Onoff

I think we have a winner with that! Might be a better bet going for their £13.99 on as in don't go for the cheapest? http://www.argos.co.uk/product/7106062 I went through a phase of buying I think Nu-tool tat from Makro as they were dead cheap, got a: dead cordless drill, dead mains sabre saw, dead 24V sabre saw working circular saw working mains delta sander I use NONE of them! 3/8" router from Aldi - working save for an irreplaceable broken piece dead mains brad stapler from Aldi I use neither of them Got 9.6V Bosch and 12V Makita drills with no batteries etc. Could probably fill a couple of filing cabinet draws with duff power tools!

So I have this nasty old,single glazed, wooden window in the downstairs cloak: I've measured up my existing window: Got a price from local guy of £160 all in (nephew's mate). That a for 28mm profile, 1.2W/m2K & includes handle/lock, sill and both top and bottom in Pilkington Stippolyte. He did offer and obscure Pilkington at no extra cost. I'm also having a wider sill for no extra as and when I do the wall in EWI. Wickes nearest equivalent comes out at £135 and is a 24mm profile / 1.4W//m2K. I'm happy with the guy's price. Wickes also come with their trickle vents which I just think are noisy and draughty. (I can get Compriband 600 for nothing for it which helps btw). Now externally the existing window is fitted pretty much flush with the outside face: Knowing NOTHING ref EWI etc should I be fitting the new window inboard of where it is? Tbh until I get the old window out I'm not sure of the construction. I only know when drilling thru for the outside tap recently there didn't appear to be a cavity. Cheers

I had a couple of areas of my bathroom floor slab to repair. A "slot" I rough cut in the slab when I was going to spin the bath through 180deg needed squaring off and then where I knocked out to run the afterthought feeds to the towel rad. Right or wrong I used neat SBR in 4:1mix and it's gone off very "resinous". Not subject to foot traffic but seems super tough:

Don't forget Gumtree & Preloved etc if you don't mind second hand. There's a few "used only about 4 times" etc for £20 ish. Better of course if you're local to the seller. There's plenty of power tools get bought by/for non diy'ers then sit under the stairs until someone has a clear out. Equally some think they no longer need it as they've gone cordless. Thinking that way you might get a better make. My first Bosch lasted me 20+ years and two houses.

You wanted cheap & traditional chuck, how does £15 delivered sound: Pro User: 500W http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500W-Electronic-Hammer-Normal-Drill-Front-Handle-Spare-Carbon-Brushes-/322281831500?hash=item4b097e7c4c:g:q~IAAOSwKtVWuMWb or Silverline: 500W with 3 year g'tee for a couple of quid more: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500W-230V-Electric-Power-Tool-Hammer-Drill-3-YR-Warranty-Concrete-Wood-Steel-/221836065643?hash=item33a675bb6b:g:QDoAAOSwNSxVC1Le or Sealey 750W: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-S0686-Electric-Hammer-Drill-13mm-750w-230v-Comes-with-extra-products-/272375303408?hash=item3f6ad54cf0:g:rgcAAOSw8w1X2GPo

I think I know what it is but what is heave? Guessing it's if you remove a large tree the roots the ground gets "looser", then takes a while for things to compact down again. I guess then the reduction in ground preassure can give rise to subsidence type issues etc. Seen similar where cable trenches get dug "to the garage" then the block paving sinks along that line.

In Plumbcenter today and they seem to have some reasonable sale prices on selected Nabis stuff: http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultMobileView?storeId=10201&catalogId=10051&resultCatEntryType=2&uid=0.18947813796946544&searchTerm=nabis+sale

How about exposed "rafters" as part of the build which then become the floor joists later on?

Video wall using Raspberry Pi I reckon: http://www.piwall.co.uk https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/video-wall/

Video wall using Raspberry Pi I reckon: http://www.piwall.co.uk https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/video-wall/

Absolutely LOVE it! So with full height panels I could have RR & Jennifer Lawrence in the shower with me? Can't see how you could do it "cheap" unless you could source cheap display panels.

Would you not also want a service cavity detail internally?

Is there a longest build competition?

