PeterW

Toolstation do these in different lengths of barrel

If your time is free then this works, factor in the time you spend at minimum wage doing this sort of research and at £7.85 an hour you may soon find it’s cheaper to just use the merchants for what they do best. Give them a set of plans, let them do a QS from it and give you their best pricing.

@LA3222 out of interest did you try the same method with a local BM for the whole build to start with to see what their pricing would be ..??

How long does consent last for? By default, consent is valid for 2 years beginning with the date of its grant. However, the authority may decide to set a different time limit with a condition in the consent. A tree owner may use an unused and unexpired consent obtained by a former owner. If any specified time limit expires, and the tree owner wishes to carry out a prohibited activity in respect of protected tree, a further application for consent has to be made. Paragraph: 098 Reference ID: 36-098-20140306

It’s a crown lift on a tree with a TPO so it’s normally 2 years from grant of permission to carry the work out.

Yep spot on..

Prefer using stuff like back inlet gullies Back Inlet gully Allows you to rod if needed and also empty buckets etc

He never was very good at sarcasm....

@Jude1234 one thing to be aware of is that it takes quite a while for a house to stabilise so whilst you may have got the air temperature up, the fabric of the building may not have reached equilibrium especially if you are pushing short sharp pulses of heat into the building. The decrement delay of the insulation will affect the swing of temperature too. May be worth setting it on constant but at say 18c for a week or so and seeing how it settles.

You can’t drop from a 50 straight into a 110 underground. Needs something like a bottle trap with a back inlet and a Y branch into the main drain otherwise you will her smell issues if it all dries out.

I’d be very surprised if their contract didn’t stipulate no liquidated damages or liabilities - not unusual tbh now and supply contacts are usually very tight on this sort of thing.

How much from the pole to the house in distance ..?? If the whole of the transformer cost is being passed to you then you should be able to argue that either they give you the full capacity, or if it’s shared in the future that you get a rebate on the costs. For comparison, I paid £1,300 for a 4m connection from a main no more than 450mm down in an unmade road ...

I used this Supplier and never lost a patient yet

Who balanced the MVHR ..? And how many rads upstairs ..??! It should take a sparky about 30 mins to fit a panel heater to a wall - you are only probably talking about needing 300-400w so these would be fine. (That’s just the first one I found ..!)

I wouldn’t mess with the brown stuff if it’s covering the whole of the ceiling below - to do it properly with PIR you would need to take it all out then put it back and you wouldn’t want to do that !!

Lights.co.uk have plenty of options. LED Ceiling light

Don’t change the fluffy stuff - just check it is spread properly..! you don’t need to screw the frame in tbh - got a table or chop saw you can make wedges on ..?? make the frame to fit the best way, then use pairs of wedges to hold it and then foam round the edges - will hold it tight when it goes off

No difference other than BuildBase are quoting full retail RRP (that no-one ever pays...) I now use PipeStock for everything thanks to @JSHarris who put me on to them

It can’t go underground and will have 22mm in and out so probably best as soon as you come into the van. 10 mins to fit as it’s a reducer and you could just vent back to the ground below

@epsilonGreedy sounds like you have 4-5 bar which will need dropping for both the van and the house. I've got a spare PRV that will take it down to 3 bar but you would need to wrap it well in insulation if its not inside the van over winter.

They have misread both dimensions, including the ones that they added... I would go back with the actual dimension, the dimension between wall plates, and then the dimensions from the plans (both theirs and yours) What it will show is what they have supplied doesn't actually meet any of these and they need to re-supply...

Worth looking at Economy 10 to see how that would work. Get an E10 meter installed by SSE and then switch to a cheaper provider. Fairly easy then to time all the heat inputs however I would think that there will be some supply side rewiring only. Worst case would be E7 and top the TS up at night.

Get the joiner to check Howdens as they have their oak doors at around £60 at the moment. Also do an FD30 in the same.

That’s ridiculous ..!! Need a decent 3 phase ASHP and then move to a different supplier ...!

Should be dry - I would get a couple of industrial dehumifiers for a week and get the place properly dried out then bleach solution before any paint.