Onoff

This is the fixing kit picture on the Bernstein eBay ad. The "top hat" inserts seem longer than what I have:

The Berstein pan came with a decent 19mm ratchet spanner in the box!

Not a bad Grohe guide? https://www.grohe.co.uk/en_gb/our-service/installation-videos/install-wc-solutions.html

These fixing holes in the Bernstein pan seem rather large for the plastic inserts that came with the Geberit frame? Can't help thinking they should offer support all the way through the depth of the hole?

Learn to plaster?

Just had a tally up of what Geberit (mainly) bits I've left as I'm going to fit the wc next. Think I need another one of these... Hoping it's in the box with the other Geberit WC frame!

It's overflowing HOT from the header.

Went with the big st/st countersunk screws. On two of them I had to put flat round washers (BZP ) under the head so the st/st boss could move a little rather than the screw "centreing" it. Loaded the back of the boss with CT1 and screwed them down. Then CT1'd over the top of the bosses before pushing the rad on to the bosses and the chromed pipes. Out with the baby wipes! I'd deliberately not grouted this pipe in to allow for some movement when fitting the rad. I presume just grout it along with this one: Then clear silicon or CT1 these on?

Thanks all. The towel rad comes with M6x60 zinc plated, flanged coach screws. If I use them then i) I'll worry about them rusting and ii) they'll only go into the timber behind by about 20mm. As an aside there's masses of clearance between the screw and inside of the st/st fixing boss: I reckon then I should use these 6x80 A2 stainless screws: These of course are countersunk whereas the coach screws allow some "wriggle" room. Whatever the screws will be loaded with clear CT1.

"Bloody thing kicked in at 5am and sounded like I had builders in, nearly gave me a heart attack, had to switch it off so it didn’t wake the kids! I had a rant at (the ex), he has finally said book a plumber! " Trying to get her to at least try and bleed the rads before calling the plumber!

Paint for sure. Wire brush and Hoover the concrete to get any of the surface laitance off. You WILL have it and the paint sticks so much better with it gone. Darn sight more difficult to get paint to stick if oily. Divide the area into rough square metre boxes with some chalk. Dollop X litres of paint per square and go mad with a sacrificial yard broom. Job done.

No one would have believed in the last years of the nineteenth century that this world was being watched...

I went for a wall drain partly to keep the drain away from my UFH pipes. I was going to have a floor drain in the very corner but worried the trap could dry out due to heat from the slab. What clinched the wall drain was SWMBO wanting the corner mitred which effectively kicked the floor drain into touch. In an ideal world I'd have had the wall drain at the bottom of the mitred section (but wall drain is wider than the chosen tiles). Tbh I don't think the trap drying out will be an issue considering the time one child spends in the shower. More worried about how often I'll be taking the wall drain cover off to clean hair out of the trap!

I asked if it had been firing prior to today's efforts: "It was worse after today, but I also released the valve pump and let some air out as well... it’s still not coming out fast, but it is running at least"

It WAS firing I believe prior to her changing the actuator earlier today. I did offer to go over earlier.

Then another message she now has hot water back. I asked how: "I open a tap at the side, which I wonder if "the ex" closed slightly as it gurgled and then worked... still not firing heating but at least the water is coming out more than a trickle..."

She reckons it turns OK with the actuator off. Just messaged me that whatever she's done she now had no hot water either. I can see me going over there.

She keeps buggering about putting the acuator on either way. Seemingly it will but will only engage on the two lugs one way. Told her to put it on properly and diagnose from there. On the valve, port B is to the cylinder coil, port A to the rads which is correct. Reckons it's hot where red but cool where blue:

So white bit pointing down or up?

So you reckon this might be the wrong way around? Arrow is pointing up:

Seemingly so, yes. Overflowing out the side of the house to now and then. Getting her to check if the 3-port is the right way around. Seems her ex has had a go.

Pump has stopped leaking. She's been in the loft. Both header and cws tanks full and ball cocks working. Reckons loft is soaking wet with the smaller header tank "steaming". "Like a Turkish bath up there" she says. (It's a prefab, concrete ceilings so will take a while to come through if ever). Thinking pump gone u/s?

Bump...anyone? This way: Or this: Cheers

Gave her the new Drayton mid-port valve, she wanted to try and fit it herself. Fair play. Just messaged me. Reckons the bleed valve on the pump is leaking - she did undo it. She's just sent me this video. Sounds to me the system is running dry - but the pump bleed valve leaks? Suggest she checks the header tank ball cock?

Pretty sure the TRV is on the right way as in flow arrow to the rad. It was the ordinary valve on the left I was wondering whether it could go either way up.