Onoff

Like a knife through butter!

Presumably you could do similar with WC pans and soil pipe runs?

& a bodger den magically appeared!

Rat City! 😂 I'd just do supports round the edges and where 4 pallets meet. If concrete piers have a bit of DPC on each one. Leave enough height to stick a ferret / Jack Russell underneath! Is the plan to insulate the floor somehow?

Is that the one with Patsy Kensit?

My mate in California built his shed on concrete piers: https://www.flickr.com/gp/122042403@N05/w34FF0rf63

Are you intending to use whole pallets as a floor or just for the walls?

Aside from any weed membrane you want a damp proof membrane on top of your blocks, then your pallet shed. We anchored a 4x2 wall plate around our slab perimeter then screwed the pallets to that when we did my nephew's pallet shed: His slab had a DPM under it. The wall plate then sat on a DPC abovevthr slab edge. The DPM got folded downward and clad over. You'll then of course need a "floor" atop the DPM or it'll be a bit slippery! Paving slabs are an option or even pallet wood. You could lay some insulation under it too. Ideally any timber wants to be 6" above ground level. He was going to grade/lower the dirt around the shed but hadn't gotten around to it last time I was there.

Talk to @pocster, he's an expert on ring cameras.

Would have been the black Mondeo the other day or the blue Pug this morning!

I'd be getting a laser or water level and transferring the existing level to a fixed datum point(s) on the wall of the new extension. As in before the floor is built up. I'd not lay the floor in the extension until I'd knocked through.

I read delinquent in there and have Ford Capris...

Just get it right! There's a ramp up from my dining room to the lounge. Previous owners built the lounge extension then knocked through to find they were about 100mm out! Same with the bathroom that floor was originally 60mm too high. There's a thread on here somewhere where the same thing happened on a big extension.

As an aside the HIVE cameras we bought to keep an eye on my Dad / his house, when he got ill, go offline in 2025. They weren't cheap either! https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/news/2022/07/hive-to-axe-its-cameras-over-the-next-few-years--meaning-they-ll/

Bedec Barn Paint? I've used it in satin black, amazing coverage and seems to do the job.

Don't they come with a lifetime guarantee, to be wrong forever?

I bet £200 worth of your electrical energy was generated by alternative fuels. Keep it.

As said I don't do FB. I'm on there as in joined to try and get on a 3D printing group and in fact have only one "friend" on there - the bloke who suggested I join the group. Never used it since. Just looked at that Poppy Calouri and could find no post from her on 25 Feb 23 ref her dad?

I don't do FB unfortunately.

I'm in Kent and might be able to help. Where in Kent roughly? I've three uPVC doors / frames here I bought cheap, s/hand. Need to double check which one I need to use. They all I think open out with the hinge the other side to your pictures.

I'd read the hot air gun was a bit pants and from the quick "holding against the hand test" last night, might agree. However, that was with a non genuine, clone battery, not fully charged. All I want it for is the odd bit of heat shrinking, on a roof where I'd otherwise have to run a lead. It adequately did the job on a bit of heat shrink last night albeit took longer than say my Bosch 230V would have done. I'll report back on that. Be interesting too, to use outside in near freezing temperatures. Had problems in the past trying to use low wattage soldering irons in that situation. As for the contact blade plastic block things they're ten a penny on eBay, AliExpress etc. For example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384280706764? I print mine, dead easy with 1mm copper for the blades. There's plenty of designs on Thingiverse etc. The tricky ones to get hold of are the sprung "finger" contacts that engage with these blades hence my salvaging them from dead batteries. Looking forward to trying the nibbler on sheet metal. In the pipeline is an 18V LXT to Bosch as I've just been given an old 24V SDS drill. Supposed to work well.

The "Mak2Par" Makita battery to Parkside tool adapter is done and works. We'll call it the prototype as I'm not 100% happy and will thus make some tweaks for the next one. So a PETG adapter to my own design. The supported side is a bit rough but that isn't seen as it's against the Parkside tool. Changed from the original PLA filament. The connectors are salvaged from dead, clone Makita batteries and engage with the tabs underside the Parkside tool. The battery tabs where they come through: Some 1mm copper tabs to connect to the Makita battery: Putting it all together with 14AWG silicone wires was a bit of a fiddly pig! See how the + & - cross over. I had to heat the copper tabs and push them into the PETG. The plan was a screw on cover plate to go over everything. You can see the 10k resistor that connects T of the tool to negative. Without that it won't work. I'll revisit this detail and allow some more space. With the adapter on the nibbler even fits in the box still! Will put some video links up later showing it working on both a 20V Parkside hot air gun and nibbler.

I did similar and used two BT home hubs, Home Hub 3s I think they were. One as the main router then the other as an extender. Works for other makes. This gives the gist: https://owenkelly.uk/bt-hub-extender.html The latest BT router we have gives better coverage so the 3's are consigned to the "might come in useful one day" box.

The relocated PSU all fires up as it should on the new connector: New, bigger fan is quieter. Haven't properly fixed the IEC connector on the base section yet: 12V wires just stuffed through where the duct will go when the enclosure sits atop. These will get tidied up:

PM me where you are roughly. I might know someone off the MIG welding forum.