PeterW

Start with Groove/Groove against the wall and work off that. That leaves a tongue on both edges, looks neater by the wall and it’s easier to stand a board up to put a thin bead of D4 into a groove when it’s upright. Work to the end, lay a spare full board face up over the last one laid, another on top but butted to the wall. Scribe a line on the one that is on top of the last fitted one, and that’s your cut line. Now take the spare bit, go back to the beginning of the new row and use it to start again as long as it goes over a minimum of 2 joists. Glue, rinse, repeat ...

So you need to go to CCF direct for it - TP just buy it in and CCF (actually part of TP group) ship it to them. CCF are cheaper and do it all and deliver with a wagon with a Mounty - better than your average clown with a Hiab... Fermacell doesn’t need a bead for a shadow gap as long as you use the factory edge. They are so sharp you can cut yourself on them..! FST just fills the surface of the board to “glue” down the newspaper fibres on the surface, it has no discernible thickness. Tough..?? Get a sample and hit it with a hammer and make a decision ...

@Diablo Not sure what your reference to micro piling around the underground service pipes means ..? A boiler weighs no more than 180kg full load - if you used a standard council slab, that’s a 3x2 2” plain concrete slab - bedded on a weak sand and cement mix then it would be fine. You wouldn’t need to dig out more than 4-6” at most. No need for huge groundworks with an external boiler - keep it simple ..!

I disagree with that ... it’s no harder than taper edge boards with a tape and skim finish. In some instances it’s easier as you can create clean edges with a router and bearing bit - especially on corners. Right .... depends is the answer ..! Firstly it is very heavy - it needs two people to manage boards and you also need a board lifter to do ceilings. You can’t do it on your own ..! One of the benefits is that you don’t need to join on a stud - you use JointStik to bond the edges together, this is a cross between D4 glue and Gripfill and comes with a custom nozzle that puts a bead on the edge of the board. These joints are strong, but you need to leave them to dry properly before you do anything else. There are two ways to fit Fermacell to timber, either using the correct screws or by using crown staples. Screws hold better when the timber is uneven but leave a larger hole to fill. Staples are quick and easy and leave a very small gap to fill - very easy to do but if there is stress on a board they may move with only staples. Fermacell is very easy to repair though. If you cut a hole in the wrong place with a hole saw, or even cut an access hole, you can just glue it back in place, filler in the gap, sand and it’s done - you can’t tell it’s been removed. It is also surprisingly easy to cut. Fermacell sell a knife designed for the job and it works on the the score and snap method and is very good. It leaves a slight ragged edge but this takes filler really well so isn’t a problem. When it comes to filling all the screw holes or edges, you will need their filler. It’s much better than anything else and sands to a fine finish too. It’s better put on with a wide spatula or trowel, and it goes a long way. FST - or fine surface treatment - is the oddest product I’ve ever used ..!! Fermacell show it being applied with a squeegee, I use a 12” plastering trowel and you can do a 5m wall in probably 15 minutes. You put the thinnest coat possible on - the boards change from light grey to a slightly darker grey and that’s it ..! A quick sand over with a 120grit sanding board and you can be painting less than an hour after applying. The wall will look like it’s full of filler and screws etc, but a coat of paint and it’s all gone and you have a perfect flat wall. I’ve gone from a stud wall to ready for paint in 24 hours - that’s impossible with board and skim, and pushing it with TE/taping. The downsides are that the dust will destroy any power tool that you use to cut it. Circular saws or jigsaws create a lot of dust, routers are magic for cutting holes for back boxes or making perfect corners but all of them will die in a ditch with the dust. Buy cheap Titan ones and keep going back for the warranty claims ..! Fermacell is very good for perfect square and flat surfaces - anywhere that you want curves or anything that needs blended angles then you possibly need to look at something else or look at how to get skim coats applied to certain sections. I priced a job recently that would have been £4K in Fermacell, and was just less than £2k in plasterboard and skim in terms of materials. When it came down to it, the labour costs were double for the board and skim as there was a lot of curve and detail work but the whole lot came out about the same price in total. If you can DIY and have square rooms etc then you can get a very good finish with Fermacell that is comparable to a skimmed plaster finish with no wet trade delays.

