PeterW

One for the insurance company - how old is the house ..?

the 901 is still £20, the 801 is £16 which is just a lower powered one and not as many bands etc you’ll still need a way of managing DNS and guest networks etc and it just seems a lot of work to save £40…

I wouldn’t do connections to the cabins - too much hassle. Just install a pair of these at either side of the amenity block and job done. https://www.ebuyer.com/828322-tp-link-eap225-outdoor-ac1200-wireless-mu-mimo-gigabit-outdoor-access-point-eap225-outdoor Use the Omada controller and you’ve got the ability to do multiple guest networks / SSIDs etc. Range outside is a good 50-60m with no drop off.

never seen it used for that but it’s HT process pipe insulation by the look of it - at £30 a length though, vermiculite is cheaper by a long way !!!

Why not just build with 140mm blocks..? Quick and easy and tbh they are nicer than hollows and you don’t lose the internal space of a 9” block

You can’t use rockwool with a convoluted stainless liner - it isn’t rated for those temperatures or that installation. It has to be vermiculite and it’s about the whole length as tbh it will need it as a flue will be 20°C max brick temperature so you will get condensation. Vermiculite also helps to support the flue in the chimney void. Are you thinking of installing this yourself ..? You’ll need BCO sign off and tbh most just refer you back to a HETAS installer as it’s easier for them and with an old install they would be my point of call as well.

Why not just remortgage the current house and release the funds based on affordability, then do the mortgage switch / move when you finish the new build ..? You'll need to tell them (Santander) at some point that you’ve annexed off part of the garden as it could affect the value and the LTV but I expect their bigger issue will be affordability on the extended loan facility first.

OK so this sounds like old wives tales and here say ..! I’ve never seen it, and tbh it could be that your builder just wants to do it how he’s always done it. also, for beads you need to keep the cavity clean and that’s not simple so again it could be that he wants an easy life…

Depends on the roof size. It also needs to be properly designed and structured. If there is any steps or other stress points in the design then they need to be built in to allow any differential movement. There are some out there that think that the use of EPDM allows a roof to move and stretch more than any other product which is untrue - it will stretch to a point but when properly bonded down it can tear. A proper 2 layer GRP (ie 2 layers of 450gsm CSM) will bond to the underlying OSB and become a single structural membrane - it will move with the structure but remember that most movement will be downward compression/ settlement on a TF so it will all move together.

Something weird about that manifold and how it’s piped as there is a thermostatic valve but the pump is on the wrong end ..? Unless the lockshield on the top rail is closed it looks like the pump just circulates across the manifold rails…? Any pipework begin the pump ..?

Naughty @Nickfromwales ..!!! That’s advertisers bollox to make you buy their foam ..!! But like you, never heard of it, never seen it and tbh it’s inedible as it is polystyrene balls !!!

As long as there is an external grade door between the two it doesn’t affect the building warrant or regulations ..? Why are they saying it isn’t allowed.?

150mm from top of pipe but must be encased in concrete. Unlikely to freeze with a decent fall (ie 1:40)

They are ok but don’t forget to put the isolator in

How..???? I’ve buried hundreds of these as has @Nickfromwales and I don’t think I’ve ever seen an issue… Use the correct insert, don’t try and use chrome pipe as tails, and then just clip back and plaster over. If you’re worried about pipe movement you can wrap the pipe with fibre insulation as plaster bonds onto it.

Why does it ..?? Once fitted, unless you are actively removing the fitting nothing is moving and nothing will “loosen” the fitting. Speedfit are a whole different ball game as they have an external collet release.

Next line down “Where the pipe is totally restrained in a concrete floor (e.g. as underfloor heating), the stresses are so low that they are absorbed by the material” Never had an issue and tbh it’s usual that the pipework exits from the top of the wall into a void anyway.

For ..??? I tend to make sure they don’t move as then the pipework is fixed securely and doesn’t crack the plaster. A 22mm nail in pipe clip fits over a 15mm fitting nicely behind the collet.

Why not..? Tend to wrap a bit of masking tape over the release plate and the joint but if it’s solid then I don’t worry and they get clipped in and plastered over.

Seriously … get the Zinniser mould paint, paint the reveals and invite him over for tea and hobnobs… do you have the electricians sign off cert for the power install etc ..?

Whats “very hungry”, who specced it and why are you going ASHP when you’ve got gas available ..?? Workshop - not on the plans, do you mean the garage..? 3Ph kit (mill / lathe etc) or just thinking you need a lot ..? Who’s plugging that lot together ..?? Is it you..? As…. It’s not that easy, and you need a decent plan on how it works - wired vs wireless for stats etc, multiple switch scenarios for heat and so on. Would have been better asking the milkman, but let’s move on … what’s your heat loss calculation as this doesn’t match with the ASHP requirements ask your electrician - this is not something you need to make a mess of as it could / will be expensive to correct. Personally - and now seeing the plans - I would run a pair of phases to the side of the garage externally and then run the car chargers off a phase each. If you’re desperate to go 3Ph charging as you find the money for a Tesla that’s a different issue, but tbh I’m struggling to see how you’re above 100A on a phase here. Is this only for cooking..?? If so.. just go get an induction hob, and save yourself about £10k on install costs.

It’s there for removal of water vapour and heat rises hence why they are mounted high up. Without it you may get mould at a higher level.

Depends on DNO but I would build a permanent kiosk for it where it is now and you don’t have 2 sets of connection charges. You also can’t run Waveconn inside a building unless it’s ducted in their spec and I doubt they will approve under a slab as there is no access. Why 3 phase into the house ..? You only need a single phase in the house, use an external kiosk and split your phases (assuming car charger etc here) at the DNO kiosk. Also, yellow corrugated is Gas not electric so you need the correct ducting which is usually either black or red for electric Water can be run in either 110mm soil with a couple of slow bends on the ends, Gas has to be run where it can be seen/inspected OR can be run in a ventilated duct using TracPipe. Question would be though what are you using it for as your bigger issue will be a boiler flue - if that’s near a wall then bring the gas in on the same wall, don’t go under the slab. that’s internal installation - ie after the meter - so one for your GSR installer but again, TracPipe and ventilated ducts How much power ..? And again, if you split at the DNO meter box you can use armoured to the shed. Water pipe should be 750mm for frost protection, 20mm MDPE in 63mm duct would be fine. Send waste to nearest IC. Question would be who has done the M&E design for this build as this all should be planned already..? And questions such as 3ph etc and the what / how are for DNO as they vary by region what they will allow.

Ok so that must be a treatment plant not a septic tank - Chuck one of these in and it will start up properly https://septictank-shop.co.uk/product/starter-kit-home-sewage-treatment-system/

Have a look at John Lewis own brand - decent warranty and rebadged AEG which is pretty decent for the price tag. The JL pyro oven we have is the best I’ve had in a long time .