Onoff

"Bear with" plus your wonderful sketch reminded me of...

I've ripped this all out. Really deep, it was still tacky underneath: Not a nice look where the floor and wall meets. Not sure whether to re do in wide grout? The 12mm bead around the perimeter. I've done all except the bath sides: The best bit, behind where the sink is going done in Mapei cement grey. Again proof with practice it can be done perfectly! Close up, right hand mitre joint. The vertical done in Forever White...itself not great: The left hand mitre joint. Vertical joint is just grouted: Can't of been paying attention here: And I shouldn't have gone back over this bit: Thinking to rip all the grey out and use a smaller bead. It'll mean ditching the CT1 underneath and relying on the Mapei grey on it's own. Also do it in better light and shorter sections at a time.

I read somewhere that the residue from soda blasting is sold to the railway companies in the US and spread to keep track side weeds down. Over here in the UK nobody wants to buy the "waste" it seems. I tried back in the Summer the washing soda residue from my electrolysis rust removal tank on our patio, not sure if it did anything tbh.

Wet & Forget, Patio Magic etc?

You could join and find someone local on the MIG welding forum: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk This is the site of one of the mods there: http://www.paul-holland.com/work.html

Having worked with a fabricator who's TIG work is sh!t hot for over 30 years I think I might! Mate's rates etc... Chequer plate might actually aid in masking any distortion. I'd fold on the 4 sides and only weld there. I'd bed it down on 5 Star grout maybe.

Needs TIG'ing for sure. Not sure how whatever mortar will adhere to the st/st. How about have the st/st exposed and making from chequerplate? Would need to be 316 and the welds acid cleaned. Pathology table anyone?

Got a link? What are they called? ...other than "the blades from my old Mum's mincing machine"?

Lidl had some silicone removal tools in the other day.....wish I'd bought them! A couple of points: To be fair it's a silk purse / sows ear scenario, some of the issues. The Fugi kit will not fix sh!t tiling! Last night I had the beginnings of a headache and shouldn't really have started it. Using that Forever White with its strong vinegar smell and the headache just got worse. I messed up in the pockets at the lower corners. Should definitely have done the verticals first then worked from the corner out (like the instructions say) to do the horizontals. Not sure though at what point to do this, when the vertical is just skinned, fully set etc? Where the floor tiles meet the bath sides it's less than 90deg. None of the tools in the kit fit as they're all for a 90deg angle. Around the perimeter elsewhere, where wall meets floor I've ended up with a 12mm fillet of Mapei cement grey. Started with 10mm but the CT1 I used first was showing through in a few places. Then messed up a section where I tried to go over it again! I blame 3 nights off the beer... I'll take a fresh look tonight and maybe think about ripping it all out and starting again. Thinking to take the clear CT1 out even at the wall /floor junction to end up with a thinner grey bead only. Saying that the bit I enthused about first, around the bath, in Forever White is near PERFECT and can stay.

No.

Well... Seems like I hate applying silicone more so than tiling and am about as crap at it too! No pics, can't be ar$ed.

No. Sheds don't do it. http://www.ct1ltd.com/contact-us/?target=distributors#ct1-norge-as

@Nickfromwales, would Multi Solve applied and left to do it's thing eat Lizzies silicone residue she's trying to get off?

The wife and I used a Geocel silicon eater years ago to remove the stuff around a bath. Small room, poor ventilation. Evil stuff. I got it in cut and it bled for days. The wife came on early I kid you not! Tried and failed to get the COSHH sheets for it.

There's something magical about the material these tools are made from, some ultra low friction silicone themselves I guess. Wet silicon just wipes off then leaving not a trace. Whatever it is it's both tough and flexible so much so that the edge forms against the tile and wipes off the excess with amazing ease. Very impressive in one of the videos where they wipe a rough tile clean of silicone with one of the tools.

I just read the instructions you posted...properly! Makes sense. "When working on corners, first start with the vertical wall grout lines and let them bond. Then proceed to the floor grout starting out of the corners in both directions".

As an aside I used isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to degrease the tiles, bath etc prior to applying the silicone. (Think in one of the videos they were using meths or acetone). Prior to this though it's real important to run your finger along and physically remove any lumps & bumps; tiny - snots of adhesive or grout, plaster etc or even a little smear of grout. It takes the tiniest bit to stop the tool as you slide it along. As it rides over the debris that reflects in the bead shape. A question; do I first do say the horizontal beads in the pockets, let them set THEN do the vertical beads so the wet vertical head sort of comes down over the horizontal one? Why hasn't @Construction Channel done a video on this yet? Too busy making newlywed, home movies I reckon!

"Mrs Patterson, you cheeky girl!"

I went 8mm around the bath.

Buy it. It's a doddle trust me. Don't ask me how it works. Somehow it magically removes the excess too. I need to heed @scottishjohn's advice though of less is more. I had to keep stopping and wiping the excess off of my tool so it pays to have plenty of bog roll handy and an open bin bag.

What size? The grout lines are based around 3mm spacers.....the kit has a 5mm tool.....

Now I've mastered this silicone malarkey... Do I do these joins with white silicone? And could I silicone these too wide grout joints? Cheers

Just remember nobody likes a smart arse! ? Seriously though a massive thanks for pointing me at the Fugi kit!

You mark on the floor/ceiling where your studs/joists are and only screw on the centreline. Another way is if you've any redundant windows, you can make permanent inspection ports...

"Des never regretted that £2K on the second hand digger!" ?