Onoff

Doing all this and SHE still wants f***ing WHITE PLASTIC tile trim!

So...the plan is that these lengths of Hep2O PB will "pivot" up and down to feed the taps and allow their removal:

Actually known as the "Halfroom"

Half a dozen Pex-Al-Pex adapters came in the post today so I've run the towel rad feeds. Going to insulate them before I concrete. Christ knows how tight you do these elbows up? Being built like Burt from The Big Bang Theory I have a habit of breaking things! (It's Doom Bar btw).

Half a dozen Pex-Al-Pex adapters came in the post today so I've run the towel rad feeds. Going to insulate them before I concrete. Christ knows how tight you do these elbows up? Being built like Burt from The Big Bang Theory I have a habit of breaking things! (It's Doom Bar btw).

No I didn't fill it in the end. The cavity is so compromised by debris anyway..... I'm just insulating as best as I can that wall with PIR. Even that's grief as to square the room off I'll end up with 50mm in the window corner tapering to over 100mm where the wet room corner is.

Well they fit down the adapter a treat! Guess the spare conical rubber washers are if you have tap tails that are slightly countersunk?

The Ford Probe was NOT a particular success in the UK. The rumour in car circles, though downplayed by Ford is that it was down to the name as in essence the car was a platform shared with Mazda and should have done well. It seems that in the US the name Probe conjures up images of NASA and space exploration. Over here it's something a doctor shoves up your ars.....

The manual for the Asus A68M Plus mobo here, page 6 ref memory: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketFM2/A68HM-E/E9808_A68HM_Series_Manual_Print_vendor_only.pdf?_ga=1.142550322.1682123451.1481818172 For BEST results you ideally want to run the DIMMs (dual in line memory modules) in matched pairs. It should work OK mixing say a 1333MHz & a 2333MHz but it'll likely "under clock" the fast one to run at the lower one's speed. I've bought extra RAM and it's integrated fine. I'd get the pc then run it and download Crucial's or MrMemory's (I've used them both) memory scanner. It'll interrogate your system, find out what you have and give options of what best to fit. It'll of course give you the exact memory spec so you can then shop around. http://uk.crucial.com/gbr/en and/or https://www.mrmemory.co.uk/scanner/microsoft-windows

Anyone used this? http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p38941?table=no Seems a very reasonable price for a top brand. Sticks underwater too like CT1apparently.

I've worked in that area before :

Comparing the processors the AMD does well up against the i7: http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-vs-AMD-A6-6400K It's DDR3 memory, two memory slots. Theoretically uppable to 32GB (about £200 for two 16GB sticks) or 16GB with another 8GB stick (about £50). You could go up to 2133MHz memory tbh - its only 1600MHz comes with it. If he'd be happy with it... Beer? FFS how many do I owe YOU?

So he's hankering after DDR4? Right let's recap: 1) The ORIGINAL pc you were looking at: £649.99 from Argos. Zoostorm Evolve, i7-6700 / 16GB of DDR4 (can be upped to 32GB), 3TB HDD, Windows 10, 250W psu, ASUS H110M-R mobo This latest one you found: 2) £580 from Debenhams. Zoostorm Origin, i7-4770 / 16GB of DDR3 (that's it's maximum), 2TB HDD, Windows 8 So....a lesser machine all round (processor, RAM, HDD & OS) for £70 less. That's quite a lot more for your money for £70 tbh. You can expand the RAM to 32GB for a start on the pricier one. (That's a birthday present you don't have to think about).

Bugger! I've bought these 15mm x 3/4" to go on the taps: But they're too big diameter wise to fit down the adapter bosses unless I trim off the lugs: Or do I cut my losses and get these (again Hepworth) ones?

Purchase, hide, sup a beer & breathe sigh of relief. One down! You could go on forever with this and there'll always be something better just out of reach or that'll come up "tomorrow"! The mobo WON'T take DDR4 RAM but you could likely fit faster DDR3 than what it came with. My boy upgraded his DDR3 to HyperX. An i7 and 16GB of RAM will give him some respectable bragging rights amongst his mates. I've got off lighter with my "gamer": - Logitech G910 Orion keyboard - Logitech G930 wireless gaming headset - Samsung Evo 500GB SSD Spread over his b'day and Christmas. (All I wanted for my 18th was eighteen year old girls!)

This is the inside of that pc I believe: The GTX 1060 card should fit in the long slot (under where it says GIGABYTE). That's the PCIEX16 slot. The blanking plate on the back of the case just snaps out. A more powerful psu is a 4 screw swap over and would fit. You need to careful as you unclip all the leads from the mobo and drive and swap them over. The new graphics card will need a feed of its own from the psu. 4th picture along shows the 8-pin power connector on the card. https://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/nvidiageforcegraphicscards/nvidiagtx1060series/gtx1060gamingx3g.html?gclid=CPSe2oOhtdACFUk8Gwodpq0C_A So....you now have a hotter card - quite literally in that space and this all needs more cooling. The card does have bloody great fans on it but you can't have enough. In a small space it can only draw in so much air. More fans in the case will force in more air. You'll see on the grid area of the case tapped bosses - the fan(s) bolt to there. The pc you're looking at has a fan for the processor (cpu) but no case fan(s) though. If you can fit a new card, psu and fan you'll have no trouble swapping everything over to a new (<£25) case if desired. The new case will likely come with a fan(s). Btw it'll need regular & careful cleaning inside.

Ever noticed there's an "i" in SHITE?

If you buy that pc then simply put its not a gaming pc due to the on-board graphics....though it will play games to an extent. Let's be honest it's not a "looker" either is it? You need to add the cost of a graphics card and psu to the base price along with whatever case you choose. Can you get a dedicated "gamer" for say £250 - 300 over the base pc price? How do you feel about transplanting bits over to a new case? You can get a flash looking gaming case for around £20 if you shop around that come with fan(s) you can always add more. At the end of the day they're bits of pressed steelwork with some threaded bosses in. Pay more and the steel might be a bit thicker and the fan a bit quieter. For example: http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=152128784029&category=42014&pm=1&ds=0&t=1481715424247 or http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=252674996303&category=42014&pm=1&ds=0&t=1481715513749 Say £30 for a budget psu (Cit brand etc). I would say it's a good enough basis so buy it if you're going to before it's too late!

Anyone taking advantage of the cheap deals on these be aware there might be an ulterior motive to shift them. With the new "any way up" USB-C connector becoming more common you might end up having "old" sockets when they bring out power sockets with USB-C ports rather than USB-A as they are at present:

Have a read here. All about turning that machine into something more suited to gaming: https://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20160301050237AAtipVm That mini tower form will make cooling properly for a big graphics card an issue. There likely won't be the space. As the link says needs extra fans etc.

This appears to be the mobo according to the link in my following post: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4713#ov Look on the plan view picture of the mobo and it appears to have 3 expansion slots: - the long PCIEX16 slots - the two short PCIEX1 slots This assumes it is in fact the correct mobo.

Slowly does it... The slab broke out quite neatly so I'll be able to get two runs in though might have to chop the Polypipe tray a bit. A bit of scrap pipe in just to gauge things but looks like the elbows will fit fine. Then sleeve the pipes and make good!

I was thinking not to add any more heat under the bath for the sake of the pump motor.

Just out of interest, if you grind those bricks straight and level (where the lead's going) would you then seal them with something to prevent spalling?

POV