PeterW

Nope a Pressure Relief Valve from a tank (and usually teed with an expansion) has to run to a drain or safe location. Part G section 3.62 refers to safe discharge from a pressurised vessel.

No issue with any of that. If you’re having a UVC in an airing cupboard where are they routing the PReV outlet to as it needs to be close to a drain.

Pears Stairs are good and reasonably priced.

That means the o-rings are not in place properly inside as that shouldn’t leak from there.

Yep will be fine unless you polish it hard. Sweeping brush and a sloppy 3:1 mix will be fine. You won’t get it silky smooth and your bonding coat will cover the sins later

For the £100 the letter will cost, go to a solicitor first - a letter from you directly will just inflame the situation. When faced with legal facts, most people shut up and back down.

Hot water has to go through a blending or TMV - you store at 65°C but to outlets especially baths is limited in building regulations to 43°C from memory. You would not want to put 65°C water direct to a tap - it is scalding temperature. For your HRC to the kitchen sink you could go with 15mm and a 10mm return, all insulated with 25mm of standard polyethylene pipe insulation. Using Hep2O means no joints hidden and you could have a manifold for this purpose. Showers can be fed direct off the UVC as long as they go through a thermostatic mixer valve.

Trims are missing from the ends of the roof rails also. Glass should be covered as without it the seal will degrade.

+1 to the above and get the photos to the solicitor ASAP ..

@TryC that soil stack above in black is fine - could do with a bracket on the fascia but nothing major. In terms of yours you need to track that drain entry and if it flows into the foul sewer. Quickest way is a bucket of water with some food colouring in it, and lift a manhole cover.... flush the toilet, see where the water enters the chamber. Then tip the coloured water down the trap next to that downpipe and see where it ends up. If it all ends up in the same manhole or flows down through it then happy days. You then take the gully grill out, and you can insert a clay to UPVC seal connector into the pipe and put a new stack in. In terms of coming through that wall, a pair of 40mm pipes through the wall is about the same diameter as a 110mm soil so you would only need to chisel out the edges I expect.

2.5m from a boundary and 5m from the property. BCO can reduce these by discretion

I would be on the conveyors as far as you can get to create a “spoil heap” for a grab lorry and then use that. Other option is a skid steer with a bucket - a bobcat can carry 1/2 cube at a time but will need somewhere to drop spoil unless you go for 20 cube RoRo skips.

+1 to the telehandler but you’ll need to request a block grab. I’m assuming you’re having a full load of 22 packs - where are you going to put them as they can only go 2 packs high on rough ground and that’s a lot to have on a site with poor access. What are you doing about other bulk materials such as sand and cement etc ..??

Lovely 1930’s one over threes - probably find they are mahogany or pitch pine and salvageable. Lots of places now do non-caustic stripping which is kinder to wood but any stripping process will raise the grain and the doors will need sanding and refinishing. If you want to do them yourself you’ll find the paste and fabric strippers are good, but you could find the cost outweighs the value of replacement doors.

@Andy brown how far have you got to move it..?? Is the whole 40m narrow ..? A Shifta will go 4m, 4 will cover 16m so you’re loading at one end and dumping at the other. Useful for going through houses too when you’ve got no access front to back ..! @Tennentslager this may help you too

Telford UVC has Secondary return as standard. PV..?? No it is simpler. Returns to the top of the tank, TS with a coil cools the whole tank to keep it going. TS heat loss is higher due to higher tank temperature. £20 on your boiler service if he’s there anyway Combi won’t care either way - same with a UVC.

So why tiles ..? Why not just tidy up with a bonding coat then use Multipanel straight onto the walls..? Can use structural foam to hold it (DryFix works) or if you need to pack the walls true then use 25mm roofing battens and plumb them with packers - adding 25mm Jablite between the battens will stop a lot of excess condensation on the walls too.

Search level threshold detail - this is just one example.

I’d be going back to the supplier with those - is that the hinge side or the lock side out of interest .?

Yep - if you have access from the back then it makes life much easier as the tile holes can be much smaller and you can adjust accordingly.

Nope but make sure the ducting is well insulated and tilts down toward the wall inlets as they will draw in condensation on boost.

HepVO and cut a swept tee into the upright of the waste pipe, ideally with an elbow so the HepVO is running vertical.

thats a standard measurement. You use spacers to get the correct gaps plus it allows rooms to be out of square. Also, the depth of a corner isn’t a multiple of 100mm so you need the adjustment

That is what CPD hours are for ..!! Keeping up with new developments and technology. It’s also borderline hot air and bo!!cks as the principles of insulation haven’t changed in decades. More insulation = less energy to heat / cool is the basis of thermodynamics that has been there since the 1970’s That doesn’t even meet building regulations ..!! Never mind be energy efficient ..! The issue with a number of architects are they are crayon kings, and focus on the looks and aesthetic rather than the practical build scenario and the long term efficiency. We have a couple on here who do get it, but my overriding experience is that the “fabric first” learning is done on one wet Tuesday afternoon at university and forgotten thereafter ....

It’s also called RTFM ... Read The F&@ing Manual..!! It tells you the min / max dimensions and depths for installation.