PeterW

Got a photo from inside the attic space ..?

Mapei 1210 isn’t hard enough to be a wearing surface so you should be topping it off with something else such as ultra TT or another product. Paint will stick to the current one, but poorly, and it will dint and chip quickly.

3/8” sounds really small - is that the internal diameter ..? If the 3/8” is already connected I wouldn’t disturb it but just cut the 20mm and get a 20-25mm connnector - short restriction won’t harm it.

If you want to lose an hour or two .... try this site.. Everything from a simple dripper to Wifi enabled smart controllers ..!! https://www.waterirrigation.co.uk

most of the systems are battery now - even saw a solar one at one of the shows which was very clever. Guy down at the allotmentS has one on a car battery and a small solar panel on his shed roof, it pumps the water out of his water butt into the greenhouse mist and watering system.

where ..?? There is no requirement in the Building Regulations unless it is a business, trade or other commercial premise ..?

If it is blue MPDE then it is likely to be 25mm, it could be 20mm but surprising if it is as it tends to be used less for mains supplies. Pipestock hold all you need - is this an external standpipe as it will need insulating and preferably have its own isolator.

You won’t need planning but you will need building control approval. I would be looking at solar thermal or PV and an ASHP to heat it, and put in some sort of MVHR (a commercial one) to keep the air moving. You really need some sort of light weight well insulated structure as you don’t want to be digging foundations close to the pool as you will create problems. All this depends on budget too - £40-80k could soon get swallowed depending on the design.

£3K gets you a long way toward a new unit. I would replace it with something supportable.

I hate autocorrect ... ??‍♂️

Got one of these going free if anyone wants it ..? I’m using Arduino / RPi more than anything now so it’s surplus to requirements. https://www.st.com/en/evaluation-tools/nucleo-f411re.html

As good practice, any pipe under 450mm depth should really be concrete encased, even under pedestrian areas. It is not a big cost and will give piece of mind.

The reason I asked about SEng designs is you said you had no more hence the query on the joints. Ok so if you are going it alone then you need to work smart. Have you got a proper steel framing square as you will need it. Use that to make a jig for the wall panels so they end up plumb and square, do not trust that the sheets of OSB are perfect and check every one. For safety, you’re going to need to do the upstairs floor slightly differently - fit enough joists to allow you to lay temporary floor panels, if they are 400 centres that will be a minimum of 14 from below and then fit a board either end and woot off that. Keep laying and fixing the boards temporarily, but don’t be tempted to jump between them or slide boards around to work on. I’m assuming this is all nailed together ..? Paslode..?

KVM doesn’t share data ports so it’s fine. It’s a hardware switch so you’ll only ever be using one device at a time. Your risk comes when you choose to swap data between them using USB keys

4:1 and measure your plasticiser into the water bucket as you don’t need a lot.

Unless you’ve played with all the settings, Loopcad is very pessimistic when it comes to calculating heat loads. I would go with 200mm as you can always turn down the flow temp, turning it up you will stand the risk of overshooting your target temperature and end up with a very warm house.

Ok so if I’m reading this correctly @redtop you’ve still got another full panel system to build on top of that steel frame that is there ..? You’ve also got joists to add to make the floor up ..? First and foremost, you’ll need to understand some more on those designs as the key joints between steelwork and the timber joists are identified as being “to structural engineers design” so you need to know what that is. From looking at it, there seems to be a timber infill into to the face of the steels, and then a proprietary joist hanger but that would need the engineer to confirm - you can’t guess that sort of thing from looking at a drawing. It looks like the floor hangs below the top of the steels which is unusual - I wonder if you could potentially redesign with a timber ring beam on top of the steel and reduce the topside wall panel height slightly to compensate. I would seriously get an SEng involved though - the BCO will ask for the engineers details and if you’ve paid for it then it’s rightfully yours.

If you put a couple of drops of Osmo Top clear satin on it you will be able to see if the wood takes the oil and changes colour. If not, order a few Osmo tint samples and get a small paint brush and just dab a bit of colour into the white spots until they start to fade. This is the issue with wooden work surfaces though - they don’t take nicely to stains .!!

Backer thermostats go to 65c and come as both non cutout and dual cutout versions. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/IHST11slashC.html There is no reason to store water at 75c and you’re into the territory of making it unsafe to work on any tank or pipe work as that is hot enough to cause a burn. Also worth bearing in mind that ordinary polyethylene pipe insulation starts to degrade when it is kept above 80c for long periods of time.

You can get self leveling compounds that are suitable as a wearing surface. And apparently the trick to getting the floor level with it and very few joins is mix the compound 4 or 5 bags at a time in a plastic dustbin ..!!

Popular in Italy and their brassware manufacturers make loads of them. Isolator Valve

12mm EPS layer first and reduce the PIR slightly as the EPS will crush down

I would insulate all walls regardless as it is a small cost and a huge benefit

Keep your own money in the bank and draw down to lock in your offer, even if it is only £20 for groundworks

Are you looking coloured or white uPVC...? or Aluclad..? Budget...??