Onoff

For neatness and getting it up out of the way of vermin I'd clip it and just drop down to each position. If ever you decide to add more lights the hole saw might "find" the cable if laid atop the soffit board! Makes if easier adding stuff if not clipped though.

A lot... As an aside I went into my new bathroom this morning at 4am. The newly fitted extractor vents to the soffit outside and has no back draught flappy thing. Fan not running but it was a balmy 13degC in there...no heat of any sort in there yet mind. Put your hand up by the ceiling and you can feel the cold draught. Don't know how long I can live with this "interim" solution! ? Can I get a back draught vent that goes in a soffit?

Trailing edge for capacitive loads as in LV trannies full of "electronics" and drivers for LEDs. The dimmers themselves have more gubbins in them. (Because of the higher component count one could argue more to go wrong). Leading edge for inductive & resistive loads. They rely on chunky TRIACS, DIACS etc. A resistive load for example a good old fashioned incandescent or halogen "bulb". Leading edge dimmers really only for higher wattage stuff so they don't like the lower power requirements of LED stuff. An inductive load being say a motor. As for Click Mode bits do you mean these? https://www.click4electrics.co.uk/click-mini-grid-modules-dimmers-c-328_518_713/

Mismatching the minimum load rating of the dimmer switch vs the total LED wattage is a common mistake.

My new keyboard foot printed by Jeremy, little video:

https://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/article/dimming-guide/

Received with thanks! They feel really resilient and bendy enough to squeeze in where they need to go. I'll need to pare/sand the pivots on them as I forgot them on the model! ?

I think you should be the leader...having had the most experience...henceforth known as Big Drip!

You and your twisted sense of humour! And with that the thread spiralled out of control...

Is that the Spanish stuff?

Yep, Celcon just being a brand.

Tell me more, like paint is it?

If doing a wet room without any screens then don't underestimate the distance water will spray from the shower. (Especially with kids who don't clean up after themselves!) I haven't got a former, instead I laid the floor to falls. Tbh the fall area could have been 1 tile bigger. Current area is approx. 1400 x 1400. No real issue at the moment to squeegee the floor & kick the towel round the floor. When we get older though and can't bend/balance...who knows!

A short spindle can work it's way too far into the handle - away from the lock or into the lock away from the handle. You can always insert a spare piece of spindle and operate without the handle using a small spanner or mole grips etc to check the lock action. I'm sad that I keep bits I take off old doors. Cut any new spindle to length in a vice with a hacksaw and file off the burr. (Or hold in moles and cut off with a small grinder if you're a bit deft at it ? ). Sometimes theres a grub screw that tightens into a V in the square bar, often it's just expected to tighten against the square bar and bite in. Check Amazon, Wickes even. Not sure if Screweys or TS do the bars. e.g: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Door-Handle-Spindle---90mm-Pack-of-2/p/112799 (As an aside you can find on some say bathroom door locks the square spindle is a smaller section).

Part M...400mm to the bottom of the socket, 1200mm to the top of the light switch. If you want to go 450 it's fine.

Have you just come back from The Plough? ? (Swmbo's vetoed the pile of skulls at the base of the pillars btw).

Stainless steel tile trim would give a very thin edge, maybe what I'm after.....expensive though. Stainless would match the bolts in the gate too and the planned mock hinges.

Git! Read the first line and was sitting here nodding at your wisdom.

Celcon type things.

As a "temporary" measure I weighted a bit of of dpm down on my flat roof. 4 years later these 9" blocks had disintegrated and I was shovelling them off.

A lot, in fact most "stone" panels on building facades get involved with are pre made off site then hung off brackets mounted on the concrete core. I like the idea of a sharply defined edge contrasting with the rough brick.

Flints..... I need to fill 4 recesses like this up with flints: (Ignore the foamed in brick). I have yet to knapp the flints. That's going to be fun! I'll be using lime mortar. But..... Do I: 1) Just lay them in like "bricks"? 2) Lay them in some sort of removable tray that I can lift into position, then how to fix? 3) Should I edge the recesses, a bit of brass shown but if I do I'd use stainless angle:

Erm...my fault. I must have forgotten to save after I'd done the edges! Never mind, nothing paring with a blade and some sandpaper won't cure I'm sure! Imports lovely to FreeCAD as an stl, not that it's necessary now:

Half the problem is the bodge people make of cutting the plasterboard, it all goes crumbly and they tear the paper holding everything together. Me being me I multi tool the pb then coat the cut edge with neat pva and let it dry. It does wonders for keeping the edges of the hole "together". Impractical where time is of the essence I appreciate! Before the multi tool I would use a sharp Stanley or even better a Knack knife and again pva. (I was taught to use a padsaw - never been keen).

I have plenty of copper to Hep2O, in for 20 years now. 4 stone ago they were accessible to me....