lose the gas connection and just go with electric and water in the lane ..? You then have a chance at 750mm straight down the centre 350mm apart and limited risk to the properties either side.

@WWilts not sure what you drew the image in though but the scale is substantially out .. the measurements say M not mm…

Nice clean and tidy site !

@Carrerahill think we both posted at the same time !

Is it a generation meter or a grid tie export meter ..?? Would explain the difference that you have only exported 0.9kWh of the 280kWh you have generated

Get it done using an in roof system and the cost of the slate will be offset by the cost of the panels.

Not if you are alternating the studs - will need to be 300mm c/c

No - you dont want pipe under a WC, shower tray or a bath as it can dry out the traps and also cause issues with fixing things down.

I was posting the same as @ProDave - manifold I would put in either the utility or boot room as they can both use the waste heat from multiple pipes. Agree on stairs too - designer wouldn’t know they are open plan. I’d also get the plans annotated with any WCs or showers, and also any fixed cabinets properly - did you provide a CAD file..?

Utter tosh which is usual from that magazine ..!! Tell about 1m households in Norway they don’t work when it’s cold …

Have you got a photo of this light ..? May be able to come up with some ideas

no chance from 3W - you’ll need to be 10-12W to get that so you’re looking at COB type bulbs. How many bulbs do you need ..?

Loads of E12 bulbs on Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07T6L3YJD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NGDEE0J4TJEC434PE5FE

The UValue is determined by the air ratio in the wool - compress it and you reduce the value. So 300mm in a 220mm gap will perform worse.

These maybe a decent swap https://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/crompton-led-7w-globe-e27-220-240v-dimmable-2700k-opal

As above - look how the flashing on the bottom of the Velux windows is done, the lead should be the same.

That’s fine but what on earth is going on with the lead flashing ..??!! That needs some serious work.

If you have sleepers then I would make four T shaped legs by chopping them down and using some decent timberlok type screws to hold them together. If you face the leg of the T inward it will stop rocking. Painted with black paint such as bitumen paint they will be near invisible.

Yep.. you created the issue ..!! Drop it back to 35°C and it will be fine and not move. That crack is tiny and using proper flexible adhesive it won’t move at normal temperatures.

That is really bad for 2 years - you need to do a descale (safely) and then get it rebuilt. Not sure a single litre was good enough - inhibitor is cheap and I would add a lot more.

(Caveat - seen the use of a VCL annotated on the plans now !) You’re using a hygroscopic material below the ground level and it will have a fairly challenging environment to maintain its breathability and it will be in a semi-sealed location so it will not work as anticipated. Looking at the detail, there is a real need to do a condensation analysis as you have a non standard design. Thermafleece only gained its BBA cert (02/3950 which was subsequently withdrawn) using a fully ventilated cavity on the outside - you’re not doing that with the design you have.

It doesn’t work like that - you need to get a full analysis done as if you don’t you have the issue that moisture could go into the fabric not out of it.

You don’t need your panel to be below ground level though to achieve that. that won’t work. And I don’t think you should be trusting the BCO on this ..! I’m going to guess you have limited building experience but come from an engineering background ..? Have you looked at product liability insurance …??

Assume you’re going with the self balancing ones ..?