Onoff

Double thickness of plasterboard over lapping at the joints is all I remember from helping a mate years ago.....

Possibly takes time for a capacitor in the trannie to discharge.

Elica cooker hoods at least seem very well respected: http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/about-the-appliance-industry/manufacturer-information/2806-elica-cooker-hoods

Go for it. I bought an Israeli designed, Turkish made induction hob from Comet when they closed down. That well known make "Electra Elecheib". Been as good as gold. Was £399, down to £199 and I found a 15% discount code that worked! For the price I "took a chance".

Liking it! The overall shape is easy enough out of a bit of MDF. I'll probably print the lettering onto a piece of paper, glue to the mdf then carefully route out. As for the raised relief work....."pipe it" with No Nails or similar?

OK, the jury's out on these LED strips. I think we're sitting in the cheap seats! Set on a single colour that'll come back on that setting when you power up and they're great. The one program I wanted, the gradual fade in / out thru the colour range can be a bit jerky between some colours. Enough to annoy me whilst trying to relax in the bath! Needs to be a smoother transition. I may of course be doing the product a disservice as I've bastardised it with the DIY 7-core extension. Running the sensor cores along side the DC lines might be causing an issue? I'll have a go with another set not messed around with. Still it's pretty good for <£10. Worth getting a set just to play with IMO. The little white box is interesting; a 3-core ribbon to the sensor then a 4-core flex coming out of it. According to the pcb inside, the 4-core does Vcc then R, G & B aka "RGB". So the flex from the white box goes: Vcc - Black core R - White core G - Green core B - Red core Easy enough to ditch the short white lead and go direct to the pcb with an extension cable. BUT the original short lead to the lights is done "properly" with the cable cores matching the RGB colours. Anyway, I just quickly tacked the extrusion up and pulled the 7-core thru the flexible conduit. Conduit inside the dwarf wall, along the side and round the back. Just coiled up in the bath recess at the mo. Tbh I'd like it dimmer and more "subtle": The conduit is slightly over length possibly. To be trimmed to suit the tile depth: Video to come! I tried one on the phone but the quality's naff so I'll do on the tablet later as it was too late last night. Of course it's all got to come out for tiling!

Done a lot of st/st, the ones on the left! I do have a couple sets of those Ed.

Funnily enough..... I'm just wiring mine alongside the bath up for a dummy run pre tiling. Think I'm going down with man flu so a bit of colour therapy might help. Got mine so far from here: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/mkshopuk/ The thing I would be hesitant about is the quality of the transformer. I will fit a reputable unit. This gives an idea of the extrusions available: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Lighting_Menu_Index/LED_Tape/index.html Will post a video later if I can convince small madam for a lend of her Samsung tablet!

@Ferdinand & the brickmaker, what do you think?

When it's all finished I'll be able to lie back in the bath and KNOW everything was piloted! ...in the same way that everything behind/under whatever has been vacuumed!

Snowing heavily in Kent (nr Sevenoaks) at the mo!

I put an 8mm clearance hole through my studs for 7mm concrete screws.

If the concrete screws I'm using don't take then it's game over in that hole. Sometimes I've gotten away with removing a spinning 100mm and replacing with a 150mm after drilling a bit deeper. Sometimes even that spins! Then it's either a hammer in fixing or Fischer resin stud. I've resin studded the studs where the wall hanging wc is going: It's great having opposing walls the same length now!

I've found using No Nonsense Spray Adhesive is a pretty quick way of keeping the VCL in place on dodgy old walls.

Home made SIPS fascinate me tbh. Seems just the thing if ever I do a garden room! Are there any good guides on making them yourself?

If everyone does it, it'll look like one long terrace!

I bought a longer 6mm x 200mm Bosch multi construction bit elsewhere for my 7mm concrete screws.

Had anyone else up the street done similar?

My battens are to the wall set on 5mm minimum packs to level. The gap between batten and wall is gun foamed. PIR between, VCL over the face of the battens. I used concrete screws, some of the "packing" is quite deep! Foam filled behind: BUT then I only have a vague idea of what I'm doing!

Draw it as a solid in AutoCAD; 1) EXTRUDE THE plan 2) Draw the "wedge" and EXTRUDE that 3) SUBTRACT wedge from the solid 4) Use MASSPROP to determine the volume.

Not forgetting the floor tiles..... ROUGH draft of 330x330mm tiles with a 5mm grout: I WAS hoping to do the "wet room" corner later on but not sure how practical that'll be!

FFS it's ME! There's really no rush!

See, this is why you get paid the big bucks! I was wondering how many little spring clamps I had. Cheers

Possibly. Was even thinking to try and plane off the opposing lips. That could go VERY wrong! I don't think it has to be "out" by much to end up looking cr@p & have a visible gap between the two quadrants. @Nickfromwales said to (2-part) mitre bond which I'm a big fan of but not sure of my ability to do this perfectly neatly over a +1.8m length. Mulling making a long jig so I maybe secure one piece and spray the activator along the length then stick the second trim on that starting from one end. Or do I use say a white CT1, Sika or anti mould silicon which would give me wriggle room to get the edges nice and butt AND fill any potential gap.

I know nothing about fixing frames like this but would resin anchors not be better? No expansion to crack the concrete etc. You've got to be organised though to do a run so as not to waste nozzles!