PeterW

It should have come with a filter head spanner ..??

Those two things are the wrong way round. You need to get the drawings done - of existing structure initially - and then work out what can be done. Then get the SEng to agree the structural elements and then you have something to tender against. Didn’t you say you had an architect work on this ..??? What did they design for structure and externals ..?

Yes if you drain the contents into the system by venting somewhere else but tbh you won’t have enough flow between the tank and the system apart from when you are filling the system. Just use the magnaclean for what it’s there for !

So at 80A you are absolutely on the borderline of the 5% drop for 25mm cable. Make it 75.1m and it needs lifting to 35mm cable. In likelihood the DNO will install a 100A fuse anyway. It’s why they have specced a 35mm service cable not 25mm. It’s slightly more expensive but the distance you are talking about the voltage drop is the major factor.

Leaks could be from anywhere - how old is the conservatory roof ..? Usual issue with glass roof panels is they creep on the seals when they get hot, so you can carefully remove the outer glass retaining trims, lift out the units and replace the seals and then reinstall the units. It’s no worse than replacing double glazing in a window, and if you take your time it’s a nice job to do. In terms of overheating, you are limited to blinds or replacing the glazing with a solar glaze type coating, or a self adhesive solar film. The latter can be done when you take the units out to replace the seals.

Is that a glass roof ..??

£1250 ... and buy smart !! Chalet bungalow can be done cheaply, go for standard construction methods and don’t spend £30k on windows ...

What amperage/power did you select ..? It’s borderline for 80A with the voltage drop at that distance so you may want to price up 35mm

So that’s part of map search. If you go to the map and zoom in, switch on the “Find Properties” and it brings up a list.

OK this may appear somewhat “ controversial” but you have a huge space there, and I think you are missing a trick. I would be finishing up the blocks as a single skin, and then cladding all round or rendering direct to block. I’d then build a completely new timber frame structure inside the building - even use metal framing like @nod has recommended - and seal it / insulate it and you have a “conversion” without the structural hassles. Also, if you have to have a contamination survey done, get them to condemn the current concrete floor due to urea etching (yes this is a thing) so it is not structurally sound .... and then dig it out !! Drop your floor by 200mm all round the inside of the blockwork, cast a ring beam to support the inside of the outer wall plus provide the edge for your inner frame, new DPM up the inside of your “swimming pool” and then you negate the need for the external injected DPM (that invariably don’t work...) You may lose 25sqm of floor potentially but it will give you a much better build and much more DIY-able.

Don’t use the council for this - just get a registered streetworks contractor to do it (which is all they will do) and save yourself the money and the hassle. They can apply for the permit on your behalf and they go via a different route.

Ok but that means you are already including the 3 walls you need to retain ..? You also need to do your opening allowances and that can remove quite a lot - 20% of floor for windows would take out 1100 from your 275sqm ish floor plan. All this needs factoring in, and it may pay you to use an online estimator to just get a ballpark of the quantities needed. I am not sure why your internal walls need to be load bearing either as this is a pre-existing structure that is obviously standing now ..??

Depends on your external finish ...? Traditionally, windows were made to “work bricks and courses” so for a standard metric brick plus mortar joint you worked on units of 225mm horizontally (or 112.5mm for a half) and 75mm in height. This is why you get “standard” heights of 900/1050/1200/1500/1800 as they all work to brick courses.

Yes, ignore your neighbour ..!! What he is describing is poor construction practices not the issue with heavy tiles - that could happen on any roof if you only loaded one side of the trusses. The whole point you load out a roof in it entirety and do both sides at the same time (even if just loading out not laying ) it to keep the weight on the roof even as it goes up.

You don’t need a cavity. - this is how they upgrade a lot of older council houses with solid walls, installing EWI (search the forum for it) as it really is quick and easy. It needs about 180-200mm of EPS or 100-120mm of PIR to be effective but works really well.

Pressure in the bottom manifold from water being pushed round the loops from the top manifold keeps the actuators closed on the loops not in use and also helps them to close down if they are the wax actuator type. If they were the other way round then flow pressure would pull water past the actuator. The flow gauges also rely on a “pull” flow around the gauge which needs the water to flow past the base of the gauge itself which you wouldn’t get if it was reversed.

Let the mag filter do it - the one I use has a 800 micron stainless gauze filter too that is like a disk of mesh at the bottom of the filter.

50m at 3m high (ish) is 150sqm or 1500 blocks. There are 10 blocks to the square metre. Or are you considering double skin and rebuild of the whole lot ..?

Got any plans of what is existing ..?? You can step the dig out if you need to to give you more for insulation and allowances for screed etc.

Really pleased this has sorted a few of the issues. Are you pulling the mag filter to see what it’s like and add the inhibitor ..? Is UFH on the cards soon..? A warm bathroom for Mrs Onoff for Christmas 2020..??

OK so your thinnest standard insulation is PUR, Kingspan Kooltherm is a brand you may see. What is the final floor finish, and why can’t you dig the floor out ..?

You can’t use superfoil in floors - it needs airspace to work despite what the manufacturers try and tell you. So you need to budget for a minimum of 100mm insulation there. In terms of the roof, what is the current structure and build up ..??

If it’s only outflow from the system then gradient is irrelevant - follow the level of the ground and just put 10mm pea gravel all round it. If it does run all year round, you may want to run the last few metres in clay (UPVC is not UV stable) and also put one of these in the run just before you convert to clay. Make it accessible in a simple concrete chamber. https://www.plastics-express.co.uk/underground-drainage/Underground-Drainage-110mm/110mm-non-return-valve-28single-flap29-p-pte348

Have you not got any inhibitor in the system ..?? If you are hacking into the system then worth adding one of the mag filters (cheap one here) which you can also use for dosing inhibitor into the loops. Shouldn’t be getting scale on a Willis as it’s a closed loop system.

For anyone looking for cheap Wilo pumps for this sort of stuff, Toolstation have got the 5/130 at change of £90 https://www.toolstation.com/wilo-yonos-pico-circulating-pump/p75983