A medium sized ReallyUseful box with a slot in the front for post works well. They are watertight and you can at least see when stuff has been delivered. Other option is get your first gate post built and then build one into that as you go as a permanent feature - one less job to do when you come to finishing off and the delivery drivers get used to where it is.

Before consigning it to the grave, you did just try and take it off then put it back on the back plate after 30 seconds. ..? This sometimes clears them.

According to the tree survey by the certified arboricultural consultant, there were 8 of them, at 4-5m.... I took 13 out, the minimum was 7m, max 9m..!!

Now that’s not a chipper.... This is a chipper ...!! Tracked diesel Linddana TP 160 ... the 160 refers to the maximum branch size, this is it chewing an 8m tall Leyllandi... 2A9ADDBA-1B43-4005-9907-A307845A795C.MOV

Don’t forget that both your treatment plant and your rainwater will both need soakaways. These are sized from the percolation test, that’s your starting point. If you have good permeable soil then you can have a much smaller soak away and drainage field - think how the pair will work on the plot. Another option is the drainage cubes but I’m not sure if they have been certified for leach field use.

@recoveringacademic if you have a Toolstation near you they are cheaper Screws And whilst you’re there, 4 bottles of this lovely D4... Glue Bead into each groove, let it foam and then slice off with a floor scraper. Oh, and wear trousers you don’t like as they will be trashed by the end of it ..!!

Get a price on Egger - it’s so much nicer to work with, you glue all the edges and you can actually mop the dust off it as it’s waterproof.

Nothing stopping the pumps and blenders etc being at the lowest point, but running the manifold upstairs. Put a manifold with an additional port on it, or fit the pipes with tees at the manifold and fit auto air bleeds as that is the highest point.

Yep. Screw insulated plasterboard to it.

I still lead weld using my dads old stuff - iron must be 60 years old at least ..? Roofers wanted a whole roll of 900mm lead to finish a dormer peak and I pointed out the offcut they had left would cut and weld to size .... suffice to say I ended up doing it and they couldn’t work out how you couldn’t see the join..!

If he’s good then he can rip and 8x2 down to two 4x2 wall plates and that is something else sorted ..! I built a temporary staircase from rafter offcuts and spares - was more solid than the proper one ..!!

So... if you had the builder build with brick piers at the 2m and 4m points - just a brick depth, to give you some strength then you could use the 6x2 as rafters. They will be about 3.7m long, depending on the rafter tail so plenty of length. Will need to make at 600 centres, so 10 sets of rafters goes through 20 lengths. The ridge board will need to be an 8x10 so that is another gone, and I would pair up the ones over each pillar to make an A Frame at ceiling height, and then put a 2m offcut on every pair 1/3rd way down as a collar truss Should keep the joiner busy..!!

How many lengths have you got ..? And is the brickwork up yet ...??

How big is the garage..? May need to buy a ridge board but 6x2 is ample for anything up to 3.6m spans at up to 45 degrees.

Stick built means from lengths of timber on site, nailed and cut to size. Usually make them to fit openings etc, clad in OSB and then put into place. Measure and do the next...

That's a bit steep... Have you tried Brauncwell Quarry at Sleaford..? Other option is ring National at Wragby and find out where they are working locally. MOT1 is just a grading - its basically 40mm to dust so anything that will go through a 40mm grid. There is a really good link to what is included here

Tend to find that planings become one big mass with enough compaction as the tar sticks the bits together. The trick is to compact properly - do it in layers and use a heavy roller not a whacker plate

@Jude1234 as @Cpd says, compaction is the key and a whacker plate may not work so hire a roller for a weekend and you'll be fine.

I know these as soakers too - detail here https://leadsheet-autocad.co.uk/downloads/abutment-with-soakers-and-step-flashings-slates-2f/

The Festool one has three silicone type beads running down the back - doesn't tend to move anywhere once you put it down on a flat surface.

Hi They are called road planings - if you're getting them in bulk, £7-10 / tonne delivered on 20 tonners is going rate around you. Give Carl Wright Haulage a call in Hucknall as they are usually shifting them