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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    Can’t see why 28mm has been specified - the Nibe needs 0.29l/s minimum flow on defrost which is just over a cubic metre per hour. On 36m of pipe at that flow rate the head loss is 21.6KPa so a circulation pump would need to run at approx 3.2m head on 22mm pipe . That’s well within the capability of a 6m circulation pump. In standard heating mode it is 2.52KPa (0.11 l/s) I checked the difference with 28mm copper vs Hep2O and it’s about 0.01kpa/m which is pretty negligible using Lamont’s
  2. PeterW
    Which ASHP is it and how far are you needing to go @Jenni..? Unusual to see 28mm as spec as it is a serious increase over 22mm which is standard so would like to know who specs that size
  3. PeterW
    £4.29...https://www.bes.co.uk/aladdin-autovent-hv30c-1-ufh-23156/
  4. PeterW
    https://www.bes.co.uk/hep2or-barrier-pipe-coil-white-28mm-x-50m-v2-20764/ It is about 1/2 the price of using copper for the same diameter.
  5. PeterW
    28mm Hep2O will be fine, just try not to use too many elbows. The flow paths in the H-Ex in the ASHP will be 3-5mm so the difference between 28mm Hep2O and 28mm Copper is negligible in the big scheme of things
  6. PeterW
    What are you using for the render backing..? And is the stone the outer course or just decorative..?
  7. PeterW
    That is the shrinkage from firing and is water content dependent. Used to be a useful document about it on the Ibstock website. 2-3mm variance is very good - last job we used reclaim imperials on, they varied from 207-230mm, 70-80mm deep and 95-115mm width ..! And they weighed over 2kg each !!
  8. PeterW
    No and 10mm Hep20 is dead easy to run - bring it out middle of the rad and use copper for the last bit if you want it to look nice
  9. PeterW
    Joists sat on top of the steel or within the webs..?? Sat on top is fine - easier if you fit a wall plate to the steel using bolts or a shot fire gun and then fix timber to timber.
  10. PeterW
    Depends on your LA. Mine are useless - I've seen delays where they have said the "before 10, inspect by 4" and have not come out for 2 days which throws out schedules. On a slow build this may not be an issue, but when you are trying to get pours done and trenches covered then it can be a challenge. The local one wouldn't accept photos via email either, but the private ones will and the private company reports following inspection are very detailed and a clear set of actions to fix and track to completion prior to the next inspection.
  11. PeterW
    9Kw will heat a 400 litre UVC to 47c in a couple of hours at E7 rates, boost it to 65c for 90 mins in the last bit of the E7 period and you’ve got all your hot water for a day for pennies. ASHP kicks in at say 4am, warms the slab so the house is toasty through the day. Boost in the late afternoon if needed. A 9Kw will also not be stressed at that sort of load - could probably drop to a 5Kw but the price difference is buttons.
  12. PeterW
    £781 inc VAT from Glass Squad with blue tint and 0.9 uValue 3G units. Have a solar gain figure too
  13. PeterW
    Is there a fence, and what is the primary elevation (ie where is the front door) on your existing property..?
  14. PeterW
    OK so this one is even worse - a normal UVC does not need a PHE, and there is DHW external mixing where a 3.3kw internal coil needs no moving parts. It essentially adds another pump and another system to go wrong, with 3 pumps where one would do assuming you cannot remove the circulation pump for the heating system. And at over £2000 for the cylinder that is eye watering..! This can be massively simplified and not require anything close to the components. I have installed a single circuit ASHP that has one diverter valve, one pump and one zone valve. It is run from a standard dual channel controller that is wired in "W Plan" which any plumber could work on as the heat pump needs a single NV switch to trigger the heat pump. That provides all the heat and DHW to a 300 litre UVC and 85sqm UFH setup and it took less than 2 days to install and wire. It cannot get much simpler than this.
  15. PeterW
    TBH I think your bigger issue is going to be getting that flat roof through on planning - it is a very odd design and not one I've seen used with a lot of success. It is also a nightmare to build and ensure it is watertight
  16. PeterW
    That isn't correct. Oil boilers hold this buffer as it takes time for the burner to come up to full temperature and they do not respond as quickly as gas. The buffer allows small amounts of hot water to be drawn off without firing the boiler and short cycling which causes issues with the burners. Once up to full power, an oil boiler will keep the hot water flow at full temperature as long as their is oil in the tank.
  17. PeterW
    Lets start at 9KW ASHP and a 400 litre UVC HP spec from Telford, 75 litre buffer tank and also get the blending set for the manifold (just hope it set up to allow the pipe centres to line up...) Personally, I don't like the pre-plumbed cylinders as they are expensive for what they are. There are circa £250 of bits on the tank and they add over £600 to fit them onto the tank. They assume too that it is wired as S-Plan, which may not be ideal in all instances. With a heat pump setup you are better off using a diverter valve rather than zone valves as there is always an open circuit so you don't get over pressure issues with closed valves. Heat load for the heating will be low, hence the need for the buffer tank as the ASHP will short cycle otherwise.
  18. PeterW
    Unless there is something in the lease/deeds to the property such as a covenant, I can’t see how a temporary structure would cause problems. Would look nice too ..!
  19. PeterW
    Make it temporary - how about a planter with a trellis back to it ..?? 1800x600 and will also soften the appearance of it.
  20. PeterW
    What’s the spacing on the UFH pipes ..? Got the manifold mixer ..?
  21. PeterW
    @Pete questions for you.. size of house Insulation levels Heat loss calcs done ..? Number of showers / bathrooms Plant room ..? UFH / Rads / Towel rails ..? Lets have that lot and then work out what’s needed ..!
  22. PeterW
    TR26 is a timber grading.
  23. PeterW
    It’s fine - tank load is normally across 3 trusses anyway for design purposes on 6x2 bearers. Insulation is normally the bigger problem - 3-400mm unless you use rigid PIR
  24. PeterW
    Yep - will fit through a hole behind the ceiling rose into the ceiling cavity. About the size of a box of matches, possibly a bit thicker. Quickest way is wire them on the bench with tails and WAGOs, and then just add them into the circuit accordingly.
  25. PeterW
    I use the Qinetic switches as a matter of course now - cost of the switches and the receivers is more than covered by the reduction in labour cost to wire and redo walls. The new grid ones also mean you can do a mix of wired and new lights in the same grid with no different switches needed.
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