Onoff

Like GD when a delivery lorry sheds it's load of steel or that Clark fella when what they've made won't get out of the workshop and they have to cut the door bigger.....there ALWAYS happens to be a camera rolling!

Will do...when I'm home as I can't remember the eBay password to look for the seller!

Resin bonded gravel I'm thinking. I guess there's a consideration if they fall and the surface is rough...though they'll hopefully be wrapped up if it's cold. Handrail if the runs not too long? (I put some in to assist my elderly parents up some steps in their garden). (I seriously debated running trace heating cables up my sloping drive set a "car's width" apart so just where the tyres go is kept ice free).

The (cheap) 12V LED gel strip lights I have retain the colour setting when switched off. I have a mains AC supply of course so it's just a normal light switch that switches the trannie. Just have to remember where I leave the remote when I get bored with the setting! Aside from the DC switching surely that's all you want?

Where the shelf is alongside the bath, I've done the vertical portion in 12mm marine ply that comes up from the 18mm deck the bath sits "on". For the 100mm wide shelf of the recess (there's some ply & plasterboard off cuts on it).....it's going to be tiled. Not sure whether to marine ply this then tile or just use the green plasterboard then tile?

Hello & welcome. Best try and get things finished before they start secondary / university! EDIT: Forgot to say there's plenty of help on here. Our resident brickmaker and drone pilot comes from Essex too.

I spoke too soon! Had to take about 5mm off this bit: All tidy now!

Near miss..... Running some conduit in & up the steps fumbling with a flat wood bit: Wishing I'd done last night's Lotto now!

Ref the getting out more we just got this T shirt for my avid gamer son:

I Hoover as I go along! After testing the radiator loop under pressure I also sucked out the water using the vac. Makes an interesting waste stream in the bottom of the wet vac!

Have a word with this bloke.....I'm sure it could be done the other way around I've come across a few adapter ideas to use one make of battery on another and my first thought was that it's an ideal thing for 3D printing. Of course somebody has already done it. It's be great if you were way a Makita fan to "convert" all this old, off tools to use the Makita Li-ion battery.

Sad I know..... Using up all my EPS offcuts in "Toasty Corner" what was once a HORRIBLE, draughty place to stand at the sink. Taking plenty of pics so I know whats underneath:

Nothing wrong with over thinking things.....

All this has done is made me Google "Katie Price in bath" then "Images". The hot tub video clip isn't worth watching more than a couple of times tbh...

How long should I leave my radiator pipe loop on test before I get the plasterboards on? Pressurised it to 3 bar a few hours ago (briefly at 8 bar until I bled it down) and no leaks in the 4 elbows in the the run. Good enough or wait 24 hours? Cheers

I'd leave the UFH under the rug area tbh. It'll transfer some heat still and be less complicated than routing the pipe round the area.

A mate has recently completed a whole house renovation (his own) that I think came under Camden. Most of his problems were with initial planning. I'll ask who he used.

Could you not plastic prime: http://www.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/u-pol-1k-plastic-primer-adhesion-promotor-600ml-aerosol-upol-2579-p.asp a UPVC cloaking board after lightly abrading it then spray yourself? My local Spraystore will make up aerosols to RAL colours. I've also used HMG Paints in the past.

Wait until the BCO's gone, bit of packing!

I'd hazard a guess it's to halve the span of the truss bottom chord? You don't want a bouncy upstairs floor!

The Vado is around £300 plus SHE doesn't like the look. Even with Torx and a right angled driver it's awkward. At the mo I've got x4 5mm Goldscrews to hold the long side down to the batten on the floor; one either side of the hatch, one at the end by the wall and one at the foot of the bath by the fancy mitre joint. Even thinking something on the lines of M6 bolts and ratchet spanner. (The floor batten btw is held down with x3 M10 studs into Fischer resin studs in the slab all on a bed of Sika). Lifting the bath in is a game. Impossible on my own too. I have to drag madam away from sofa / Candy Crush or No.1 son away from Titanfall Not sure if I'll be able to fit the overflow and waste then put the bath in without knocking the waste tbh. Might be better to fit the waste only when the bath goes in and isn't coming out again. As in put on the flexi waste and trap first then lower the bath in and work from above.....I'll wait until my handy mate John comes down as we work together without rowing! What muppet suggested partially sinking the bath? Oh yes it was John!

My guess would be it's because of building height i.e the 3rd storey that your BC are pushing for both fire doors and sprinklers. A good read of the Welsh Part B is in order.

God no! It's got to come out again of course! I'm hoping to replace the taps with Vado Summit if I can convince her down the line: (Of course the taps above might not (almost certainly won't) fit on where the adapters are as I think they need to sit on a dead flat surface. I can foresee a specially machined 316 st/st plate to sit over the adapters!) - Need to fill the hole in the slab I excavated for the rad pipes. - Need to paint the floor under the bath. - Debating sticking some thin (3mm) rubber discs under the 5 bath feet. Dampening / location. Not that it wobbles, the wife and daughter had a trial "lay" in it last night. - The foot nearest the internal wall corner I think needs a 3mm pack. - Overflow & waste needs to go on as above last lot of questions (any thoughts ref the CT1?). Biggest problem is the ply carcass: - I need to introduce a glued and pinned "upstand" the bath lip sits over. The tiles will abut this. - The "removable" half - tricky getting your hand in and around to the screws that separate it from the batten screwed to the floor. This is looking down towards the removable side panel on the long side. You can see the screw I have to get to, one the other side of the opening too. Might have to rethink and make some accessible st/st angle brackets: - The scallop out of the uprights that misses the bath side pipes needs to be made bigger just to give a bit more clearance (tighter than it looks): Oh, and I need to connect up the hot & cold in the loft and find somewhere for the waste outside to go....

The removable taps idea looks like it'll work:

I didn't read it that just because it's red it's high in iron only that'll it'll go varying degrees of red when fired...unless I missed something? "Regardless of its natural color, clay containing iron in practically any form will exhibit a shade of red when exposed to an oxidizing fire because of the formation of ferrous oxide".