PeterW

If it’s going to be a gym, have you considered putting insulation under the floor ..? Even with a. 150mm reinforced slab you would be able to stick a car on it with EPS under it.

Correct ..! It is about the fibre / thermal insulation not the electrical insulation

It’s not an issue ... if the whole length was wrapped in insulation then you have to de-rate the cable but you’re not. Fill the gaps with insulation ...

Be aware the quality of those can be suspect and I've seen one fail a drain pressure test. Better option is to use the correct "degree" fitting or two to create the offset

De-rating cables is when you lower their current carrying capacity as if you wrap a cable in insulation it warms up quicker and therefore as power / amps / heat are directly related you say instead of a wire in insulation carrying say 25 amps, it should only carry a max of 20 amps. This de-rating is only really relevant when it is for long lengths of cable as they cannot lose this heat elsewhere. As what you are talking about here is a short length of insulation, then it is not relevant. so .... just stuff it in b**ch..!!! ?

Change banks ..!! Starling do in app up cheque deposit up to £500 or freepost for anything else, and pay in cash at any Post Office. Add a Sumup Air unit for £59 and you’re taking cash, cheque or cards.

You are out of scope of CDM2015, and you do not need to advise HSE...

Has the demarcation chamber been built ..? At 2m ideally you should use something better than a plastic ring system. If you use 900 or 1200mm rings then it’s easy to do a backdrop but to be honest I would run at 1:40 for 18m then drop the last section into the chamber at 45 degrees (my calculations say that should work to do 1.5m) and would be an easier option.

Plenty of pump stations online - 600 litres is really your minimum you want and as it’s not the main house then just go for a single pump. Most use 50 or 63mm MDPE and it ideally should go to a 280/350mm Inspection chamber which then flows into a 110mm pipe into the main line to the sewer. And make sure they fit an elbow on the end of the MDPE... and definitely make sure the lid on the chamber screws down ..!!!

Stuff it in - you’re de-rating the cables for 8” at most which is fine.

Just put a flow restrictor in the shower hose at the head.

Most of the pipe work inside those units are around 12mm so even supplying it at 15mm is adequate. Flow and pressure are two, but the real issue is balance. If you have a pair of balanced hot and cold 15mm flows they will have ample supply to support the shower outlet. It is when you have an imbalance toward cold then the overall will suffer.

is that so the scrap man can collect it in one piece though ....?? My mate does machinery clearance and refurbs and they won’t buy anything older than 7-8 years now as it just doesn’t pay. They skip some stuff that they get that is 10-12 years old when it comes as part of a factory clearance as they time and cost spent working on them far outweighs any profit.

You will have a gap regardless - battens will be thicker if anything, unless you’ve got 25mm insulation between the battens and then insulated plasterboard over.

So the installer can’t read .... The room extracts on that are on the other side of the unit (it is the little house with the arrow inside) and the ones he has connected to are the external inlet and exhaust ... It also means all the filters and sensors are on the wrong sides - basically it’s installed entirely back to front and they need to refit the unit.

Shame they only make these for US socket plates https://www.poetexas.com/products/gaf-usb2

If you are using 10/100 rather than Gbit networks, and don’t have PoE requirements, then you can use the spare pairs to double up each socket if needed. Brown and blue are unused in normal wiring so you can wire these as the “other” pair. Other option is to use PoE to power a passive switch somewhere else in the network and use that to split to your other port requirements.

of Jane Fonda ..?

All the new flush mechanisms can be adjusted as it is about volume of flush and if you set them to the same height then different shape cisterns would contain different amounts of water at the same height .. Plenty of information on the Siamp website as they white label a lot of the other manufacturers products.

one for a quiet evening when you have nothing better to do but find Paul Sellers channel on YouTube ... he is my go to for all things woodworking related Here is his video on saw sharpening.

Or alternatively the contractor on a job this size does the insulation and ASHP as an entirely separate job where the magic 60% just happens to work in everyone’s favour ....... I think that’s called tax avoidance .. ?

UFH is filled using a loop then disconnected. 15mm off the rising main will do.

Why..? take bricks out below the wall plate and jack from there..??

Have you got enough sockets @Big Jimbo..? Concerned you’ve skimped on them ....

What’s the current flush capacity ..? 9 litre cisterns are available, most are in reality 12 litre but the flush mechanism stops them at 4 or 6. As @Cpd says, a long drop tube with a flap flush that allows the whole contents of the cistern into the pan is an option but won’t be cheap - reclaim yard may be your best bet .?