Fully agree unless the OPs trying to save a few quid. If you're going to go "off the reservation" lifting anything you really need to be au fait with how to do things properly in the first place in order to adapt. I'll openly admit to having gone the "needs must" route in my younger years. Heaviest pane of glass I've been involved with changing is 540kg, 14 floors up.

A couple of ladders laid at an angle and winch/haul it up on a sheet with a lip. Timber guidd on the board. Ratchet strap round the whole lot until the last moment.

Hope you and the neighbours get on well as you'll need access via the top of their garage of course. What's the score I wonder party wall wise if you do an extension now and they want to do similar later? Might be worth considering at the design stage. @Bitpipe had a 12'x38' caravan for sale I think, you could land straight on top....too wide?

I ended up modding the hell out of one of our cabinets. Originally the induction hob was to go to the right, centred over where two cabinet sides meet which would have needed modding. SWMBO then decided she wanted it dead centre of the 1000mm unit. Meant I didn't have to mod the cabinet sides BUT it put the hob switch closer than 300mm. As I'd run everything in 20mm steel conduit I WASN'T changing it! The back panel was halved neatly with extra battens added and comes out via a couple of screws. I did route a 5mm gap in the horizontal member to allow better ventilation to the hob.

You can't go wrong with Aico. With that many, possibly more I'd also fit a test/locate button to pinpoint which one in a hurry. Don't forget C02 up there if required.

I'm not sure why I tend to over analyse things. It's not a fear of getting things wrong as I often only get whatever "new" thing I try right on the second attempt. If anything I've gotten worse as have had a tendency in the past to "read the instructions later", waste materials, buy the wrong stuff. I've done "it" all in the past but look back with embarrassment on a lot of stuff. I do feel quite guilty at times on here gleaning people's hard earned knowledge on new techniques / stuff I'm not familiar with. Believe it or not that often puts me off asking questions. I remember reading a thread thinking htf can a Passive Infra Red detector have anything to do with insulation. "PIR" Now I like the idea of NOT having to revisit something mainly when I'm older and more decrepit.

Just been out to the garage as I knew I had a NOS roll of this: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/single-sided-foam-tapes/2050899/?searchTerm=205-0899&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E283F69292852537C5253207C52532D293F5C647B337D285C73293F5B5C732D2F255C2E2C5D285C73293F5C647B332C347D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D4245522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3230352D30383939267374613D3230353038393926 Struggling to remember which site it was bought for as it's probably 20 years old. Still in the bag and you'd have been welcome to it to try but I can see the backing paper is separating from the foam which probably means the "sticky".....isn't! Tbh it would have cost more to post.

My mate's missus is Polish and her dad runs a "double glazing" business over there. For one of his visits to the UK he brought all the windows and roof panels over in a big van for their conservatory and had a working holiday. The windows seem heavier duty than we're used to tbh. The big downfall was his using standard, big, heavy panels on the roof. Not only does it sag but it leaks. Water gets trapped behind the transoms. The base product looks good just badly installed imo.

Try first drying the foam seal out and giving a good dose of silicon spray. Sounds daft but are you sure it's rain getting in and not condensation? I see this a lot and use these to stop it: https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/pressure-compensation-components/0838805/ Tbh a cheap fix would be a bit of sill or even felt etc to hang over the front.

My son who's aiming for a computer science degree explained the concept of "click bait" to me which I hadn't heard before. It clearly works in pulling the viewers in.

Nothing like to the degree of air tightness being adhered to here but in doing one room (the bathroom) I've now put a taped vcl on 2 1/2 walls which were air leaky either through holes, mortar joints, cracked plaster etc. It's so noticable as I work my way round. The draught now comes from / is focused on the wet room corner & where the soil pipe comes in. I reckon I could close my eyes and navigate to it by touch. The downside is if I "drop one" and the missus walks in! It just lingers! Roll on the single room MVHR!

Three things.... I think I picked up the tip of marking the PIR with the tape like that from one of your early videos before I was maybe even on eBuild. Was it you doing a loft conversion? Second, totally disagree about the proper Celotex saws. I've got a little pink one! Thirdly.....pretty sure there's a market for vids of girls in PPE wielding power tools. Some people find it very "exciting"...