Onoff

Out of interest do you understand how a traditional CH/DHW (like mine) works? Not a bad idea going Baxter Basics if you want to understand these things. One thing seeing a drawing...

Well that's the 18th passed today. Now if I could only blow my own trumpet...

Chuck an occupancy switch in? No noise at all.

Tbh I don't want to be contaminating the new rad and loop. Should be getting a manifold early Feb! Need to finish the tiling, get the sanitary ware in and working then convince SWMBO I need to dig up build back up the complete floor in the stairs room to run ducts for all future UFH loops!

Don't know. What I can't get my head around with UFH is where it "gets it's cold" from to bring the boiler temp down to something more acceptable to the loop. Or is it that the hot is restricted to that loop by adjusting individually? Do all the loop "returns" just common up?

Thanks all. Back to the main issue as I see it: The boiler is set at 65 deg. As is then the radiators run at 65 deg. If I run that through the coil in the cylinder it'll transfer the heat to the water in the closed system which I assume will get to 65 deg. That's fine to feed the towel rail directly. But the UFH loop? From reading I believe the temperature presented to the UFH loop needs to be in the region 35 to 45 deg? I'm worried if I feed it at 65 it could be detrimental to the slab, tiles etc. So say I fit a manifold, how would that work, one side gets 65 deg and the other goes back to the buffer? I don't get how it reduces the temperature from 65. Cheers

Does the header tank need to be fed a supply via a ball cock like "usual"?

I wonder if it's worth incorporating UFH pipes even if you have nothing to feed them yet...? Cheap and easy to do. Just need to bring the ends of the loop out somewhere convenient.

Ta. I want though the UFH and towel rail at two different temperatures I'm thinking.

Wish I'd thought of that one!

Thinking I can probably adapt the wet tile saw to cut this tile in place... How's the roof / drive going btw?

Maybe add a 2 port valve to stop the UFH loop getting too hot? Have it cutting off via the floor stat?

Cheers. A daft question I'm sure but do I have to have a header tank? Could I maybe treat the water in the cylinder as a semi sealed system, add inhibitor and put an AAV on top of the cylinder? Is there really any need for an expansion pipe? Rough sketch shown less the manifold. As the sketch stands I'm thinking there's an issue as the UFH loop would run too hot i.e. at the temp of normal rads. Appreciate it's bit off the wall.

If only I'd have known... ...I'd still have made my own probably!

You've got to "entertain" something if serious about heating the place properly I'd have thought.

160mm pir insulation I'm guessing minimum?

First I've realised that you've no proper CH! So what you've open fires and electric heaters? Guessing a back boiler and buffer tank?

Me, plan??? Looking at it now. Seriously there's always been an interim plan to tap off the existing antiquated system.

Not yet connected up!

Bear with me as this might sound a bit mental! Current downstairs heating is a 50 year old 3/4" nominal bore system. New bathroom refurb has x1 UFH loop in the floor and a second loop purely for a towel rad. I don't really want to connect a manifold to the old single pipe system and get it and the new loops crudded up. Now for the mad bit... Thinking that as I've a spare copper cylinder I could divert the single pipe CH through the coil of the cylinder. Then fill the cylinder and pump that via a manifold around my two loops. I've an in slab stat I could use to control the pump. Thus I'd keep old and new systems separate. An aside is that the room where the "buffer" cylinder would be sited would get some heat from the cylinder as there's no heating there at the mo aside from the single pipe across the floor that I'd look to tap off of to feed the cylinder. Thinking it'd also maybe put less strain on the oil boiler. So stat calls for heat and pump simply circulates some hot through the loop (s). But would it be too hot as there's no blending? ??? Cheers

So to cut this tile...smooth diamond disc or maybe a multi tool blade? Wet (plant sprayer?) or dry? Cheers

I wouldn't pay £20K for this, too many mistakes of which I'll catalogue later in all their gory detail. Still, good practice for when I do the main bathroom! (Kidding! There is the en suite to do though).

It's got 3 horizontal lines of the stuff Tbh I'm thinking I could file it against a clamped timber.

@Nickfromwales......HEEEEEELP! This removeable bath end panel is trying me. Don't know where I went "out" but to get it to look near right I need to take a sliver off the tile up to the blue line: Trouble is that tile is stuck to the ply with CT1 Grab 'n Bond. Was thinking to maybe clamp a timber on and run the diamond disc along it? Cheers

SWMBO's another weird one who wants all the wcs the same? Guessing once she's perfected her cleaning technique on one it makes sense...