PeterW

If it faces North then how about putting a couple of pairs (see your 1 is now 4..!!) standard Velux Windows on 15 degree upstands, with two facing east and two facing west ..? Probably find it cheaper using 4 Velux than a single or even two large flat panels. You could have them automated too... would look like a sub launching missiles if they all opened together ..! ?

Compromise your design slightly so you dont alter the roof at all, and just crack on with the extension assuming it’s under the neighbour approval scheme.

Make a brew and get a pack of digestives out and have a long read of Pete Wards website. He’s incredibly knowledgeable about old houses and buildings and his explaination of “rising damp” is well worth a read. https://www.heritage-house.org/damp-and-condensation/types-of-damp-what-have-i-got/what-is-rising-damp.html

Ok so disturb the minimum amount possible and just change it where you can get to it. You could easily swing a pipe behind the current manifold from the bottom of the “return” and use the other existing elbow to connect up so that would mean you only need to re-pipe the flow.

Yes that’s fine - can’t see that in the pics ! Those grey fittings look like the older poor quality ones too - may want to consider swapping things for Hep2O.

I would check if there is not a better route such as using a secured storage provider (not a storage unit..!) as the data she has is very much classified as sensitive personal data under GDPR, and should be stored under the guidance from the ICO. Does she need to keep physical copies or are electronic copies not acceptable. The costs of building the store would be a business expense - she can claim the VAT back through the business plus the cost of the building but it would need to be registered as a fixed asset on her accounts. You would also need to ensure her business insurance covered it as your household insurance would be unlikely to cover the building and contents.

The thermostat valve will be working in reverse...! So if you turn it down (ie cooler) then the top sensor will see warmer water and it will try and compensate. It’s not that difficult to fix but you would need to move the wiring centre from the right. The manifolds are modular - looks like that has a leak too so a good time to fix the leak - and you can essentially drain it down, undo the pump set and swap it to the other end using the same fittings. You would probably want to clean all the joints up and use something like JetBlue on all the joints as they are older and also look to be brass, and that would allow you to correctly install the pump to the right and the return to the left. It’s a half days job for a competent plumber.

If this was me, I would not bother with the concrete and screed but back fill with MoT1 to 275mm below FFL, compacted in 100mm layers. Then lay 25mm EPS as a blinding layer, DPM lapped 600mm up the wall (well past current DPC) and then use 130mm PIR with 30mm to all walls. UFH pipes into the bottom of this and then self compacting concrete, leaving a 5-8mm layer for SLC to even off the slab when everything else is complete as you want to do this in sections. I would ensure your blue/yellow sections break at doorways and I wouldn’t worry about securing them together - in fact I would insert 10mm foam to give and expansion gap and allow movement. Injected DPC is a waste of time - they don’t work. Unless someone is insisting for a mortgage (which is very shady practice) then lap the DPC up the wall, bond it on with a PU Adhesive and then board and skim as normal. As long as the internal DPC goes above the external ground by 2-300mm you will be fine. If you are doing EWI also consider digging down and putting a French drain around the property as it will help with reducing localised moisture levels.

Can you mark which pipes you think are flow and return and which is hottest ..? And a better photo of the pump ..? Thanks

Just checked with Parker’s and 150x6 flat stock is £12/m plus VAT ex works. That is for lengths at 6-6.4m long.

That’s very warm ..!! I’d get the kids some jumpers ..!! Try it down by a couple of degrees and see what happens.

Absolutely a requirement. See this regularly and they can overshoot and they can also not modulate down far enough. The modern ASHP refrigerants can hit 62°C too, they are borderline boiler temperature. A mixer also gives you the pump which is essential - most issues with UFH come back to lack of flow and as soon as you start with 2 floors and multiple manifolds you need to manage the flows properly.

Why are you using Superfoil VCL..??! There is £300 saved, it’s pointless here.

As @ProDavesays, all the timber should be properly varnished and treated and it will be fine. More importantly ... let’s have some more photos as that is a beautiful roof and I want to see the rest of the house !!!

So make a jig that allows you to cut at 2.5° and cut the PIR with a slight bevel to it. Push it home and foam the edges and it will be tight in and sealed. Why would you go with rockwool throughout..?? Mix of materials is a good thing. You can also tape the outer PIR and it will give you a VCL from the foil facing

I’m not disagreeing but that wasn’t the point of my comment, it was who’s liability would pay in the event of an issue and it was outlining both the issues in question. Getting agreement in writing is vital, especially when litigation could occur.

How wide is that ..? Can’t you land joists either side ..?

How are you using lintels with no blockwork above .? Or am I misunderstanding ..?

Are the steels in ..?? Get the fabricator to put 100x10mm plates at 300mm intervals along the steel and drill them and the web at 16mm. Fit a timber beam along the whole of the face of the wall and the steel, bolting it to the steel and resin bolting it to the wall. Now use timber to timber hangers onto the wall plate.

@Noddy2021 you have done the right thing. I would tweak it to 40°C flow at the moment and bring it down a bit assuming you’re hitting the target room temperature. If you find you aren’t then extend the programme run time first before you change the temperature up.

If it is sized right then there is no need. GSHP is expensive to install and expensive to run and maintain. You may also struggle to find anyone to work on it as they are few and far between.

In houses in the 1970’s the airing cupboards were fitted with heat loops made of basically a long U shaped pipe with an air vent on the tee where it joined the main pipe flow. This would work in this situation - ask the plumber to put a loop around the outer edge of the cupboard or against one side with an air vent at the top. It could also be done with an auto vent so you never need to bleed it.

@zoothorn I said yesterday you didn’t understand rad balancing, and you ignored it. I also went through and explained how we size radiators using BS EN442 and how flow temperature affects heat output, yet apparently because one room gets warm (your workshop) I was wrong. I’ve offered to professionally come and review the house, install and design to see how it is all working and identify any issues, you’ve declined and then gone on to say that you disagree with me even though I have more experience of this. It feels remarkably like you do not want any help with this, but are happier to have something to complain about, rather than take the assistance from many members of this forum to resolve it. I wish you luck resolving this, I have no further comment or input to make on this.

No - that’s a hybrid build up and would need ventilated cavities etc and a nightmare to detail - just make it a warm roof or look at the minimum joist sizes you need for the shortest span and run the terrace in those. No benefit as insulation depends on trapped air and you’re excluding that You’ve created an air gap for no reason..?? Seems no point to this build up. Why not 140mm of Rockwool plus 40mm of PIR or 52.5mm insulated plasterboard ..? Or 90mm of PIR and 25mm over ..?? Insulation per “uValue” is broadly comparable per square meter - yes you need 50% more EPS depth for a certain value vs PIR, but PIR is around 50% more expensive than EPS so it levels out. Similar with Rockwool and PIR, you won’t make huge savings here.

Not necessarily ... So... Architect has specified it this way for waterproofing and reduced condensation Structural Engineer has specified it this way for strength and structural integrity. Do it the SE’s way, it leaks and who pays ..?? Do it the architects way and cracking and movement occurs, who pays ..?? Only way to resolve this is a solution they both agree in writing on.