Onoff

You could fill with yellow grout?

Is the gap at the bottom higher than one of those subway style wall tiles? It looks it from the first picture. If the gap is higher then what clearance would you have if you were to put a row of tiles at the bottom? You don't really want a "huge" gap there. The bottom row of tile's height should be a bit less than a tile's height allowing each one to be trimmed to suit the floor as aforementioned above, with a 1mm gap between bottom tile and floor. The suggestion to have a plinth makes me wonder if the tiles were started too high.

I'd say if it sticks out it's a plinth. Ledges hold water, collect dust, mould etc.

You leave the gap at the bottom slightly less than a tiles height. (I screwed up btw, should have had a full tile at the bottom then wouldn't have needed those silly rips up at the ceiling): You then place the bottom tile where it's going but flipped on its long edge. Mark the cut line. Cut to that line less any spacer width. When you flip the right way it should fit perfectly with a nominal 1mm gap at the bottom. You cut the bottom tile like this to accommodate any undulations with the floor. Once stuck on remove the (yellow) packs. Force clear CT1 into the 1mm gap and baby wipe off. Finish with a bead of silicone you can replace when it gets grubby. My tiling is sh!t but I know the concept.

Total bolloques!

Just build a new whatever. If they look from the air they'll see that it appears you've re-roofed the building that was already there.

Rebuild it to look like a 40' shipping container!

Likely tidier than the inside of my house. There's a couple on here who could attest to that

Needs tat to make it homely imho. Just shout if you need acres of poor quality shelving adorned with knick-knacks, covered in a layer of dust. Ditto ornaments that can't be gotten rid of because so and so bought it for Mum 60 years ago. That and her ever growing collection of cardboard boxes... 😉

Bee Gees?

I was more worried about any cleaner affecting the heat exchanger in the boiler which may be aluminium? Apparently BG once did a "power cleanse". This is where they close all the rads and run the flushing rig just on the flow & return pipework. Different so they say to a "power flush" that does the pipes and each rad. Sounds complete BS to me. I'm not getting involved I've decided.

How easy is it to power flush the CH pipework connected to a modern gas combi / condensing boiler? I can get the rig from work and have successfully done my own oil boiler / single pipe CH system. Got to be honest, anything gas boiler related scares me. BG want £900 or a Local Heroes guy £700. Cheers.

Simple Jack, remember him @pocster, big lad?

You do know you can get plugs from specialist shops?

I've just had a flow rate test...

Where are the Punctuation Police when you need them? 😂

Aren't copper pipes dampened from the inside? I'll get me coat.

That's just BS! Either learn to weld & do woodwork or find a tame, local fabricator.

It's fine I'm sure other than standing out like a sore thumb and getting grubby! Is it UV rated? Could always get a camo sleeve! 😂

You'll need an M6 brass nut, bolt and two star washers to attach a suitable ring crimp to the banjo. With the Pirhana nut you just attach the ring crimp to the screw on the side! From there take an earth fly lead and connect to the other 3 earths. The loop of hopefully black flexible conduit, that comes down, round and enters under the box, need to make sure it can't get water into it at the light end, above and act as a hose route into the box!

Whereabouts in Kent (roughly)?

In no particular order: Don't know your set up but afaic tell the earth's all need to be connected in that box. Then banjo / Pirhana nut to the earth point both ends of the feed cable via a little fly lead. Pirhana nuts are just more "bitey" than traditional gland nuts and brass banjos. You get better earth continuity, less chance of loosening over time. Traditional: Pirhana: They've a smooth or toothed side that'll bite into the box, in the case of a painted metal box the teeth will strip the paint to ensure contact with clean metal. Toothed side: Smooth side: This is an external SWA gland. From the left, the black rubber washer squashes onto the black, pvc outer sheath of the cable. The two rings I'm pointing to. There's only one per assembly but it must go on a certain way or you will struggle to get the armoured strands onto the cone to the left and do everything up: (Just realised I left the rubber boot out of the picture. PUT THE BOOT ON THE CABLE BEFORE YOU ASSEMBLE THE GLAND! 😂 Cut the pointy end off with a sharp Stanley a bit at a time until it's a nice tight, but still slides over the black sheath). As for plastic conduit glands. At the very least and still "wrong" if fitted on top you get glands like this. There's no proper sealing. Even if you glue the conduit in and use a rubber sealing washer it's naff on top. My neighbours was all done in this and the box was swimming: On the flexible conduit side I like these. They just push on and teeth grip the conduit. There are other types where the gland is hinged, folds around the conduit and snaps shut: Just realised why I didn't finish my gate box, didn't have a Pirhana nut! I have now and still need to finish it... I go out of my way to enter from the bottom: (I've got miles of old red sleeving still, I'm using it up!) I plastic primed and spray painted the box lid:

Crap photo but here's one I haven't finished earlier... A plain IP6X box I drilled only in the bottom. Has one incoming armoured that supplies power to lights via the WAGOs. Bottom right is the photocell wires. .

Yes but don't they only have 2 entries on a side? Think you'd need to go up to the 1210 to get 3.

Ref a new box you can get them with "indents" already in, to aid drilling you should find a 20/25mm holesaw lines up just right and doesn't wander. I'd get a box similarly sized to what you already have. Ditch the silly rubber grommets that come with it and fit proper glands. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/junction-boxes/3659273 I'd terminate all the wires into WAGOs.