PeterW

I tend to release the sleeve slightly with both the Bosch and the Makita to make sure the bit is properly home. Quick check though is point it down and pull the trigger ... soon falls out, especially if you’re up a ladder ... ask me how I know ..!

Make the joists narrower as 18mm is “just” enough when you use it at 400mm centres. Go to 300mm and you will be fine. In your situation I think that only adds 2 joists so not a lot of extra cost. The big gain is glueing the floor to the joists with a D4 polyurethane glue which basically makes the whole floor and joist structure one solid piece.

Did you pull the sleeve back before you locked the bit into the chuck ..?? SDS should move in and out but not wobble ...!

Makita do Nemesis bits that will also go through rebar and they’ve got sizes up to 32x450mm. I’ve got a 25mm x 300mm one and its a beast but goes through engineering bricks like butter. It was £30 from memory though ..!!

I’ve just used Bostick grey flex from Wickes with black limestone and it looks good.

Upstairs doesn’t need the circulation space and I would include it into the bedroom. Move the shower to where the hot tank is, make the whole top area a nice en-suite bedroom.

You seem to be suggesting a floating first floor that structurally and technically would be a nightmare to build as you would need to create a lot of lateral restraint and also complex steel. I would go for a single timber frame structure that is then clad with a render board and then rendered. Quick, simple and cheap to do. Window in each elevation and one door. Can you share the plans for this and then can give you an idea of costs / complexity.

But which standard ..?? I’ve seen loads of PoE cameras that turn out to need 12v not 48v, and there is an injector and splitter with each camera. They are essentially using the spare pairs for 12v but doesn’t help me when I have 48v PoE switches.

@Neil Samuels how far are you wanting to move ..? Plenty of decent sized plots in the East Midlands area that are accessible to the East Coast mainline, A1 and M1 but at a third of the cost of anything south of Milton Keynes.

The blown cellulose stuff with the membranes is exactly the same - just not as wet as this system as it needs to flow and not stick to the walls. It relies on a couple of products - not just water - that both make it fire resistant and also mould/insect resistant. It used to be a borax based solution but think that has now changed.

Just don’t..!!! They are disgusting and will make stuff smell ..!!

That is superb ..!! Got any close up photos of the construction ..? And what track system have you used ..?

You can use pretty much anything to bond, I prefer the Fischer RCASV capsules and studs and you’ll only need a pack of 10.

Afternoon. Wall plate resin bonded to the wall - not the plasterboard - is your way to go and will be fine. 47x122 would do it on the 2200 span assuming it’s actually 2100 when you’ve taken the wall plates off but tbh you will struggle to find it in a merchant and 6x2 is easier and probably just as cheap as it’s standard sized. What is the flooring going in the bathroom as if you’re going for tiles you could get away with using 18mm ply and glue and screw it to all of the joists and it will be bombproof.

Unlikely however .... in your situation I would use 3 or 4 smaller cylinders such as pretty standard 140 litre hot water tanks. You can get these pretty cheap, but you can daisy chain these - and their immersions - to an immersun or similar. Also easier to source and to plumb in and locate.

Yep as the seals could have gone on the inner core or the steel has corroded.

Tee into a 20/25mm MDPE stub MDPE to 15mm copper gate valve 15mm pipe Double check valve 15mm pipe wall plate elbow tap Allows you to isolate the tap in winter and also the DCV meets water regs

@redtop sounds like finding a decent structural engineer is your next step. What is the design you’re looking to build ..? How many storeys etc ..??

Never seen their in roof system but have seen their parking bay system and this looks like a modification of that - the sheet (or similar) was used below panels to keep the connections from damage. Not sure about the edge flashing design or whether it’s just poor instructions. And I would also want a section drawing as from what I can see, those panels will be sat ~80mm up from the battens..?? That’s more than the GSE/Easyroof systems by a long way.

There are a lot of US based books but the principle is the same - use standard sizes such as 8x4 boards and make plenty of jigs so everything is exactly the same. You can make a larsen truss jig and then use standard timber and a nail gun to put it together. Get a local timber merchant to cut your sheet material down to say 200mm and then cut the pieces to the lengths you want. Your only issue may be building control but if you can get an SE to sign off a design then you build to that. Good luck ..!!

Are they concerned that the stairs are open all the way up ..? If so, will they let you put a fire door at the bottom of the second flight of stairs .?? other option is to fit intumescent strips into the doors and then paint them with an intumescent coating.

Only way to check is put a level on it, but if it is leaking condensate then the whole flue needs replacing.

That install is fine. Is that in a bathroom ..?? it could be that the metal sleeve is condensing steam in the bathroom and that is what you are seeing. Bends tend to be plastic - straight connector is steel.

That is for a garage, there would be no design load on the bottom chord. This is for a a room in roof so the bottom chord is load bearing.

I can guarantee when you have a problem, none of them will admit liability .!!! You are creating a system, and I would even be wary that it meets building regulations as that will not have any type of certification or BBA etc. I hope you are joking ..??? There are specialist companies who do this - you need big diamond saws that do multiple bricks at a time. You can’t cut 60000 slips on a wet bench....