PeterW

It is £7.20 inc in the sheds, and they have it by the pallet. Makes it £6.48 inc or £5.40 exc which is about right when you take off 10% trade card in Wickes. I would shop around ..! As @nod says though, they are back to near full capacity in production as they have had nowhere to put the stock - Barrow is back over 80% now and they are shipping a lot more stock out than normal to catch up.

They are not as turn key as you expect, and there are a number of people who would suggest with some that the quality of service doesn't match the price. Caveat Emptor

Welcome.. Do you mean 180-200sqm, as 1800sqm is huge !!! Bungalows are more expensive on the face of it as they still need the same foundation roof and services as a house of twice the size. Walls and floors are comparatively cheap.

Do this

It is supposed to run to a drain..? That will run and stain the wall

gonna need pictures here...!!

I would use EPS bead - quick and easy and can be used everywhere and you won't get joins between insulation types

Start with the full board and then cut the pieces to fit either side

Best using a Henley per tail so one live and one neutral as the stacked ones are crap and if they break then the bus bars become a very big welder... Think you will also have to earth your SWA but one of the sparks will be along shortly...

The webs..? They need decent presses and very good jigs to make them work correctly - if they are Wolf Systems ones, the machines are well into 6 figures

Yep - they are clay beads cement bonded Ultra-lightweight and lightweight blocks are manufactured from cement together with one of a variety of natural or man-made expanded aggregates including: granulated/foamed blast-furnace slag, expanded clay or shale, furnace bottom ash (FBA) and fly ash (FA). The density of the aggregate is generally proportional to the strength of the block. https://www.modernmasonry.co.uk/mma/Resources/Aggregate-Blocks.aspx

What are you trying to achieve..? They are only an AAC block using clay bead not fly ash or shale or something similar. AAC blocks are much of a muchness - 7N or 10N are fine, 3.6N for non load bearing walls, all the manufacturers are pretty much the same.

I’d cut a small chamfer on it to 30 degrees so it’s not as sharp, get some dark wood laminate filler and butter the edges to fill the gaps in the chipboard and then epoxy on a piece of trim edge and let it go off. Then trim with a very sharp Stanley blade. The filler behind it hides the light colour of the chipboard and you won’t notice it.

No they will go into the OSB and the foam, or the OSB and then the battens around the edges Stop over thinking it

Felt is going over the OSB over the PIR... So 20mm will be fine and going nowhere.

OK so you could use the OSB but its not ideal as it isn't that smooth or waterproof. How much have you got left..? Any chance the supplier would take it back on credit..?

What are your floor joist spacings..? 18mm is only suitable for 400mm centres P5 chipboard is the norm - 22mm is pretty standard and I wouldn't use anything else really.

I would edge all round the OSB area with Battens. Go from inside to outside with the screws - will only need 30mm then - and then OSB into the battens from outside again using 30mm

@CpdIs that the Multipanel Type X bottom profile...? https://www.rubberduckbathrooms.co.uk/multipanel-base-profile-type-x-by-grant-westfield

Yep just the inside area. Should have enough to do that. You’ll need at least 3 sheets of OSB for the roof - how much have you got ..?

That will work but I would do the Batten Sandwich to start with and clamp both sides of the timbers and also edge all round the PIR with battens as it will make it stronger.

Is the PIR 50mm thick..? Screw a 3x2 on the edge of those boards all round and the ridge and then slide the PIR up on to the roof. Then same with OSB, just lift and slide. Couple of clamps will stop it moving whilst you get the screws in. For the stream side, put the 3x2 on first, then fix a couple of scrap battens to the edges to stop the board sliding into the stream and fit it from the high side.

So is the problem the decking breaching the gap for the sill..? If you create a gap then the water will have to drain somewhere and can't get as high as the seal. Detail threshold photos would help

Which way do the rafters run on the flat roof ..?? And what is the make up of the roof ..? Is the insulation between the rafters ..??? This may sound bizarre but I would run the water toward the door, and put a drain in front of the doors - make it slope and basically get rid of the water as fast as possible. What is the decking surface on top of the EDPM..??

yes however that’s removed at doorways - level thresholds etc. Sounds like an exercise by the builder in rear projection protection.