Onoff

Ref @Nickfromwales idea; the red dashed hole is where I've my flexible conduit exit and it's immovable tbh. I wanted it to line up with the light strip really: I need to make a decision asap ref what tile trims to get. White, plastic quadrant is a given as that's what SWMBO wants. But with an 8mm tile do I go for 8 or 10 I just don't know.....I've shown the 10mm one.

Pick holes? You're supposed to be making a brick!

Like it, should give more colour "wash" down the reveal whilst being better hidden. Think my hole's in the wrong place though..... To the CAD pc!

On the back of what Trumps proposing, to in effect punish US companies who move manufacturing (shares?) abroad etc, Ford are now NOT building a plant in Mexico. Means 700 jobs for the US. https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.wired.com/2017/01/fords-us-expansion-victory-trumps-trolling-tactics/amp/?client=ms-android-samsung UK utilities, railway companies??

Heat mat? http://www.iceandsnowsystems.co.uk/products/driveway-de-icing.html

I reckon you could sling down some generic 2-pack PU resin on existing, cleaned concrete and chuck gravel over it. Presume you need to "edge" the area to stop it spreading too far....line of silicon maybe? I guess fibreglass resin would work too. I wonder.....could you acid etch the concrete then pour floor paint and cover that in gravel?

I reckon you could sling down some generic 2-pack pu resin and chuck gravel over it.

So this maybe? I can bring 12mm ply down the front then infill with a 26x13.5 (aka 12mm) strip and some 6mm thick: Tbh that 16.5mm tile strip.....not sure.....if done well I guess..... Will mean sticking that back bit of tile up to the marine ply with something "thin" i.e. other than tile adhesive.

So...the 4-pin black plug cut off the LED light strip and put to one side. The IR sensor cut off of the white driver module and fitted inside the actual light strip itself using cores 1,2 & 3 of the 7-core extension. These 3 cores pass thru the pre-drilled hole in the end cap. Also coming out of the same hole (it's tight ) are the 4 wires that originally went to the 4-pin plug. These are soldered to cores 4,5,6 and the cpc. Heat shrink is the original colours - blk/red/grn & blu.

You mean in effect drop the pink bit lower?

Tonight's finicky fun! My eyes aren't what they used to be.....all those years of self abuse catching up!

Or.....get a reputed bodger.....

A bit involved but should work: (Ignore red circles).

Sort of: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Camera-Photo/Lawmate-Light-Switch-Hidden-Camera-Audio-Recording/B00GZN84UE

It's the only "longest" thing I'll win. Take that away and I've nothing left!

On site circa and one of the MANY accidents was a 110V circular saw being put down and running along the floor. Still going it went down an open lift shaft (no toe boards) and only stopped when hit the floor of the shaft. A couple of years before that had a guy go thru the board he was cutting and when the guard failed to return through the top of his thigh! Luckily only a shallow cut and he was back the next day. Leaky petrol can on a scaffold.....right by the access ladder. Guys went for breakfast, came back and fired up the grinder. Sparks ignited the petrol sodden boards between them and the ladder!

@Nickfromwales, I was going along these lines: But I think as you say it will definitely need a trim on that back edge of the 25mm tile strip. The x4 20x20mm (clear) plastic clips that hold the aluminium extrusion on, spaced over the 1850mm length will I think stand out looking from underneath. It almost needs another matching trim the same as the front...maybe so that 25mm bit of tile hides the brackets...

@Nickfromwales, can you trench with that DeWalt, i.e. do through housings? Betting you can and accurately too! Depth stop that you can lock? My 255mm Evolution chop saw is fine for rough stuff like stud work, sheds, roofs and conduit/scaffold poles (bathrooms? ). For precision stuff forget it. Tried a through housing and it must have been +/-3mm at the bottom of the trench! I have a radial arm DeWalt for through housing / lap jointing stuff but that's bench mounted up in the old stable and it's a trek. I once fell off a ladder with a leccy plane. I escaped serious injury but cut through the flex on the way down.....short lead on it now.....must replace.

My only "worry" is the aesthetics of my detail as in what I'll see when lying in the bath and whether it'll annoy me! At the mo, under the soffit of the recess I'm envisaging a stepped tile detail. More later if I can find some stainless panel pins!

The little white control box has 3 leads: - 12VDC in from a trannie / wall wart via a DC plug - 100mm of 3 core ribbon out to the IR sensor that's soldered on and covered by heatshrink. Looks like polarity's important. - 100mm of 4 core flex out to a 4 way female socket. - 4-way plug on the end of the LED strip. It's quite chunky cable tbh. Can't gauge the size until I cut it. See the little arrow on the black plug, you need to align with an arrow on the white socket and you CAN get it round the wrong way by the looks of things! What I'm playing with right now funny enough (bath can wait ) is extending these leads by about 3m. I've some 7-core 0.75mm2 which should take care of any v.d running from where the white box will be just outside the bathroom. Just the sensor might not function at that distance. I could have extended just the 4-core to the LED strip but want to lie back in the bath and fiddle with the remote and not have to faff pointing up at the ceiling, behind me etc or hidden in a cupboard. Will aim to slip the sensor INSIDE the LED channel behind the cover. Should be easy to replace too.

A "mate" of mine rents his old flat to two 21 year old blonde Swedish girls who bat for the other side. For THEIR safety he's installed IP cameras in smoke alarms, clocks and fake PIRs. Is "he" breaking the law? Seriously: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/crime/11622935/Should-you-install-CCTV-outside-your-home.html

OK then specifically eBay item 291361247328 to this spec: I already had a suitable psu. Set it up how you like with the remote, pull the plug and plug back in and same settings come straight on.

The screws.....on the window wall the boards sit on 45x45 battens that are packed 5mm to 100mm off the original walls...they're that "out". All to square the room off! I went ott with the screws for rigidity. The bit over the sink.....just got carried away! Yep the 2G is for a shaver socket. SWMBO was adamant she didn't want two things; a shaver socket or a bathroom cabinet. Go figure! Tbh the shaver socket will only be for leccy toothbrushes as I use mains clippers (occasionally) and the lad wet shaves. EVEN objected to that! The 1G is for heated mirror pad. 20mm galv tube down to the 2G then across to the 1G. Shaver permanent live / pad switched, both off the lights. Both isolated outside the bathroom along with the bath pump, single room MVHR, body dryer etc. All in tube back to the new cu.....eventually......doorway to move elsewhere.....cu to move etc.

At expansion gaps I've always resin fixed rebar into one slab and Denzo taped the other half of the bar where it goes into the adjacent slab. Allows expansion but limits the joint going out of level.

If anything like us you'll be seriously overprotective of the first.....then neglect the second. With the first one every noise is someone breaking in to steal them. With the second that bang/creak will just be the 2/3 year old going downstairs which is fine 'cos it knows how to turn the tv on! Makes them far more self sufficient!