Onoff

As an aside I used isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to degrease the tiles, bath etc prior to applying the silicone. (Think in one of the videos they were using meths or acetone). Prior to this though it's real important to run your finger along and physically remove any lumps & bumps; tiny - snots of adhesive or grout, plaster etc or even a little smear of grout. It takes the tiniest bit to stop the tool as you slide it along. As it rides over the debris that reflects in the bead shape. A question; do I first do say the horizontal beads in the pockets, let them set THEN do the vertical beads so the wet vertical head sort of comes down over the horizontal one? Why hasn't @Construction Channel done a video on this yet? Too busy making newlywed, home movies I reckon!

"Mrs Patterson, you cheeky girl!"

I went 8mm around the bath.

Buy it. It's a doddle trust me. Don't ask me how it works. Somehow it magically removes the excess too. I need to heed @scottishjohn's advice though of less is more. I had to keep stopping and wiping the excess off of my tool so it pays to have plenty of bog roll handy and an open bin bag.

What size? The grout lines are based around 3mm spacers.....the kit has a 5mm tool.....

Now I've mastered this silicone malarkey... Do I do these joins with white silicone? And could I silicone these too wide grout joints? Cheers

Just remember nobody likes a smart arse! ? Seriously though a massive thanks for pointing me at the Fugi kit!

You mark on the floor/ceiling where your studs/joists are and only screw on the centreline. Another way is if you've any redundant windows, you can make permanent inspection ports...

"Des never regretted that £2K on the second hand digger!" ?

I've done: -Hard core -Sand blind -25mm EPS -DPM -Polypipe panel -16mm pex-al-pex within panel depth -100mm wet concrete laid to screed rails

One alternative to a protective "polythene" layer over the pir (stops screed reacting with the foil face) is Poly Panels. https://www.tradingdepot.co.uk/polypipe-pb08576-ufch-floor-panel-1200-x-1000mm?tfrid=4c2ac8ed-6b49-4d94-9429-dc6a9adf3b36 I used them with a 100mm wet concrete slab. They act as a barrier to the foil, save on mix and make laying pipe a doddle. Here's a vid of me doing my bathroom: https://flic.kr/p/Ch8rXd My one reservation is the slab, even though it incorporates A142 mesh maybe feels a bit "hollow"? I'm used to I suppose a solid slab. Saying that, now it's all tiled etc it feels fine.

Is this for a new build as in whole house?

You'll be eating Easter eggs reading this thread!

I'll be picking your brains for sure if I get these 3 solar thermal panels repaired and up and running. My homemade 1m2 ST panel worked amazingly well so I'm a believer in the technology. 30degC ambient, over 80 at the output:

If you watch the video he references a shower tray with I think a foam strip between tiles and test? Dunno...need of decorator's caulk? Tbh I think a BIG enough bead would flex enough.

Isn't this to kill the bugs?

I think he was suggesting you might not want a "3 point" bead with the corner as the 3rd "face" where the main faces might move in relation to each other. I can see the mechanics of that. As an aside the curtain wall lads I know reckon you can have a silicone joint that's too thin. The building moves more than the thin bead can flex. Needs a MINIMUM thicknes. I've witnessed this a lot.

My understanding is that they are working hard to right previous "wrongs".

Sitting here watching the video. A couple of points: 1) He refers to silicon...it's silicone. Thanks @Ed Davies I think who pointed that out a while ago! 2) The use of "soapy water"... I see commercial curtain wall fitters use it all the time. (The lads who did over Waterloo Station had two labourers following them, one with a rucksack of full tubes the other carrying the empties). I'm talking joints on occasion where they cut the end off of the tube and use a box of 12. The key is to get enough onto the two sides with no gaps for the soapy water to get behind. The soapy water just aids removal. 3) He likes the square cut end as it aids forcing the silicone in. I agree. Simple mechanics. Others I'm aware will disagree! Best I have a practice!

Keep up, it's DONE!

I'll need it for all the flak!

I'm saving all my take away containers to build a system. Thread to be titled "Cheap Chinese Panels". .....I actually have hammered one flat. Surprising amount of good thick tin foil in them.....

What instructions? There's just a little card in mine about the blue & red things. I presume you use like this and drag towards you? Do I lubricate anything with soapy water? Do I empty the bath before siliconing around that or keep it full? Cheers

Went to Build It Live. Didn't see any integral blinds on the Internorm stand. Having a play with the big sliding doors and I'd say the Velfac ones were smoother and easier to slide than the Internorm. Upset the installers of my 2G windows though. Wasn't going to speak to them but they approached me: "Can I help you Sir?" "No thanks we've already got your windows fitted". "Happy with them?" "No!" It went downhill from there with me berating the surveyors for allowing too much clearance so the job runs smooth and the fitters for whacking 'em in with no foam or Compriband and covering everything up with trim leaving huge gaps. Give her her due she did say it was something their after sales would probably still address even outside the 10 yr guarantee.