Onoff

You can get leather effect ones too you know!

Less mess with M16...

Multi tool or make a jig & ROUTE the plasterboard so the shelf sits in the cut slot. Bit of sticky stuff on the back to the wall, job done! I'll get me coat...

I only glanced at the second picture in Barneys link and thought it was just a covered socket!

Now they look proper fugly IMHO. I like this idea though: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/Varilight_Freestyle/index.html

I don't think S'fix do the spare resin nozzles but T'station do.

GS108 vs 208 https://community.netgear.com/t5/Unmanaged-Switches/GS108-vs-GS208-vs-GS608/td-p/1053520

3/4" marine ply discs cut. Will be glued and clamped together to make bath feet: I KNEW IT was worth hanging on to those 1/4" BSW bolts years ago!

Succumbing to a bit more fiddling I finished it off: Plugged it in and got the "red flashing light of death". https://www.flickr.com/photos/122042403@N05/shares/dF31NS

I was pleasantly suprised at how solid feeling my lining came out. No apparent "compression" problems at all. It's all as firm as. Mind you I'm using actual insulated plasterboard. The insulation seems denser than that in Celotex. You'll have to bond your plasterboard to the (foil face?) of the PIR, with what I don't know.

Giving up with this! The original pcb has various notches along its edges which the new one doesn't. The notches fit around "pegs". I've started to Dremel notches into the board but am exposing tiny copper tracks. The other option would have been to get rid of the pegs. But then I'd be worried about it locating properly. For another tenner I could have bought a clone I know works!

Was just finishing it when at 10.20 the phone rang. Had to go and sort a main switch in a cu for a friend.

Yep, I just tinned the iron with a blob of 60/40 against the hard stuff and got there in the end.

A genuine Makita BL1830: The new board's reference: High temp solder used on the original terminals, I struggled with a 25W iron. Once desoldered it looks like this, still attached by this ribbon cable affair: Underside there's what is the temp sensor on the pcb stuck into the casing with white compound: The new boards temp sensor is on the top side of the pcb so won't embed into the case like the original. No instructions with the new board btw. Assuming I should ditch the ribbon cable as it only went to the old board. Again I'm guessing it goes something like this, reds together, black on it's own, white wired sensor stuffed down the front: The indent for the board screw is imo, slightly in the wrong place and puts the whole new board a bit off kilter. A bit of Googling on this methinks.

I did mess around a while back having a BT Home Hub 3 one side of the house plugged into the phone line and then a Cat-5 from that to another Home Hub 3 I got when someone upgraded. Gave me 4 wired points and extended the wireless too. Not as simple as plugging together i.e a bit of typing and messing around with settings but it worked. You will often find easy to follow instructions on using one make of router with another like this. https://community.virginmedia.com/t5/Networking-and-wireless/Extending-WiFi-range/m-p/3044131

To the soldering iron!

I've a TP-Line Wi-Fi over mains to one room. It does of course take up one port in the router. http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/tp-link-tl-pa4010kit-av500-powerline-kit-n20nr I also use a wireless extender. Just looks like a mains adapter and plugs in anywhere.

With or without sanding the end of the 15mm chromed pipe the Hep2O push fit elbows pull pretty much straight off with little effort. Think again on that... Going to play with the bath instead now!

I've heard the backup service offered on LG tv's is appalling. MVHR would I know be a different arm.

Chromed copper and push fit fittings..... I need to test my run to the towel rad before I whack all the plasterboard over it for good. There's 4 elbows that need testing along with the Pex-Al-Pex pipe. If I link the two chromed rad tails like this with 15mm push fit elbows and a length of pipe it'll give me a loop. I'll cap one end a stick the hose / gauge on the other like I did for the UFH loop: Will the push fits blow off the chrome?

Erm....reaches for the pen and pencil... You ever thought of doing this for a living?

In advance of the mass of tiling questions to come... Stick the trim on with mitre bond, I get that, but how do you keep it dead straight when doing so? Hold it against a long level?

...where X = the original thread content Y = the degree it's veered off And so on...

I wonder if there's an algorithm that could be used to show how far off track a thread veers.....or would it be represented by a formula?